Noobie here looking for ideas. I have a RRA TAC Entry.  My first AR.  I've been bitten.  Decided I wanted to build my own unique AR varminter/tack driver.  So I ordered a stripped RRA lower a couple to few months ago.  

Came in yesterday.

I guess I could order all RRA parts and build one but I don't think I could save any money over just buying a factory built RRA Varmint.

Looking for suggestions on successful builds on tack drivers and what kind of cost I should expect.  Thinking of 18-20 barrel.  Twist?

One other question, can you tune a milspec trigger found in standard lower parts kits or are you better off just forking over the extra $ for a match trigger.

Quoted: Noobie here looking for ideas. I have a RRA TAC Entry.  My first AR.  I've been bitten.  Decided I wanted to build my own unique AR varminter/tack driver.  So I ordered a stripped RRA lower a couple to few months ago.   Came in yesterday. I guess I could order all RRA parts and build one but I don't think I could save any money over just buying a factory built RRA Varmint. Looking for suggestions on successful builds on tack drivers and what kind of cost I should expect.  Thinking of 18-20 barrel.  Twist? Do you want it real heavy for max stability from a bench, or would you like it to be comfortable to carry around too?  The RRA or White Oak barrels are good (Edge would go to White Oak but the Wilson Barrels from RRA are good too and you would have a hard time out shooting the barrel)  1:8 or 1:7 twist for stabilizing heavy match bullets in the 75-77 gr range. I wanted a "Walking Predator/Varmint" rig and got a Marksman upper from J&T distributing, that features a 20" Wilson national match, stainless barrel, with 1:8 twist and railed free float forearm.  Shoots around half MOA with Black Hills Match HP 68gr loads.   One other question, can you tune a milspec trigger found in standard lower parts kits or are you better off just forking over the extra $ for a match trigger. They can be tuned but the sear/hammer engagement surfaces need to be reangled for the best results.  You would be better served with a factory match trigger unless you are really handy with tools and have the proper stoning jig.

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Quoted: height=8 Quoted: Noobie here looking for ideas. I have a RRA TAC Entry.  My first AR.  I've been bitten.  Decided I wanted to build my own unique AR varminter/tack driver.  So I ordered a stripped RRA lower a couple to few months ago.   Came in yesterday. I guess I could order all RRA parts and build one but I don't think I could save any money over just buying a factory built RRA Varmint. Looking for suggestions on successful builds on tack drivers and what kind of cost I should expect.  Thinking of 18-20 barrel.  Twist? Do you want it real heavy for max stability from a bench, or would you like it to be comfortable to carry around too?  The RRA or White Oak barrels are good (Edge would go to White Oak but the Wilson Barrels from RRA are good too and you would have a hard time out shooting the barrel)  1:8 or 1:7 twist for stabilizing heavy match bullets in the 75-77 gr range. Good question, can I have my cake and eat it too?  My bud has a 20" RRA Varminter...seems too heavy, something lighter please, something I could carry on occasiong but certainly not all the time. I wanted a "Walking Predator/Varmint" rig and got a Marksman upper from J&T distributing, that features a 20" Wilson national match, stainless barrel, with 1:8 twist and railed free float forearm.  Shoots around half MOA with Black Hills Match HP 68gr loads.   One other question, can you tune a milspec trigger found in standard lower parts kits or are you better off just forking over the extra $ for a match trigger. They can be tuned but the sear/hammer engagement surfaces need to be reangled for the best results.  You would be better served with a factory match trigger unless you are really handy with tools and have the proper stoning jig.

thanks for the advice..I'm handy, but I've heard of full auto accidents when messing with these triggers also.

Here's a pic of my "tack driver".



It has the RRA two stage trigger in it.  ($80ish)

The upper was just over $500.



The upper 5 shot cluster in the light grey square was after I got the scope fully adjusted using Black Hills ammo at 100yds.  The square is 1" x 1"

I built this with a Bushmaster lower and a J&T 24" stainless barrel and a RRA 2 stage trigger:  



So far I've worked out the following results.  The small marks are 1".  The accuracy is there if I can just hold real still:

Very nice guys!  Keep the 'tack driver pics/descriptions coming!  Gives me some ideas.  I like the looks of the flash suppresors on the bull barrels!  

whats the rough budget?

style you have in mind--bull or hbbl?

