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1/16/2020 9:48:49 PM
Posted: 1/24/2006 10:56:30 AM EST
I'm sure this has been here before, but
I didn't see it in the active posts.
I purchased a 1 gallon parts washer a few
years ago & never took it out of the box.
I would like to set it up now. What kind
of cleaning solution would you guys
recommend. I will be cleaning gun parts
& engine parts, etc. I saw a 1 gallon
degreaser at Advance Auto, but I also
thought about a gallon of WD-40.
Thoughts please.


Johnny C!
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 11:22:37 AM EST

Use a cleaner/degreaser then reoil.
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 6:24:52 AM EST
I went back to Advance & they currently carry
a Gunk product, Carb & Brake Parts Cleaner,
I think it's called. The main component
is Petroleum Distilates.

He mentioned a product called Simple
Green, which I have heard of. He said
they used to carry it, but he thought
the mfg had discontinued production.
Is that true, or can I find it somewhere
else? And would you recommend it for
my use.


Johnny C!
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 6:42:42 AM EST
read simple green destroys aluminum
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 7:01:26 AM EST
I would recommend Extreme Simple Green. I use the regular Simple Green without problems, but this stuff is designed to clean metal parts.

Unless of course you can afford MC-25. This is about the best you can get.

Hope this helps.
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 12:06:35 PM EST
The regular naptha type cleaner works well.
Link Posted: 1/29/2006 4:38:03 AM EST
ED'S RED works good.

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III Automatic Transmission Fluid - GM Spec D20265 or later
1 part K1 Kerosene
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits federal spec TT-T-2981F (CAS# 64741-49-9) or Stodard Solvent/Varsol
1 part Acetone (CAS#67-64-1)
Link Posted: 1/29/2006 8:00:09 AM EST
Ed's red melted the housing on the pump on my parts washer. if you use it for that purpose, make sure the unit is rated for that kind of solution. probably the acetone compoenent of ed's that did it in...

Link Posted: 1/29/2006 1:35:07 PM EST
I like the non-water based "saftey parts cleaner", which is in effect lower vapor pressure mineral spirits, with a flash point of 140+F.

Low ordor mineral sprits have a flash point of just over 100F and thus has more vapor given off, which on a bad day in the summer can build up in corner of the room / garage and catch fire (water heater, light switch, motor burshes etc.).

Now the "satey parts cleaner" will still burn - just harder to be enough vapor built up at normal temperatues to catch from a spark etc. In either case need to vent you work space.

Link Posted: 1/31/2006 4:43:31 AM EST
Thanks for the reply's Gang!
I am concerned with fumes &
flash points. I intend to keep this
in my attached garage, & our
propane water heater is in there also.
Any recommendation for a totally
flame proof solution?
Thanks again for the input!

Johnny C!
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 10:36:07 AM EST
See my post above.

One of the main reasons I like these cleaners is because they are water based.
Link Posted: 2/1/2006 4:27:44 AM EST
Thanks Temptest.

Johnny C!
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 10:44:52 AM EST

borrowed from the Maryland ar15 shooter's site:
Never use 'Simple Green' to clean your AR-15 (or any other Aluminum firearm). The US Army forbids it since they found Simple Green will remove the protective Andodized coating. Courtesy of Jeff White.

Link Posted: 2/14/2006 11:04:54 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/14/2006 11:40:54 AM EST by Psychojeeper]
Also, I have found out (the hard way) this past weekend after going to the range with some of my troops. I was out of my usual cleaner so I dropped my trigger parts, bolt & carrier parts and charging handle into a tupperware dish filled with "Greased Lightning",,, which is supposed to be a "safe" haousehold cleaner & degreaser, for a soak. WARNING!!!!!!This product also removes the anodizing from aluminum parts, so it was Rustoleum Camo flat black touch-up time till my new charging handle comes in.

It did do a hell of a job cleaning the steel parts with no damage whatsoever, but I'd keep it away from anything aluminum, as I now would any cleaner such as this "kitchen" type cleaner.

From now on I plan on finding some scrap pieces of aluminum that have been anodized and test them in the cleaner first.

The screwed up thing is, it was recomended to me that I use these type of grease-cutting cleaners because they were less harsh(low odor/fumes,easy on the skin, etc.) than the Brake parts cleaner, Bore Blaster, carb cleaner,etc that I was already using. I dont know about you, but I'd call a product that disloves anodizing pretty "Harsh".
Think I'll stick to my old favorites.
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