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Posted: 7/14/2008 8:30:33 PM EDT
I went out to the field behind my house and shot three magazines with no problem, loaded up the forth and fired the first shot then nothing, pulled the trigger and it has no response (yes the safety was off). I tried to open the bolt and it wont budge it is totally stuck in the closed position with a live round in the chamber!!
Has anyone here ever had this happen to them?? I am hoping its an easy fix that I just don't know about because I am new to the AR15. |
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Remove the magazine.
With the muzzle end pointed towards the sky in a safe direction, have you SAFELY tried to pull back on the charging Handle while slamming the buttstock on a hard surface? If you have a collapsable buttstock, close it before you try my suggestion. If not, it might break. ETA:KEEP YOUR HEAD, FACE, HANDS AWAY FROM MUZZLE END WHILE PERFORMING THIS ACTION. MAKE CERTAIN THERE IS NOTHING/NOBODY ABOVE YOU WHO MIGHT BE IN THE PATH OF A POTENTIAL PROJECTILE. JUST A WARNING |
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Yea I tried that but it just wont budge no matter what I do... |
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Keep trying, be safety conscience.
What ammo? Was she lubed? Safety selector functional? |
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Ammo: Wolf .223 55gr I broke it down and cleaned & lubed it the night before safety selector is now stuck in the fire position and will not goto safe |
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In my humble opinion, that is your problem right there. Wolf is notorious for their steel cased ammo not expanding to fully enclose the chamber, which results in carbon buildup between the chamber wall and the spent casing. Too many rounds fired means your case will literally stick to the chamber wall. I had that problem a couple of times with Monarch (basically Wolf) brand ammo from Academy. Since then I've shot only brass and have never had that problem again. +1 on grabbing your charging handle and slamming the buttstock on the pavement or the workbench. BUT, BE CAREFUL and don't break your rifle. |
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IS it the green case WOLF? |
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Is the bolt in battery? Can you seperate the upper from the lower? If the carrier is flush with the upper, it is in battery. Removing the upper from the lower will make it safer.
Since this is a Bushy, you can try this once the upper is pulled off the lower. Remember, there it a live round in the chamber. And it is stuck so be careful. Once seperated, CAREFULLY hold the upper in a vise, upside-down. Use multiple layers of old blue jeans as a vise pad. MAKE SURE THE MUZZLE IS POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION, a 5 gallon bucket full of pea gravel will stop the bullet IF it accidently goes off. Get a piece of 1/8" brass PIPE, Sch 40. This is about 0.405" OD, NOT TUBE. PIPE. Hardware stores have them in handly threaded lengths. Get a 10" or 12" long piece. Or a brass drift that is less than 0.48" in diameter. This will be used as a drift to knock the carrier BACK. You will be using the drift on the CARRIER, right beneath the rear sight. Place the pipe end against the carrier, holding it at about a 30 degree angle off the axis of the bore. Hit the other end with a mallet. If it is a stuck case, it will come easily. Or shear the rim. If it is a ruptured case head, it will probably still come out, but you will need a new bolt in most cases. In either situation, it needs to go back to Bushy. But having the bolt/carrier out makes it much safer. |
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yes its the green casehinking.gif
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The extractor will pull it out when using my method. Since the carrier will unlock the bolt, all is fine. Are you CERTAIN that it didn't fire? Look around the ejection port. If the case failed and it is brass, there will be a brass coating EVERYWHERE. Looks gold. If you have the upper pulled, try running a cleaning rod down the muzzle. If it can be run down for a length almost equal to the barrel length, then it is fired. The safety not going on is a sign the hammer is DOWN and it FIRED. |
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I know it didn't fire I shot 1 round...as soon as I noticed a problem with the second i removed the mag, put the weapon on the table facing down range and went back to my truck and counted the rounds left in the mag...there were 8, so I shot 1 and 1 is still in there unfired.
