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Posted: 11/6/2005 11:55:25 AM EDT
[#1]
Lol, as i remember, you color in the selectors, then wipe the excess off. A 4 year old could do it.
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Posted: 11/6/2005 7:31:52 PM EDT
[#2]
yeah, but stay inside the lines is a bitch!  Hootbro |
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Posted: 11/6/2005 7:33:40 PM EDT
[#3]
Its so hard to pick a color with one of the 64 crayon box.
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Posted: 11/6/2005 7:45:51 PM EDT
[#4]
Remember having an old box of crayons that had "flesh" color before going politically correct and changing the name to "peach". www.factmonster.com/ipka/A0872797.html |
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Posted: 11/6/2005 9:13:51 PM EDT
[#6]
Just heat up the lower with a hair dryer and apply the crayon to the lettering or engraving. The crayon will melt into the recesses. I like to just spread it all over to fill it in, no need to stay "in the lines". Let it dry, spray some CLP and wipe excess off.
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Posted: 11/7/2005 4:00:10 AM EDT
[#7]
Thanks Guys.
Cheers, Dave |
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Posted: 11/7/2005 5:38:05 AM EDT
[#8]
Thank God for old time posters. They help out when needed.
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Posted: 1/7/2006 7:25:12 AM EDT
[#9]
okay - so I tried the crayon trick. As I first thought and suspected, it is a so so idea.
http://northcoastbni.com/images/ar/crayon.jpg I did it 2 ways. I just rubbed crayon into the stamp, and I heated a soddering iron and tried to melt it in. The soddering iron was absolutely a no go. It would melt up, fill in, BUT come right off like a rubber stamp with "SAFE" raised on it. it just did not adhere whether I let it sit or took off the excess ASAP. rubbing it in, as you can see by my quick proof of concept test in the photo, is ok - but weak. in cold weather I could see it falling out. And, it is hard to get definition of each letter. So, I say it is not a really legitimate idea now that I have tried it. Atleast, not a an aluminum body of an AR15 lower. As for it coming off and having to redone "after a while" - I would think more like "after 1 use". |
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Posted: 1/7/2006 10:48:52 AM EDT
[#10]
Go to your local airport, and ask an airplane mechanic what they use to fill in the markings on airplane instruments. "White Out" and nail polish can be used with some effectiveness as well.
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Posted: 1/7/2006 6:25:52 PM EDT
[#11]
Use brownells laquer sticks. I used white and red on one of my rifles. It turned out great.
All you do is smear it on, then wipe off the excess with a rag and some mineral oil. Couldn't be easier. www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7778&title=LACQUER-STIK%7e |
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Posted: 1/7/2006 8:35:01 PM EDT
[#12]
I just love these f*cking threads!!!
They pop up exactly every 5 weeks!!! Clockwork!!! 
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Posted: 1/9/2006 5:29:11 AM EDT
[#13]
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Posted: 1/9/2006 5:42:09 AM EDT
[#14]
Good idea on this; I will definitely try this out. |
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Posted: 1/9/2006 7:35:06 AM EDT
[#15]
I can vouch for the brownells Laquer sticks as I've used them pleanty of times. One thing I can suggest is to use q-tips with some spirits to remove the excess laquer. You'll end up with a cleaner, more precise job in the end. The stuff stays well through heat and cold and dosent want to wear off.
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Posted: 1/9/2006 8:38:57 AM EDT
[#16]
People have mentioned in the numerous other threads that the crayons and such will melt out of their rifle in the hot AZ sun...
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Posted: 1/9/2006 1:20:00 PM EDT
[#17]
What I use is the paint that you use to decorate dishes. You can find it at your local hobby store and it's realativly cheap. It's made to be permanent on dishes that run through a dishwasher, so I figured it would be somewhat heat tolerant. I have done three lowers this way and to date they look as good as they did when I first did it. I have also used this to touch up factory pistol sights.
The way I apply it is to use a very fine paintbrush and daba decent drop into the text. Once you have a small drop of paint in the text, wipe the excess paint of the brush. Then use the brush to spread the paint up onto the sides of the walls of the text. Wait about five or so minutes and take a clean papertowel with a touch of Alcholo and gently wipe of the excess around the fonts. I also do all the text with white paint first and then the final color a day later. It's makes the colors stand out more. Allow a few days to cure really well and then go shooting. Make sure you use the paint that doesn't need to be baked on. Nox |
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Posted: 1/9/2006 2:00:58 PM EDT
[#18]
I put it in the build FAQ and it still shows up. 
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Posted: 1/9/2006 3:54:25 PM EDT
[#19]
lazy fockers
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Posted: 1/9/2006 6:25:12 PM EDT
[#20]
I have no idea what you did with your crayons but I tryed it and it looks great. http://home.comcast.net/~blacktbird96/ICANCOLOR.jpg -J |
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Posted: 1/9/2006 8:15:08 PM EDT
[#21]
brand new, eh?
that'll all come out when you first decide that after a day at the range you want it back to black! You'll start scrubbing and oiling everything down with CLP and before you know it, you'll love the EBR without colors! |
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Posted: 1/10/2006 12:02:19 AM EDT
[#22]
I picked up some paint pens from the hobby store a while back. I painted it about 2 years ago and it's holding up well. It's also what I use to mark my magazines. It hasn't come off with shooting or cleaning yet. I know it will come right off with some Goo Gone/Goo Off if you need it to.
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Posted: 1/10/2006 1:51:22 AM EDT
[#23]
Here is my Crayola Crayon colored AR-15 pistol lower.
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Posted: 1/10/2006 3:50:05 AM EDT
[#24]
wal-mart - model car paints for $1.73...
wal-mart food court - toothpick for free... results:   doesn't matter whether its a hole you're filling in or a line. the toothpick (when not overloaded with paint) does a great job. pretty easy. s.tank
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