Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/3/2005 4:31:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/11/2005 4:25:24 AM EDT by Jim_Linch]
I've got a new income source (temporary roommate) and he's paying $250.00 a month in rent, so.... I figured I'd finally build me one of those "black rifles" with the $$$.

Below is my build sheet and the best prices I've found on the net so far. See anything I might regret or am missing? The optics and suppressor are in the distant future (at least next year) but wanted to add the total package.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Link Posted: 8/3/2005 7:10:02 AM EDT
Something like that you might consider a free float forearm. Yankee Hill makes a nice smooth forearm pretty cheap, ~$50 from brightflashlights, or you could go the little more expensive route and get one that has rails that can be mounted to the forearm for a tango down grip etc.
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 7:11:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/3/2005 7:12:16 AM EDT by eklikwhoa]


i would start sourcing the ee for better prices. or something. or maybe its just me, i usually buy bit by bit and never think about the total


i would also ditch some of the un-needed stuff.


gasbuster and use funds for better buis.
front sight for more mags or ammo.
d-fender for ammo (if you dont have problems then its not needed)

but since its your money and your rifle do as you wish.


sounds like you have a plan!
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 9:37:03 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/3/2005 9:37:54 AM EDT by mongo001]
I thought about ditching the Gas Buster also, until I saw the last item on the list.

If money is a great concern, I ditch the tritium front sight post and get an Aimpoint ML2, vs. the ML3. I'd also ditch the Defender and get a few Wolff extra power extractor springs. Other than that, I'm not seeing much that I'd get rid of, personally.

Shop around, though. As stated, you might be able to do a little better on many of those items. A bunch of $5-10 savings can add up real fast.

Good luck.
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 9:37:49 AM EDT

Originally Posted By eklikwhoa:
i would start sourcing the ee for better prices. or something. or maybe its just me, i usually buy bit by bit and never think about the total


i would also ditch some of the un-needed stuff.


gasbuster and use funds for better buis.
front sight for more mags or ammo.
d-fender for ammo (if you dont have problems then its not needed)



I'm tracking with you. I'm pretty cheap, but it has always paid off quite well for me when building AR15s.
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 9:45:03 AM EDT
The price on the lower is fair - but you can do better buying a Stag for $100, LPK for $50, and stock for $60.... not a huge savings, but a bit.

I'd skip the gas buster and just go with the big latch on a regular CH.

Get a ARMS buis.

Are you sure thats the best grip for you?

I dont put defender's on any weapon... never needed one.

You could save $20 on that upper by going CMT/Stag (same poarts)

Find a better price on the RRA B/BC.... dont pay more than $110. (good choice tho)

You dont mention the barrel brand, I assume preban Bushmaster 4150 chrome lined, right?

Ditch the tritium front sight.

Aimpoint - good. But get the Larue mount for it.

Supressor??? Cool! Are there any issues with hanging a supressor off a superlight barrel profile?

-----------

Now - get yourself a free float tube.... unless you really dont care for those. I like Larue. YHM ultralight rail if you are cheap.

Add a RRA 2-stage trigger.

Good to go.
Link Posted: 8/4/2005 5:32:31 PM EDT
hmmmm... my email is not tracking this thread.

Thanks for the suggestions!
I'm going with the RRA upper/lower just because I'm willing to pay the extra for a matched set. Cosmetic only, but just something I wanted.

I will be getting the can, so did not see a reason to buy two charging handles.

The can on a lightweight may be an issue, but I'm looking to go SBR also at that time and am thinking the shorter barrel will make up for the whip weight.

Nobody likes tritium FSs eh?

The over all cost is not a great issue, it's the buying in $250.00 increments that counts because I want it to be all from the rent money.

I forgot about LaRue mounts, are they really worth the extra $$$?

Have you heard bad things about the YH rear sight? It looked solid and simple to me, that's what they should be right? I was looking at the ARMs 40 but liked the A1 adj. style of the YH. Once it's adjusted it's not needed to mess with really. I'm not going to be doing windage on my carbine at CQB range anyway.

The defender idea came at the suggestion of John Farnam in a class I took with him. He swore by them and said the Marines in the sandbox were getting 2-3 times the life out of the springs with them.
Link Posted: 8/4/2005 5:34:05 PM EDT
PS. the image of the spreadsheet is dynamically linked and will show updates to the build. Don't forget to skim over it for changes.

