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Posted: 10/25/2004 8:42:55 PM EDT
I'm trying to decide what rail-mounted light I want for my rifle, and need to decide if I want the pressure pad or the tailcap-activated version of the Surefire light.

What are y'alls thoughts on this?

Also, if I buy one version, is it just a matter of buying a new tailcap to switch over to the other version?

Thanks in advance!
Link Posted: 10/25/2004 9:03:55 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/26/2004 12:11:54 AM EDT
Lumpy's way is probably the best way to go. The idea is to mount your light so your thumb can easily hit the activator. Position of the light is critical so you can get to the light when needed. The Z48 allows for momentary light by pressing the button lightly, or constant by pressing the button all the way in.
A high dollar work around would be to use the XM06 from Surefire. This gives you the momentary thumb button clicker and the option to use a tape switch as well. You could route the tape switch to the forearm if you normally use a vertical grip.
I like the use of a preasure switch on an OTAL. AD's with its light isn't the end of the world usually, but it is definately a device that that you would also like to use light etiquette -- even with an IR version depending on who your enemy is.
Fine tuning where you want your light is starting to make the GG&G unit look better to me. I'd like to see someone else release a better overall design though. Getting your thumb in the perfect spot can sometimes be a PITA depending on your hand size.
Link Posted: 10/26/2004 1:08:44 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Lumpy196:
Pressure pad cords SUCK ass, and pressure pads on any gripping surface are a light AD waiting to happen.

I have Z48 Click switches mounted on all of my Surefire Milleniums and wouldnt use anything else.

+1. I use Sw02 caps on mine though...

Link Posted: 10/26/2004 10:06:48 AM EDT
I prefer the clickie on the right side because my thumb can easily reach it when using the VFG. Tape switches are more prone to switch failure and accidental activation. My guarded clickie is prone to neither...

Link Posted: 10/26/2004 10:30:00 AM EDT
dude go with one u want the switches are like 100 dollors. so why waste extra 100 or just go with the xm switch so u have best of both worlds. then u can figure out which one u like better. im taking a chance with a m900a because some people dont like it. If this doesnt work i m going for tailcap with ggg flashlight mount at 6oclock that puts at 8 oclock instead of a 9oclock ones. i looks like best position. Even though i hate GGG, Only one who makes it.
here a link to picture

Link Posted: 10/26/2004 11:13:12 AM EDT
I prefer a clickie tailcap, though there are more factors involved: size of your hands, size of the vertcal forgrip, location of the light. It takes some experimenting to get your thumb and the tailcap button in the optimal position. IMHO, rail offset adapters put the light in a much more comfortable and easily accessible location. YHM makes several lengths that put the light at the 4:30 or 7:30 positions.
Link Posted: 10/26/2004 3:34:24 PM EDT
I prefer the remote switch on a vertical fore grip as my fingers aren't long enough to use a click in this position.
Link Posted: 10/26/2004 6:03:53 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/27/2004 7:51:49 AM EDT

Originally Posted By triburst1:
I prefer the remote switch on a vertical fore grip as my fingers aren't long enough to use a click in this position.

That is why YHM makes their wonderful angled dovetail mounts; and GG&G makes their Offset Light Mount.

3 Slot YHM Mount:

And still another view:

The 3 slot is around $20 (give or take a few bucks) and weighs around 2oz. If you use a scope ring to mount your light they have a 1 slot that is aroudn $15 and weights 1oz or so. There is also the longer 5 slot version for those of you with Scout Lights (or other lights with built in mounts).
Link Posted: 10/27/2004 9:05:09 AM EDT
I have to agree, w/ Lumpy. After having used the pressure switch on my millenium for about a week, it sucks. I hate having to hold it down for the light. I rather have a clicker and turns it on and off.
Link Posted: 10/27/2004 1:14:20 PM EDT
Here's a question slightly different application.
What about a light on a shotgun? I'm coming up to a decision for mine and no one makes a dedicated forearm for a Benelli M4 -- yet. I hear rumors from Surefire, but you know how that goes.
Unknown if I want to go with a forward grip on it or not.
I'm thinking this might be a shining example of when to use the Surefire XM06 tailcap. With the tail cap button, I tend to apply light preasure rather then clicking the light on or off. I find it gives me better control over my light ettiquette.
Recoil of 12 guage might make this un-doable.
If I'm forced to used mainly a preasure pad, I'm leaning towards mounting it on the left hand side of the weapon in a location that my thumb can manipulate the switch.
Link Posted: 10/27/2004 1:33:26 PM EDT
Tag, as I have been pondering the exact same thing.
Link Posted: 10/27/2004 2:37:02 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 12:51:21 PM EDT

Surefire makes a ring mount for the magazine tube that lets you use a weaver ring or a milenium series mount.

Its not on the websight but the part # is M12
contact C4iGrant or Brightflashlights for more info
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 1:05:50 PM EDT
On the Benelli M4 you also have this new option from Brugger and Thomet.

Cost isn't low on it, about $325


Right now I've got a Surefire M962 on my Remington 870's Surefire forend. I have found that concept works well. And I do run a verticle forward grip on the 870 so I can reach up and hit the c switch.
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 1:44:23 PM EDT
That is the rail system that I'm considering. I'm concerned how it attaches to the shotgun though. Would of been better IMO if it attached to the receiver. Best way would be if it replaced the Picatinny rail that comes with the shotgun and gave you an uninterupted rail from the end of the handguard lal the way back to the rear iron sight.
The Brugger & Thormet system looks better than the sidearmor unit. Both have benefits over each other unfortunately.
I'm considering the front half of the Side Armor unit , then using the Brugger & Thomet handguard rail system. I don't know how well the Brugger & Thomet will hold a zero. If it attaches the same way the plastic stock handguards do, I don't have much faith in it holding a zero. This doesn't matter for the light or the vertical forward grip (if I use one.) If I use an OTAL though, this will matter a great deal.
The big question is how to use a tail cap clicker or use preasure switches for both a light and a laser on this shotgun. Maintaining momentary light on a 12 guage is difficult.
I'm leaning towards using a XM06 on my light with a preasure pad routed to where my thumb will rest on the forearm. This will minimize my chances of an AD with light. Then, for an OTAL, have the pad on the opposite side of the forearm.
If I use a forward grip (Tango down,) I'll use a tail switch on the light, then use a preasure pad to the vertical grip for the OTAL.
Any ideas would be greatly apreciated.
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 6:41:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/28/2004 6:43:19 PM EDT by triburst1]

Originally Posted By C4iGrant:

Originally Posted By triburst1:
I prefer the remote switch on a vertical fore grip as my fingers aren't long enough to use a click in this position.

Have you ever tried putting the light on the left side of your weapon? Grab your vertical grip and rotate your thumb along the bore (on the left side). Your thumb will reach it with ease then. This is how I shoot with my VG and SF M962C...


No, its not that. I like my VFG at the rear of the rail, and the light further forward. It would be impossible to reach it with the thumb.

I use the tape switch on the back of my VFG where only the tip of my middle finger reaches it, so I have very good control with virtually no chance of a light AD.
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 7:03:07 PM EDT
I don't trust pressure pads or fragile wires.

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