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Posted: 3/30/2006 10:05:11 AM EDT
[#1]
Read everything you can here on the boards. If you still have ?s and do not feel you can do it correctly send it to a good gun smith. I recommend Adco.
This is not something you want to screw up. |
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Posted: 3/30/2006 1:00:05 PM EDT
[#2]
I did read everything I could find on the boards. Mine did not come with instructions - but those posted here said torque to 5-10lbs. No washers, no alignment. It will tighten with shooting.
So, if anyone has permanently attached one, how did you do it? |
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Posted: 3/30/2006 1:02:27 PM EDT
[#3]
+1 for adco, they did a fine job on my vortex |
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Posted: 3/30/2006 1:27:06 PM EDT
[#4]
if you permanently attatch it then it wont move anywhere wether tightning or loosening
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Posted: 3/30/2006 3:35:27 PM EDT
[#5]
Check with PK Firearms they have a vortex ready for pin/weld for $50.00
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Posted: 3/30/2006 3:36:39 PM EDT
[#6]
silver solder paste & a mapp torch
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Posted: 3/30/2006 3:38:12 PM EDT
[#7]
Already got my vortex for $20. Even if I have Adco pin/weld it I'm still under $50, not including postage. |
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Posted: 3/30/2006 10:42:25 PM EDT
[#8]
Smith Vortex flash hiders are HARD.
They don't drill nearly as easy as most other muzzle devices. Smith offers pre-drilled vortexes if you get them directly from them, but very few shops will actually stock these. Someone mentioned that PK does and I have them too. If your $20 Vortex is a real one, you got a good deal. As for permanent attaching it, plan on using a good carbide drill to drill it. I do regular permanent attach jobs for $20 including pre-drilled vortexes. Looking at $30 if I have to drill a hard vortex. Mongo drills vortexes as well. As for torque, just put it on at 15lbs and pin it. It's not going to self tighten, but it's also not going to move. Keep the mapp torch for plumbing, they don't belong on gun barrels and heat treated muzzle devices like a Vortex. |
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Posted: 3/31/2006 10:40:56 AM EDT
[#9]
I think its real - It looks like everyone else's - minus the grooves. On one of the wrench flats there is a stamped "V".
Also, is it normal to have an approx. 1/16" gap between the vortex and the shoulder of the barrel? |
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Posted: 3/31/2006 3:17:23 PM EDT
[#10]
Real vortexes do NOT have a "V" stamped on the flat. It is normal for there to be a 1/16" gap. The Smith G6A2 has a "Skirt" coming off the back to cover this gap. Maybe the old ones have a "V" stamped on them. I don't know, but I never heard of a stamped "V" before either. Take a file and try to scratch it. If you scratch the vortex, it's not a smith. If you scratch the file, it's a smith. |
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Posted: 3/31/2006 3:40:15 PM EDT
[#11]
I got it advertised as an old one.
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Posted: 4/9/2006 12:04:44 PM EDT
[#12]
Can anyone recommend a gunsmith in the DFW area, who permamnently attach one for me on my RRA?
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Posted: 4/9/2006 12:13:31 PM EDT
[#13]
I'm nowhere near Dallas, but I can certainly do it within a few days. I have drilled Vortex G6A2's in stock. $95 for the finished job if your barrel is already threaded. This includes the drilled Vortex, pin & weld and return shipping. See my customer feedback page for additional references. |
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Posted: 4/9/2006 1:56:13 PM EDT
[#14]
I emailed Ron Smith and have yet to hear... here are pics.
  
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Posted: 4/9/2006 4:27:08 PM EDT
[#15]
Sure looks like a G5 to me. I just have never seen the "V" stamp. The front radius looks right, tines look right. It does not have the groove on it for mounting a blank firing adapter or the skirt to cover the gap at the barrel. Other than that, looks fine. Is it HARD? Does it ring like a tuning fork if you tap one of the tines against something hard? |
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Posted: 4/10/2006 3:18:56 PM EDT
[#16]
should the G5 have the groove and the skirt? I did try to scratch it with a file...no dice. No damage to the file, either. And it does ring nicely when hit.
Are the fakes good copies or they just look similar? And I'm still waiting to hear from R.Smith... |
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Posted: 4/10/2006 5:38:17 PM EDT
[#17]
Damaging the file was a joke, but it's good that it's hard and rings. I have not examined the clones, but I believe that they lack in the heat-treatment department. As for the G5, no skirt, but some had the groove. The flats on the G5 are usually not at the end like yours. This is probably a LOT older, like a G3 or G4. |
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Posted: 4/10/2006 7:26:46 PM EDT
[#18]
The guy I got them from said they were OLD. I am hesitant to permanently attach until I hear from the final authority a.k.a. Ron. but thanks for all of the info!
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Posted: 4/10/2006 11:18:43 PM EDT
[#19]
2nd post on page 9 of this topic has pictures of the different generations, or at least the G4, G5 & G6.
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Posted: 4/11/2006 12:06:03 AM EDT
[#20]
My G5 has a small "s" stamped on it in the area between the flats and the tines on 1 side. Maybe for Smith Enterprises?
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Posted: 4/11/2006 4:26:47 AM EDT
[#21]
Well, mine definitely looks like the G5, and the G4 has the V stamp.
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Posted: 4/11/2006 4:40:34 AM EDT
[#22]
Madman,
If you have a choice between having it done locally or sending it to Randal at AR-15Barrels.com you should send it to Randal. He has done barrel work for me in the past and it is first rate and reasonably priced. In my experience when you want a specialized piece of work done you're ALWAYS better off sending it to someone who specializes in that work. Even better when you have a forum like this with many members who will attest to the good work Randal does. |
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Posted: 4/14/2006 3:51:02 AM EDT
[#23]
No offense Randall, but I sent it to Adco. Had early recommendations, and I like to keep it in the Midwest.
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Posted: 4/14/2006 8:49:21 AM EDT
[#24]
Not to hijack but I am looking to do the same thing. Once it is attatched, can you change gasblocks, FSB's?
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Posted: 4/14/2006 9:02:13 AM EDT
[#25]
Once it's PERMANENTLY attached - NO. Not unless you go to a screw style two-piece gasblock. |
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Posted: 4/14/2006 9:09:30 AM EDT
[#26]
I remove permanent muzzle devices when necessary, but the muzzle device is generally a complete loss. In other words, choose the handguard, front sight and muzzle device you want BEFORE you have it welded on. |
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Posted: 4/14/2006 9:17:34 AM EDT
[#27]
Or buy a 16" barrel. |
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