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1/27/2021 11:01:57 PM
1/27/2021 12:46:26 AM
Posted: 3/17/2005 7:58:53 AM EST
What product do I use for a durable finish? I will be painting my CAR stock, forearm, and Ergo grip. Thanks!
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 8:01:08 AM EST
Duracoat.

Mike
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 8:04:28 AM EST
I've been thinking of getting some Duracoat. How tough is it, compared to Krylon camo spray paint as a reference point?
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 8:13:10 AM EST
Please excuse my ignorance but does Duracoat have to be baked on? I'm in a similar situation (want to paint some plastic hardware gray) and have been looking at Alumahyde II.
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 8:31:27 AM EST
More of Norrels Moly resin guy myself.  Works great on plastic, but yah, it needs to be baked.

-Gazzy!
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 8:34:05 AM EST
I have a (very light) green Samco G27 grip that I would like to match a CavArms OD stock. Is there a regular (e.g. Krylon) color that will provide a good match without the hassle of baking ? I'm not too worried if a bit wears off over time, as the lighter green showing through will probably not notice too much.
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 8:37:41 AM EST
You can't actually back plastic furniture can you?
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 8:52:47 AM EST

Quoted:
You can't actually back plastic furniture can you?

You can to a point. Baking something vs. applying an open flame to it will affect the plastic differently. What I am not sure of is the temperature limit in regards to baking plastic.
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 9:02:38 AM EST
I always use Brownell's Alumahyde II for furniture, no baking.
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 9:28:52 AM EST

Quoted:
I always use Brownell's Alumahyde II for furniture, no baking.



DING DING DING...............
Dave G taught me about Alumahyde but I cure in a BIG Counter Top Convection Oven that I also use on PCB SMT work.  Alumahyde matches perfectly with ARMALITE's green.
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 9:48:27 AM EST
Why not just buy the OD furniture instead of painting anything? That would make the most sense to me, just because if you get tired of the OD you can always go back to black without having to strip paint of your furniture. Thanks Arvin
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 9:49:42 AM EST
You can bake plastic parts with Norrells Moly Resin at 250*F for 1 1/2 hr (instead of 300*F for 1 hour as on metal).  

The problem with Krylon, it is too easily affected by various oils and solvents.  

As far as match, here is Norrell Moly Resin OD on an upper with OD furniture from Armalite:

Link Posted: 3/17/2005 10:03:39 AM EST

Quoted:

Quoted:
I always use Brownell's Alumahyde II for furniture, no baking.



DING DING DING...............
Dave G taught me about Alumahyde but I cure in a BIG Counter Top Convection Oven that I also use on PCB SMT work.  Alumahyde matches perfectly with ARMALITE's green.

Interesting. The directions for Alumahyde specify that the parts should be heated to 90 degrees and that they will cure faster at 9 degrees but I can't say I've seen an oven that will go that low. I take it you can bake them at a slightly higher temperature (120 degrees) for less time?
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 10:28:14 AM EST

Quoted:
Why not just buy the OD furniture instead of painting anything? That would make the most sense to me, just because if you get tired of the OD you can always go back to black without having to strip paint of your furniture. Thanks Arvin



shhhh....just drink the kool aid

He may be like me and have some extra black furniture around or he may be just looking for a way to experiment
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 10:34:17 AM EST
How does Krylon stand up to oil and solvents?
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 10:37:00 AM EST
not well

use Duracoat and an airbrush...No need to bake.  
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 10:42:41 AM EST
ok thanx...ARin
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 4:57:46 PM EST
Psst, I just got a set of green furniture for under $40
Link Posted: 3/17/2005 6:32:57 PM EST
ya, in fact, you might spend more on the airbrush and the duracoat than it would cost to buy the OD furniture.
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