the main component of accuracy (besides the shooter and ammo) is the bbl--get a good quality, match bbl (WOA, Wilson, Noveski, etc); i'd opt for a SS one at that

the next is a good trigger; the best trigger work i have tried is the $28 trigger jobs mr bill does in the EE...but while its pretty dang good, i'd opt to up the money and get  a match trigger

the RRA 2 stage is the best for the price imo

what do you plan on loading or hunting/shooting? i'd look into either a 1-8, 1-7, or 1-9 depending on what loads you will primarily will be using

20" is probably the most you will need for 5.56; the 18" is nicer looking imo, esp w/ a muzzle device

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Quoted: whats the rough budget? I dunno, I guess I just want to beat a new RRA Varminter price by a fair amount.  Lets say $800 or so. style you have in mind--bull or hbbl? What's a hbbl? the main component of accuracy (besides the shooter and ammo) is the bbl--get a good quality, match bbl (WOA, Wilson, Noveski, etc); i'd opt for a SS one at that the next is a good trigger; the best trigger work i have tried is the $28 trigger jobs mr bill does in the EE...but while its pretty dang good, i'd opt to up the money and get  a match trigger the RRA 2 stage is the best for the price imo think I've settled on the RRA NM trigger already what do you plan on loading or hunting/shooting? i'd look into either a 1-8, 1-7, or 1-9 depending on what loads you will primarily will be using - 1-8 seems to be middle road based on what I've read.  That's what I'm thinking of.   Don't really have any plans to hunt/shoot anything - groundhogs someday may 20" is probably the most you will need for 5.56; the 18" is nicer looking imo, esp w/ a muzzle device

Quoted: Quoted: whats the rough budget? I dunno, I guess I just want to beat a new RRA Varminter price by a fair amount.  Lets say $800 or so. style you have in mind--bull or hbbl? What's a hbbl? the main component of accuracy (besides the shooter and ammo) is the bbl--get a good quality, match bbl (WOA, Wilson, Noveski, etc); i'd opt for a SS one at that the next is a good trigger; the best trigger work i have tried is the $28 trigger jobs mr bill does in the EE...but while its pretty dang good, i'd opt to up the money and get  a match trigger the RRA 2 stage is the best for the price imo think I've settled on the RRA NM trigger already what do you plan on loading or hunting/shooting? i'd look into either a 1-8, 1-7, or 1-9 depending on what loads you will primarily will be using - 1-8 seems to be middle road based on what I've read.  That's what I'm thinking of.   Don't really have any plans to hunt/shoot anything - groundhogs someday may 20" is probably the most you will need for 5.56; the 18" is nicer looking imo, esp w/ a muzzle device

sorry: heavy bbl (something along the SPR lines); slimmer and lighter than those varmint/bull bbls

so $800 is the rough budget, eh (i hope this doesnt include optics!)...thats not a whole lot

i'd recommend or at least look at:

-A3/flatop upper (CMT's are the best for the price, you can find em for ~$90 complete in the EE)
-either a Wilson Bull or a WOA SPR match bbl assembly (~$250)
-FF tube (w/ or w/out rails)--YHM would be the cheapest, quality one i'd look into, MI would be next
-CMT/Stag or LMT BCG (if the bolt if fitted to a particular bbl, all the more better)
-RRA  2 stage or a RRA tuned by WOA
-stock assembly, perferably one that is tight and sturdy (A2 might be the cheapest as you can regularly find complete sets used in the EE for ~$50; if you want collapsable, which is more versitle, then you will have to pay more...Vltor, MagPul, and LMT get my vote)

"extras":

--muzzle device and perhapse threading; the WOA bbls usually come threaded, but the varmineter bbls arnt usually and you will have to send it off to get it threaded + the price of a good muzzle device (they do help protect the muzzle)
if you get a good MD, would you want a brake/comp (best imo: Mikullik, Ben Cooley, and the MSTN)or a flash hider (Vortex or Phantom)? if none, opt for a target crowning
--set of irons/BUIS sights; there are several, but i'll leave it at this for now (LMT, KAC, ARMS, Troy)
--glass/optics (Leupold, Super Sniper, Nightforce, etc) and mounts (armalite or RRA 1 piece, LaRue if you have the $$$)
--gas block assembly-you probably wont be getting a std FSB so you might want something like a low-pro or a flip down combo

FWIW: the RRA varminter uppers are some of the best for the price (under $600 complete at the Ind dealers), and its already 1-8 twist and has the accuracy potential!

