How does one NOT activate their light when they hold the grip where it is mounted, ala forearm or frwd grip? I know on some lights you can turn them off so not to activate, but what about when you want to selectively use your light.  Help this newbie out. Thanks.

I mounted the tape switch of my Surefire on my vert grip with bike innertube. I positioned it so that with a normal grip it is not squeezed on. But, when needed it's just a matter adjusting my grip to press the switch.

In this pic you can make out the position of the switch. If needed the switch can be slid with the fingers of the grip hand to reposition the switch. When not need it can be slid back towards the rear.

The Tango down grip has a recess that the Surefire pressure pad slides into. In running mine I've found that it's very good at preventing white light AD's.

The TD grip sets the switch low, so AD's are not a big deal if you concentrate on pulling the gun in to your sholuder with the grip rather than squeezing the life out of it.  The M900 needs the switch blockers on the lower half, both sides to prevent them.

Quoted: I mounted the tape switch of my Surefire on my vert grip with bike innertube. I positioned it so that with a normal grip it is not squeezed on. But, when needed it's just a matter adjusting my grip to press the switch. In this pic you can make out the position of the switch. If needed the switch can be slid with the fingers of the grip hand to reposition the switch. When not need it can be slid back towards the rear. www.hunt101.com/img/147028.jpg

You must be using a mountain bike tube, right?

I'm about ready to try this method.

Quoted: Quoted: I mounted the tape switch of my Surefire on my vert grip with bike innertube. I positioned it so that with a normal grip it is not squeezed on. But, when needed it's just a matter adjusting my grip to press the switch. In this pic you can make out the position of the switch. If needed the switch can be slid with the fingers of the grip hand to reposition the switch. When not need it can be slid back towards the rear. www.hunt101.com/img/147028.jpg You must be using a mountain bike tube, right? I'm about ready to try this method.

I went to WalMart and picked out the smallest diameter innertube they had, cost me a couple dollars. It's a bitch to fit on, I almost thought I'd bought TOO small a tube, then I deceided to first roll up the innertube like a rubber. Next I positioned the pressure switch where I wanted it and rolled the tube down over the switch and grip. This set up is just tight enough to keep the switch in place, but like I said above, it can be pushed back and forth a bit if needed.

I look at it like this: If I unexpectedly need the light, the switch is in a position where it can be activated by simply rotating my grip ever so slightly, not effecting my hold on the weapon at all.

If I’m moving from a lighted environment to a darkened environment  where I predict more than occasional light usage I can simply slide the switch a couple mm’s with my support thumb into reach of my finger tips. And like someone else mentioned, I use the grip to not only hold the weapon but to also keep pressure applied rearward seating the rifle butt in the pocket of my shoulder, so there's no "death grip" involved.

keller,
i put a sure fire ta-37(i think thats the mod. #)on my 9p. anyway, it clamps over the bezel and you just flip up the cap when you are ready. close the cover to prevent ad. and a td fore grip, with the "cut out" for the switch it also helps.
others prefer a tail cap switch. just my 2 cents.
by the way quibb, very nice setup ya got there! the inner tube where i come from is lovingly called the "ghetto grip"                  ahhhhhhhh yeahhh!


                                 meat

I attach my pressure pads via 100mph tape and inner tube about .70 of an inch over the grip,covering  a bit of the RAS panels so the bottom of the switch is located directly under my index finger. Works great.

Quoted: .... I went to WalMart and picked out the smallest diameter innertube they had, cost me a couple dollars. It's a bitch to fit on, I almost thought I'd bought TOO small a tube, then I deceided to first roll up the innertube like a rubber. Next I positioned the pressure switch where I wanted it and rolled the tube down over the switch and grip. This set up is just tight enough to keep the switch in place, but like I said above, it can be pushed back and forth a bit if needed. ....

Yep.  That clears things up.  You have a road tube.



Luckily (or is it?) I have plenty of old road and mountain tubes laying around to experiment with.

Corey

I could never be 100% positive that I was not activating my light, no matter what position I had the tape switch on my front handgrip. Its one of the reasons I gave up on tape switches.

Thanks for the responses guys.

For those times where you really don't want a light ad, it's good to have a IR, or solid bezel cover.  That's what I am hoping to get for mine.  It's just a little annoying tracking one down.

Quoted: For those times where you really don't want a light ad, it's good to have a IR, or solid bezel cover.  That's what I am hoping to get for mine.  It's just a little annoying tracking one down.

If you want a solid cover look for a shop that sells Butler Creek scope caps. The color filter cap on my Surefire was a Butler Creek cap I bought that had the clear lense. I removed it, cut a blue lense to fit from an old GI angle head flashlight lense and installed it in the scope cover. Cost about $6.00 compared to SF charging about $20.00. I like the blue lense as a navigation light at night plus it cuts down on the signature from a white light AD.