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Posted: 11/18/2008 7:01:13 AM EDT
I am sending off my first NoDak lower for anodizing.  Any recomendations as to what small parts to include that they can refinish?

Upper is one from OOW with a good original finish so I am holding off sending it for now.

Thanks
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 7:17:13 AM EDT
For anodizing, I would include the trigger guard, mag button, and charging handle.  

You could also send the slip ring if you wanted, though those came in all different shades.

Link Posted: 11/18/2008 7:42:17 AM EDT
It depends on how much you want to spend as well.  Although I've had a dozen or so uppers done by US Anodizing, I've never sent a lower receiver to Victor.  However, if I was going to, I would consider the whole gun pagkage price...
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 11:12:33 AM EDT
In the past, upper, lower, trigger guard, mag button, and charging handle.  "White" lowers like I use, since I get them engraved, are cheaper to have done.  If I wasn't using newish slip-rings, I might send it also but I can buy a new one for less than getting one ano'ed.
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 12:29:40 PM EDT
Thanks guys.  I have it boxed and ready to ship tomorrow.
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 1:18:23 PM EDT
Note Trigger Guards that are re-anodized usually have a looser hole for the roll pin that holds the spring and detent in place.  I had to loctite my roll pin in place to make sure it didn't fall out after re-anodizing.
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 2:36:13 PM EDT
Originally Posted By edwin247:
Note Trigger Guards that are re-anodized usually have a looser hole for the roll pin that holds the spring and detent in place.  I had to loctite my roll pin in place to make sure it didn't fall out after re-anodizing.


I've had several re-ano'ed...none were loose...interesting.  What brand?  So far, all the one's I've had done were DPMS's....
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 2:48:34 PM EDT
Originally Posted By edwin247:
Note Trigger Guards that are re-anodized usually have a looser hole for the roll pin that holds the spring and detent in place.  I had to loctite my roll pin in place to make sure it didn't fall out after re-anodizing.


have him mask all holes before strip and re-plate.

Link Posted: 11/18/2008 3:02:05 PM EDT
Originally Posted By edwin247:
Note Trigger Guards that are re-anodized usually have a looser hole for the roll pin that holds the spring and detent in place.  I had to loctite my roll pin in place to make sure it didn't fall out after re-anodizing.


Even if the hole in the trigger guard is loose (they are suppose to have some play so it can be rotated for the winter trigger), the holes in the lower should still hold the pin in place.
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 3:08:24 PM EDT
He's talking about the roll pin that holds the spring and detent in front of the trigger guard, not the roll pin that hold the trigger guard to the lower.
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 3:37:30 PM EDT
Lower receiver:     $75.00
Upper Receiver:    $50.00
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 3:38:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/18/2008 3:40:12 PM EDT by LonghunterCO]
I can see how an upper/lower and some parts could quickly become the whole gun cost...
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 5:26:31 PM EDT
Originally Posted By TexSquirrel:
He's talking about the roll pin that holds the spring and detent in front of the trigger guard, not the roll pin that hold the trigger guard to the lower.


Sorry, I misunderstood. I haven't had any trigger guards re-anodized.
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 6:31:43 PM EDT
Maybe not relavent but I don't bother to take the trigger guards apart.  Perhaps that is why I've never had problems with them.....unless part of the cost is they take them apart ?
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 6:34:21 PM EDT
Originally Posted By TerryG3:
Maybe not relavent but I don't bother to take the trigger guards apart.  Perhaps that is why I've never had problems with them.....unless part of the cost is they take them apart ?


I am pretty sure they need to be disassembled. I think the steel parts would react against the aluminum since it is an electrical process.
Link Posted: 11/18/2008 7:44:20 PM EDT
Originally Posted By valhalla:
Originally Posted By TerryG3:
Maybe not relavent but I don't bother to take the trigger guards apart.  Perhaps that is why I've never had problems with them.....unless part of the cost is they take them apart ?


I am pretty sure they need to be disassembled. I think the steel parts would react against the aluminum since it is an electrical process.


I've sent RRA, DPMS, and CMT/Stag trigger guards completely assembled to US Anodizing.

The RRA and DPMS guards come back with the chrome detent and the Stags come back with a matching xm gray detent.

Link Posted: 11/18/2008 9:52:01 PM EDT
You'd have to ask, but I'd be very surprised if they anodized the whole assembly.  I would expect them to do the disassembly for you if you send it whole.
Link Posted: 11/19/2008 4:06:26 PM EDT
They will disassemble but they charge to do it.
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