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Posted: 3/30/2006 12:18:22 PM EDT
I have a RRA entry tactical that has a trigger that brreaks crisp but at 12 pounds. Can I correct this with springs? Also to shoot to poa I have to have the rear site almost all the way to the left. Is this normal? I am a new owner and in search of knowledge.

Mike
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 12:42:32 PM EDT

Originally Posted By techcas:
I have a RRA entry tactical that has a trigger that brreaks crisp but at 12 pounds. Can I correct this with springs?


You could reduce it some with new springs, but if you really want to lower it you'll need a new trigger.



Also to shoot to poa I have to have the rear site almost all the way to the left. Is this normal?

It's not uncommon. I had a Bushmaster that was a good ways left, and I have a Colt that is all the way (-1 click) to the right.

As long as the rifle zeros and keeps the round centered at various distances there is no need to be concerned.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 12:52:05 PM EDT
Jp yellow spring kit from Brownells and a cut down hammer works great. I cut the hammer my self instead of buying the 40 + dollar one the JP sells(low mass hammer). Not one light primer strike yet out of about 500 rounds.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 12:52:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/30/2006 12:53:32 PM EDT by techcas]
Thanks, any particular trigger that will give me a decent pull for not a lot of $. Also can the safety be switched to the right side of the rifle?

Mike
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 1:00:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/30/2006 2:15:28 PM EDT by Forest]

Originally Posted By techcas:
Thanks, any particular trigger that will give me a decent pull for not a lot of $.


All the ones I'm aware of start around $100. The RRA two stage comes to mind.



Also can the safety be switched to the right side of the rifle?

The only one that I know of that can do that is the one from Olympic Arms. You might want to contact them to see if they are still made (www.olyarms.com).
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 1:53:59 PM EDT
If it is a single stage I had the same problem.

I posted this thread

And got a reply for a 15 minute trigger job.

I performed the trigger job as instructed (took me 17 minutes) and boy what a difference.


I highly suggest you check out my thread and the responses I got. The link to the trigger job is probably the third reply.

Good luck.

If it's a two stage, I have no idea if this will work.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 2:05:43 PM EDT

Originally Posted By techcas:
Thanks, any particular trigger that will give me a decent pull for not a lot of $. Also can the safety be switched to the right side of the rifle?

Mike

Well I only spent 10 dollars on the springs and cut a hammer I all ready had. That is cheap and it has a great trigger pull , about half of your standard trigger. OUT. Tuna
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 3:18:34 PM EDT
Thanks to all for the information. I now see I have a few options.

Thanks again,
Mike
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 6:34:27 PM EDT
Mike,

just so you know the trigger job I posted above costs nothing as you are only modifying the existing springs.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 7:04:51 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Forest:

Originally Posted By techcas:
Also can the safety be switched to the right side of the rifle?


The only one that I know of that can do that is the one from Olympic Arms. You might want to contact them to see if they are still made (www.olyarms.com).


I've got one on my AR10, and it's nice, but I have plain ole' ambi safeties on all my AR15's, and I like them even better.

With the ambi safety, you can use your trigger finger to pull the lever to "safe", and your thumb to flick it to "fire".

Only drawbacks are the price ($30 compared to $12.99) and that there's a lever under your trigger finger when firing.
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