Painting furniture OD green?

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Painting furniture OD green?

Posted: 3/17/2005 7:58:53 AM EST

What product do I use for a durable finish? I will be painting my CAR stock, forearm, and Ergo grip. Thanks!

Posted: 3/17/2005 8:01:08 AM EST

Duracoat.

Mike

Posted: 3/17/2005 8:04:28 AM EST

I've been thinking of getting some Duracoat. How tough is it, compared to Krylon camo spray paint as a reference point?

Posted: 3/17/2005 8:13:10 AM EST

Please excuse my ignorance but does Duracoat have to be baked on? I'm in a similar situation (want to paint some plastic hardware gray) and have been looking at Alumahyde II.

Posted: 3/17/2005 8:31:27 AM EST

More of Norrels Moly resin guy myself. Works great on plastic, but yah, it needs to be baked.

-Gazzy!

Posted: 3/17/2005 8:34:05 AM EST

I have a (very light) green Samco G27 grip that I would like to match a CavArms OD stock. Is there a regular (e.g. Krylon) color that will provide a good match without the hassle of baking ? I'm not too worried if a bit wears off over time, as the lighter green showing through will probably not notice too much.

Posted: 3/17/2005 8:37:41 AM EST

You can't actually back plastic furniture can you?

Posted: 3/17/2005 8:52:47 AM EST

Quoted:
You can't actually back plastic furniture can you?

You can to a point. Baking something vs. applying an open flame to it will affect the plastic differently. What I am not sure of is the temperature limit in regards to baking plastic.

Posted: 3/17/2005 9:02:38 AM EST

I always use Brownell's Alumahyde II for furniture, no baking.

Posted: 3/17/2005 9:28:52 AM EST

Quoted:
I always use Brownell's Alumahyde II for furniture, no baking.

DING DING DING...............
Dave G taught me about Alumahyde but I cure in a BIG Counter Top Convection Oven that I also use on PCB SMT work. Alumahyde matches perfectly with ARMALITE's green.

Posted: 3/17/2005 9:48:27 AM EST

Why not just buy the OD furniture instead of painting anything? That would make the most sense to me, just because if you get tired of the OD you can always go back to black without having to strip paint of your furniture. Thanks Arvin

Posted: 3/17/2005 9:49:42 AM EST

You can bake plastic parts with Norrells Moly Resin at 250*F for 1 1/2 hr (instead of 300*F for 1 hour as on metal).

The problem with Krylon, it is too easily affected by various oils and solvents.

As far as match, here is Norrell Moly Resin OD on an upper with OD furniture from Armalite:

Posted: 3/17/2005 10:03:39 AM EST

Quoted:
Quoted:
I always use Brownell's Alumahyde II for furniture, no baking.

DING DING DING...............
Dave G taught me about Alumahyde but I cure in a BIG Counter Top Convection Oven that I also use on PCB SMT work. Alumahyde matches perfectly with ARMALITE's green.

Interesting. The directions for Alumahyde specify that the parts should be heated to 90 degrees and that they will cure faster at 9 degrees but I can't say I've seen an oven that will go that low. I take it you can bake them at a slightly higher temperature (120 degrees) for less time?

Posted: 3/17/2005 10:28:14 AM EST

Quoted:
Why not just buy the OD furniture instead of painting anything? That would make the most sense to me, just because if you get tired of the OD you can always go back to black without having to strip paint of your furniture. Thanks Arvin

shhhh....just drink the kool aid