Thanks again for the suggestions.
Link Posted: 8/8/2005 5:46:22 AM EDT
List updated and tools added.
Link Posted: 8/8/2005 2:07:58 PM EDT
you'll love that superlight barrel....i went from a 20" hbar that felt like a fence post and stayed in the safe,to the bushmaster superlight that i can't put down....
Link Posted: 8/8/2005 9:16:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/8/2005 9:16:24 PM EDT by repub18]
Isnt that gas buster almost a must with a supressor?
Link Posted: 8/9/2005 5:55:53 AM EDT
Unless you like getting hit in the eye, it's my understanding that it's critical gear.
Link Posted: 8/9/2005 7:09:31 AM EDT
Why do you need the barrel vise blocks if your getting an action block?
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 3:50:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/10/2005 3:50:49 AM EDT by Jim_Linch]
I don't, I'm ordering that for another project. Sorry for the confusion.


First order done, Superlight on the way!!
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 4:14:23 AM EDT
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 11:57:05 AM EDT

Originally Posted By MikeG23:
Why do you need the barrel vise blocks if your getting an action block?



To correctly remove muzzle devices, of course! Action blocks are not recommended for this, because it puts way too much stress on the indexing pin to upper receiver.
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 11:58:11 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Tweak:
building your first one is not a good idea.



Tell that to the hundreds and hundreds of happy first time builders in the BIY forums.
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 5:05:22 PM EDT
To each his own. I'm a tinker guy by nature. I'm also fairly competent at machine work. I just made a Vortex FS for my cut down and threaded FN-FAL carbine project. Course having a full machine shop at work to play with helps.

So what headaches are you talking about? It's not rocket science.

I did think about saving and buying a model like Ameetecs top of the line, but it will cost $400.00 more and still is not exactly what I want and I would just have to replace stuff anyway. This way I get the knowledge of building (future build to come I'm sure) have the tools to help others, and get EXACTLY what I want the first time around.

If I was going cheap I could see your point, but I'm interested about what prompted you to make the negative comment in the first place? You own experience, others you know?
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 5:25:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/10/2005 5:25:48 PM EDT by MikeG23]

Originally Posted By FALARAK:

Originally Posted By MikeG23:
Why do you need the barrel vise blocks if your getting an action block?



To correctly remove muzzle devices, of course! Action blocks are not recommended for this, because it puts way too much stress on the indexing pin to upper receiver.



I didn't know that. When I put my upper together I put the flash suppressor on while the upper was still in the action block. It didn't take very much effort at all to get the A2 flash suppressor clocked correctly.
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 7:26:48 PM EDT

Originally Posted By MikeG23:
I didn't know that. When I put my upper together I put the flash suppressor on while the upper was still in the action block. It didn't take very much effort at all to get the A2 flash suppressor clocked correctly.



Commonly done (I do it too!) but sometimes you get one that is REALLY tight to remove and especially when trying to time a indexed flash hider using a crush washer. Sometimes it takes a lot of UMPH and this is where the vise blocks are really required. In these cases... if I have a solid pinned FSB... I vise on the FSB between two blocks of wood.... but vise blocks are the "right" way.
Link Posted: 8/10/2005 7:33:09 PM EDT
Isnt it usually refered to as: Building from scratch? not scrap

Link Posted: 8/11/2005 4:24:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/11/2005 4:25:12 AM EDT by Jim_Linch]
LOL !

I didn't notice that... suprised it took so long.



EDIT: Title changed to scratch.. LOL
Link Posted: 8/12/2005 1:16:00 AM EDT
Link Posted: 8/12/2005 11:20:22 AM EDT
I haven't seen many superlights on "tactical" rifles, it seems most people prefer to use M4 or HBAR profiles, but to each his own. What made you decide to go that route?
Link Posted: 8/12/2005 1:33:41 PM EDT
Paragon,

The idea to go Superlight came from all the guys I know that have M4 profiles that go to the Carbine courses at TR and other schools. Everyone of them said "go light!!!!"

It's not like it's a wimpy barrel, it's the A1 profile that served well for man a years in combat. As long as you are not bustin doors down with it I don't see an issue.
Link Posted: 8/12/2005 9:41:13 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Jim_Linch:
Paragon,

The idea to go Superlight came from all the guys I know that have M4 profiles that go to the Carbine courses at TR and other schools. Everyone of them said "go light!!!!"

It's not like it's a wimpy barrel, it's the A1 profile that served well for man a years in combat. As long as you are not bustin doors down with it I don't see an issue.



Wise choice.
Link Posted: 8/12/2005 9:44:41 PM EDT
Superlight seems like a good idea. What feature does a M4 profile really benefit to a civilian? My next build is either going to be a Superlight or a Midlength.
Link Posted: 8/12/2005 9:48:22 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Tweak:

Originally Posted By FALARAK:
Tell that to the hundreds and hundreds of happy first time builders in the BIY forums.



I tell it to them a year later in my forum when their home brew rifle beats itself to death because they had no idea how a proper rifle should act or wear.





really, how hard is it to tighten a barrel nut?
Top Top