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Posted: 9/28/2004 12:45:17 PM EDT
[#1]
Have to bump this to the top, I really need the advice.
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Posted: 9/28/2004 12:49:57 PM EDT
[#2]
Laying all headspace issues aside.........it can be done with some rubbing compound and a dremel tool.............good luck!
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Posted: 9/28/2004 12:52:46 PM EDT
[#3]
Like fiberglass rubbing compound? What kind of head on the dremel?
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Posted: 9/28/2004 12:57:29 PM EDT
[#4]
had this happen last time out with a new to me 16"a2. 1 time out of 400? was federal 193. i've heard the brass on this stuff is junk. haven't had the funds to wring it ou thoroughly and was thinking of trying the same. let us know how it works out.
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Posted: 9/28/2004 1:01:43 PM EDT
[#5]
Don't do this unless you can check the headspace after you finish polishing. The chamber on your rifle is built to very tight tolerances, and polishing the chamber will wear it down.
Unless you are having serious trouble with the cases coming appart, and you have the appropriate headspace gauges, don't start messing with your chamber. Also, if you are having a lot of case problems, take a look at your bolt and extractor, there might be something wrong there. |
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Posted: 9/28/2004 2:36:44 PM EDT
[#6]
someone on another thread sugested a heavily oiled chamber brush or .45 brush attached to a drill. This seems like it wouldn't interfeer with headpace. Opinions?
I think I'll try this, test it and if this doesn't work send it to a smith to polish the chamber. |
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Posted: 9/28/2004 5:11:42 PM EDT
[#7]
A polish like Flitz or Simichrome won't take off any metal.
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Posted: 9/28/2004 5:16:32 PM EDT
[#8]
Are we talking chrome lined or unlined?if its chrome lined chamber dimensions might be tight.
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Posted: 9/28/2004 5:37:58 PM EDT
[#9]
btt.
TG |
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Posted: 9/28/2004 5:40:02 PM EDT
[#10]
I did mine and used Flitz and a .38 caliber pad (can't remember the name it's those white cotton type tubular shaped things) by hand no drill. I used a cleaning rod and stuck it in till the shoulder shaped the end then marked it so I would be sure not to polish too far into the chamber and screw up the shoulder.
I did mine by hand because I did not feel confident using a drill and it didn't take long before all of the scratch marks were out maybe 5 minutes of real polishing action. I used flitz cause it doesn't cut like other polishes do and it worked well. I would make sure to mark the rod so that you dont go too far though and screw up the shoulder of the chamber. Good luck. bosifus |
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Posted: 9/28/2004 5:56:36 PM EDT
[#11]
Polishing the chamber.................................is that what the kids are calling it these days.
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Posted: 9/28/2004 7:28:41 PM EDT
[#12]
I've read through this thread, and the other one about rims being ripped off, and I still can't figure out the nature of your problem. Could you describe, preferably in detail, the conditions leading to the failure, type of components, ammo, parts, etc. As far as actually polishing the chamber, I would hold off for now until the ARFCOM hive mind can diagnose the problem. Figure out why its doing that before attempting repairs, and if it is indeed a rough chamber, I would see the manufacturer of the barrel about it.
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Posted: 9/28/2004 8:13:13 PM EDT
[#13]
In mine the place on the rim where the extractor meets it is ripped off. I have to clear it with a cleaning rod. Usually starts after about 20-30 rounds, gets more frequent as I shoot. Doesn't mater what ammo, mill surp SA stuff, UMC, Wolf, Q3131A.
Going back to the manufacturer isn't an option on this one. |
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