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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 2/22/2006 6:51:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/22/2006 6:52:43 PM EDT by Surgical]
MUCH easier than I thought.
Cant wait to get to the range. I just finished the lower tonight. I did it in about 30 minutes with a set of pliers (taped) and a screwdriver. Not a mark on the lower! (have castle wrench too)

Anyways. total cost was $589. I have a full RRA rifle.
I bought the midlength kit from www.mapartsinc.com
$490 shipped
I then bought an RRA stripped lower from a vendor here.
$99 shipped

I know some of you dont care for M&A but I have to give them credit. Excellent CS and my kit arrived 4 days after I ordered. The rummor I heard about the M&A mid length kits being RRA is true. The complete upper is clearrly marked as an RRA piece. hehttp://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/james206/DSC01006.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/james206/DSC01005.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/james206/DSC01004.jpg



I feel good about this build. Not only is it probably the cheapest NEW build possible, its one of high quality.
I was planning on a CAR length flat top build next but I just LOVE this midlength. May go mid-length with a flat top upper :)

Another thing I wondered about is the trigger pull....its supposed to be 8-9 lbs (MIL-Spec) but the trigger pull is nowhere near that. Its lighter than a couple of the pistols I have which are 5-6 lbs.
Any ideas on what thats all about?
Link Posted: 2/22/2006 8:26:40 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/22/2006 9:06:44 PM EDT
Looks good. And about the trigger, maybe they gave you a RRA NM trigger.
Link Posted: 2/22/2006 9:08:16 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/22/2006 9:09:31 PM EDT
congrats, nice rifle you got there
Link Posted: 2/22/2006 9:11:19 PM EDT

Originally Posted By JL7:
congrats, nice rifle you got there



+1


great price too!
Link Posted: 2/22/2006 9:15:30 PM EDT
Looks great, nice work!
Link Posted: 2/22/2006 9:26:22 PM EDT
Thanks guys!
Someone pointed out my castle nut was on backwards which I have already fixed. I also need to find the front pivot detent pin that is somewhere in my livingroom. h
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 2:58:18 AM EDT
Job well done. Thats a great looking build
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 3:22:56 AM EDT
Congrats! Sure is a nice feeling to build your own eh? It's VERY addicting.

Gene
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 3:47:17 AM EDT
so the bbl is marked rra?

Link Posted: 2/23/2006 5:09:59 AM EDT
From the M & A webpage-

"Who makes your stuff?

Most of our uppers are from Lewis Machine and Tool (LMT) unless specified otherwise. Our barrels are Wilson Match Grade unless otherwise noted. LMT assembles, times, headspaces, and test fires each barreled upper (not every third or fifth one as some suppliers might) and all of the other parts included are from current US Govt contract machine shops. The same first rate US Govt contarctor that we have always used for the bolt/carrier assemblies is still our supplier."

I just put together the exact same rifle from M & A with a RRA lower, except mine has the A1 stock. Damn thing got here a day before I even thought they would ship it. Everything from them seems top notch. Shot 60 rounds of UMC and 20 rounds of Q3131 through it a couple of days ago, flawlessly. I won't talk about the groups yet as I am used to NM sights and this one has a SWAN sleeve sight on it. I threw a scope on it yesterday and plan to see what it will really do this afternoon.

Good looking gun- congrats and let us know how it functions/shoots!

Bill D
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/bduffel/b3f8aa91.jpg
Link Posted: 2/23/2006 5:40:03 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/23/2006 5:50:46 AM EDT by Surgical]
Yeah I found that on the site as well. The upper that comes with the MIDLENGTH kit is a complete RRA upper though. I was told that by someone at MA and have read it a couple places too....

Note how it says MOST of our uppers are LMT....

I have not checked the barrel under the handguards for markings but if you look up by the rear elevation knob you will see a RRA marking on your midlength. he
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/james206/DSC01009.jpg


Nice looking rifle you got there as well!
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 9:56:13 AM EDT
Hey Surgical,

Yeah, I just put that in responding to eklikikwhoa's question. Mine was a flattop and was built from a RRA upper-has the RRA logo in white at the rear of the flattop area. I don't recall if RRA marks their barrels or not. I don't know if the M&A barrel is RRA or not but it states it's a Wilson, same as RRA uses. Main reason I bought from M&A was I read they built on RRA uppers in the midlength. I was going to buy a RRA complete upper but bought the kit for about $40.00 more than the complete upper alone and got the extra complete butt assembly and lower parts kit as well for the little extra dough as I am going to add about three complete rifles to the collection before all is said and done.

I am REAL happy with the M&A kit. I took the ElCheapo red dot off & mounted a 3-12 scope. Shot it again yesterday with another 140 rounds of UMC, 50 rounds of Black Hills blue box 77 gr. match ammo and another 40 rounds of Q3131. Again, not a single problem. Scope and SWAN sleeve both loosened up so groups weren't all that impressive and I didn't notice it until I got home. Guess I didn't have it tight enough. I bought an assembled RRA lower also to have some spare parts. The original trigger had a lot of creep. I took the triger from the M&A kit and installed it. Pull was heavier but it was crisp. Then took the springs that came with the RRA lower and installed them with the M&A hammer/trigger. It's about half as heavy with no creep now. Much better.

Anyway your rifle looks great and I hope it runs as well as mine. Let us know.

Bill D
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 2:47:44 PM EDT
Gotcha....
I did check the barrel and it was not marked.
I shot 120 rounds today...20 PMC 55gr and 80 winchester. Flawless.

One thing I did notice is that my trigger pin kept backing out every 10 or so rounds. The hammer pin stayed put but the trigegr pin kept moving out.
I guess I'll double check that when I put the $10 reduced power #4.5 trigger spring kit in from Brownells. There is no creep on my setup but I would like it a little lighter. Its very crisp though.

I too am very happy with the parts and service from MA.....I will definately look to them on my next build. I'm doing a CAR length flat top....lightweight barrel....and I already have a SunDevil Billet lower/stag LPK on the way :)
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 11:14:08 PM EDT
Are the legs of the hammer spring lying on top of the trigger pin? Some people get them under the trigger pin & they are what lock the pin in. Or, if you clip one leg of the hammer spring off to lighten the trigger pull the groove in the trigger pin has to be on the side of the long hammer spring leg to lock it in place. Just a couple of thoughts.
Link Posted: 2/26/2006 7:08:48 AM EDT
Mine is marked "210" on the top of the barrel near the barrel nut, under the gas tube=chromemoly midlength 5.56 mm chamber per RRA. So, it apparently does have a RRA barrel as well as upper.

From the manufacturer: (Thanks to Steve at RRA)

New Codes:
The actual base part number from our parts system/catalog, located over the chamber. These are the most common. Unless indicated otherwise, all stainless barrels are 1:8 twist and all moly barrels (chrome-lined or not)are 1:9. All 16" moly barrels have a NATO chamber, while the 20" moly and all stainless barrels have a Wylde chamber.

200 =moly CAR
200CL =Chrome-lined CAR
202 =moly R4
204 =Chrome-lined R4
206 =Stainless CAR
208 =16" varmint
210 =moly Mid
212 =Chrome-lined Mid
215 =Stainless Mid
218 =18" varmint
220 =moly Std (rifle)
222 =Stainless NM(rifle)
223 =Stainless NM (rifle), unthreaded
226 =20" varmint
228 =24" varmint (1:8)
229 =24" varmint (1:12)

Steve/RRA
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