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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 6/9/2003 6:29:10 PM EST
I am putting together my first AR using an Eagle Arms lower and an A2 kit from Model 1. I chased all openings with drill bits to make sure they were all deburred. When installing the spring and pin for the bolt catch, it wedged in the hole and there is not enough spring pressure to push it back out. In trying to remove it I have managed to work it further into the hole as the protruding portion of that part is rounded and that makes it difficult to get a grip on. Can anyone recommend a way to get this part out short of taking it to a gunsmith? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Link Posted: 6/9/2003 7:00:31 PM EST
This has happened to me twice with RRA lowers and model 1 kits. What I did was soak the area in CLP or gun Oil overnight. The next day it should work itself loose or at the very least it should move freely. If that does not work then I would suggest that you drill the pin out a little and then use any easy out on it.
Link Posted: 6/9/2003 7:11:08 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/15/2003 12:29:37 PM EST by Homo_Erectus]
Check out [url=http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=160141]this thread[/url] for some ideas.
Originally Posted By azdude: I am putting together my first AR using an Eagle Arms lower and an A2 kit from Model 1. I chased all openings with drill bits to make sure they were all deburred.
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Just so you know for next time, drill bits make lousy deburring tools. They do, in fact, make very good "burring" tools. When aluminum lowers are machined, they're usually drilled undersize, then the holes are reamed to the final size and to remove the burrs left by the drills. Then they're anodized. By using a drill bit in the hole, you probably cut through the hard anodized layer and dug up some soft aluminum. In other words, if you left the hole alone you probably wouldn't be having this problem.
Link Posted: 6/10/2003 11:18:09 AM EST
Looks like none of the suggestions worked. I am taking my lower to a gunsmith today to see what he can do with it. Tough lesson to learn. Never trust that a part is going to fit correctly. Always test fit every piece before final assembly.
Link Posted: 6/14/2003 6:13:41 AM EST
I think that it's also a lesson about Model 1, I dodged the proverbial bullet by only buying a barreled upper with no bolt assembly etc. With the exception of barreled uppers their parts are fairly substandard on a regular basis. I reckon that makes me somewhat of a hypocrite seeing that my upper is Jim Dandy. I've run into many others thought who've had the same luck as you. I'm just one of the few lucky ones I suppose.
Link Posted: 6/15/2003 7:00:29 AM EST
How about heating the area VERY SLOWLY over an open flame? This should expand the hole diameter without effecting the hardness of the reciever.
Link Posted: 6/16/2003 3:54:55 AM EST
Are you just wanting to take out the roll pin? If so here's what I do. Get a piece of 3/8 round steel 6" long, take a allen wrench thats just smaller then the hole and cut the "L" or the small bent side of the wrench off. Tack weld or braze it onto the side of the 3/8 rod. just let the allen wrench stout about 1". Now you have a driving tool to get out the bolt stop roll pin. I use a allen wrench cause they are hardened on the outside and will take a beating before they break. Hope that helps. Rick
Link Posted: 6/16/2003 11:43:17 AM EST
Actually it wasn't the roll pin. It was the detent for the bolt catch. A machinist was able to drill a very small hole in it and pull it out without damaging or scratching my lower. It wasn't wedged in very tight as it was a slight friction fit but the spring behind it wasn't able to push it out. In defense of Model 1, they are sending me another detent (which I plan to carefully test fit!). Otherwise I am pleased with the overall quality of the A-2 kit I got from them. The rest of it went together without any problems and the upper is a nice tight fit on my Eagle Arms lower.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 7:32:40 PM EST
Next time this happens, put a little light penetrating oil on it and go get a cup of coffee. When you finish the coffe, come back, the oil has had time to work. Turn the receiver with the detent facing down, over a towel so the parts won't roll away, and rap the receiver with the plastic handle of a large screwdriver. A few taps will usually do it.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 7:38:05 PM EST
OK, you didn't listen, and skipped the soft towel. The parts rolled away into never never land on the floor somewhere. Go to Radio Shack and buy an old speaker magnet. Tape it to a broom handle or other likely wood stick. Without stooping over, simply pass the magnet over the floor, searching out the corners, and other odd places it can't possibly be. And usually you will find the part, the little screw, spring, whatever, stuck to the magnet. Hey, there's that set screw I couldn't find!!!
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