I have an RRA varminter with a 6.5-20 burris on top. I would add that a quality scope is a necessity. It will shoot .5 inch groups with good loads and if I do my job. Currently shoots the best with 50 grain Ballistic tips over 10X powder.

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Quoted: I have an RRA varminter with a 6.5-20 burris on top. I would add that a quality scope is a necessity. It will shoot .5 inch groups with good loads and if I do my job. Currently shoots the best with 50 grain Ballistic tips over 10X powder.

Not dissing an RRA Varminter.  My bud has one that, like yours is very nice, very accurate.  I just want to try and build my own that is as accurate and save a little money to boot.  Only comment I was making about his is how heavy it is....not a carrier.  

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Quoted: height=8 Quoted: height=8 Quoted: whats the rough budget? I dunno, I guess I just want to beat a new RRA Varminter price by a fair amount.  Lets say $800 or so. style you have in mind--bull or hbbl? What's a hbbl? the main component of accuracy (besides the shooter and ammo) is the bbl--get a good quality, match bbl (WOA, Wilson, Noveski, etc); i'd opt for a SS one at that the next is a good trigger; the best trigger work i have tried is the $28 trigger jobs mr bill does in the EE...but while its pretty dang good, i'd opt to up the money and get  a match trigger the RRA 2 stage is the best for the price imo think I've settled on the RRA NM trigger already what do you plan on loading or hunting/shooting? i'd look into either a 1-8, 1-7, or 1-9 depending on what loads you will primarily will be using - 1-8 seems to be middle road based on what I've read.  That's what I'm thinking of.   Don't really have any plans to hunt/shoot anything - groundhogs someday may 20" is probably the most you will need for 5.56; the 18" is nicer looking imo, esp w/ a muzzle device sorry: heavy bbl (something along the SPR lines); slimmer and lighter than those varmint/bull bbls so $800 is the rough budget, eh (i hope this doesnt include optics!)...thats not a whole lot i'd recommend or at least look at: -A3/flatop upper (CMT's are the best for the price, you can find em for ~$90 complete in the EE) -either a Wilson Bull or a WOA SPR match bbl assembly (~$250) -FF tube (w/ or w/out rails)--YHM would be the cheapest, quality one i'd look into, MI would be next -CMT/Stag or LMT BCG (if the bolt if fitted to a particular bbl, all the more better) -RRA  2 stage or a RRA tuned by WOA -stock assembly, perferably one that is tight and sturdy (A2 might be the cheapest as you can regularly find complete sets used in the EE for ~$50; if you want collapsable, which is more versitle, then you will have to pay more...Vltor, MagPul, and LMT get my vote) "extras": --muzzle device and perhapse threading; the WOA bbls usually come threaded, but the varmineter bbls arnt usually and you will have to send it off to get it threaded + the price of a good muzzle device (they do help protect the muzzle) if you get a good MD, would you want a brake/comp (best imo: Mikullik, Ben Cooley, and the MSTN)or a flash hider (Vortex or Phantom)? if none, opt for a target crowning --set of irons/BUIS sights; there are several, but i'll leave it at this for now (LMT, KAC, ARMS, Troy) --glass/optics (Leupold, Super Sniper, Nightforce, etc) and mounts (armalite or RRA 1 piece, LaRue if you have the $$$) --gas block assembly-you probably wont be getting a std FSB so you might want something like a low-pro or a flip down combo FWIW: the RRA varminter uppers are some of the best for the price (under $600 complete at the Ind dealers), and its already 1-8 twist and has the accuracy potential!

Yeah I was not including optics.  I know where there is a slightly used RRA Varminter with a 20 inch barrel, no optics, stock gun from RRA for $950. If $800 is not going to be enough to build my own, seems like buying his Varminter might be the best route, save my lower for something else.

Quoted: Very nice guys!  Keep the 'tack driver pics/descriptions coming!  Gives me some ideas.  I like the looks of the flash suppresors on the bull barrels!

Mine isn't a bull barrel but a heavy barrel/HBAR profile (about .90 inches at the chamber and then steps down in diameter to .76 at the muzzle.  So it's a touch lighter than a bull barrel that is almost 1" thick for it's full length.  The rifle weighs about 9.5 lbs while a bull barreled version weights  than a bull barreled upper weighs about 11.

That picture of the target looks like that red robot from that Black Hole Movie. Maximillian, I think?

Quoted: That picture of the target looks like that red robot from that Black Hole Movie. Maximillian, I think?

Just a target I made on the laptop one night to simulate some vital organ placement and nevous system components.