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Then the rifle didn't go into battery fully and is locked because of dirt in the chamber from the Wolf ammo. To get the rifle apart, you need to remove BOTH pins. It will disassemble. Use the drift to the rear of the carrier to drive it apart. Most stocks won't tolerate too much pounding. But holding the upper in a vise in multiple layers of worn denim (just use an old pair of jeans, folded) and driving it to the rear is relatively harmless. |
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Take it APART. Remove the two push pins. Pull the upper off the lower. Safer. No issues with transport of a loaded firearm. |
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I just had it out in the garage I got the bolt to move back about 4mm enough to see two cracks that look almost identical to the cracks in the picture you posted
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Call wolf and tell them you want your ammo replaced for free and you want them to pay for the new parts, it worked for me! got 1000rds and if there is a charge for the fix they will pay it.
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That is the extractor cut. Normal. You should be able to get it out TONIGHT Or this morning. I will be here, just keep your chin up. We will work the problem. |
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Oh and as people say, "if your rifle wont fire wolf, then it is a POS" I am going to sell my bushy once it comes back, i am pretty sick of the problems.
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Like the people running regular grade gasoline in their Porsche? |
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I'll work on it some more, if my dad wasn't over seas he'd have it up and running by now lol ... and prob kick my ass for using cheap ammo. |
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Do you have anything that can be used as a drift? Like a 7/16" hardwood dowel? That could work too! Dad is overseas? Military? Well we will keep your use of Wolf secret... |
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I have tons of wood dowels I'm looking for one that fits and can take a little hammering, My dad has been in Army for as long as I can remember fortunately he is retiring when he gets home.
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AWESOME!!! Sounds like you might be able to get away without using a vise, just PLEASE make sure it is pointed in a SAFE direction...I have used firewood as an emergency backstop. Or a basement wall WEAR PROTECTIVE GLASSES. I don't want your father to have to come home and kick my ass because you became a Cyclops. |
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And there is your problem. After three mags of Wolf your chamber got real dirty. It sounds like you have a FTE. The round in the chamber might be a empty shell casing that is stuck in the chamber do to all the Wolf residue. |
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The bolt is sliding back slowly but unfortunately I have to give up for the night so I can get some sleep...thank you everyone for your help, I'll give an update tomorrow with pictures so you can all tell me how much of a jack ass I am for using Wolf ammo
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I had the same problem in my brand new Bushmaster last year. It was shooting like a champ all day off of Remington UMC. I loaded my first mag of Wolf (black box) and after about a dozen rounds I started having problems. I cleared the first malfunction, a casing that failed to eject. I resumed shooting and a few rounds later, my bolt locked shut with a live round stuck in the chamber. Me and three other guys could not pull the charging handle back to cycle the round out. I was horrified at the thought of not being able to go home from the range because I had a live round chambered in my trunk.
After about an hour we resorted to chizzling the bolt back with a flathead screwdriver and prying the round out. Had that been a real conflict instead of a day at the range I would have been a dead man. I believe the severity of the problem was a mixture of Wolf and possibly not enough lube. In either case I am too scared to ever use wolf again. Sad thing is that Wolf is NOT on the Bushmaster list of non-warrantied ammos when clearly a lot of their rifles tend not to like it. Good luck |
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i find it so strange, that some rifles work fine with wolf, and not others. even within the same brand or variety.
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damn what a mess. I hope nothing got out of spec. Call up Bushmaster and they will inspect for ya. Dont use cheap ammo. Buy cheap buy twice! Ask for the Master Gunsmith Jim Eden to check it for ya. Best to call or if you cant get thru to him...email the technical support..its slower but he answers the questions there.
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I hate to be the one to break the bad news, Bushy will no longer service any Wolf related issues. I bought one, and in the packet with OM there was a bright yellow peice of paper that stated they no longer warranty or support service on rifles that have a Wolf ammo related problem.
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Have you tried recocking the hammer and shooting again? if it is in battery pop it in half, cock the hammer, apply safety, close and pop it off. DO NOT BE IN THE LINE OF FIRE FOR BOTH THE BORE AND BREECH!
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You should have tried this method. With every stuck case I've ever had, this method has worked. I was taught this remedial action and I had to put it to use during a carbine course. That time I was in the mud, so I had to pound the rifle against my knee in a kneeling position. I shoot in a tactical rifle league that is similar to IDPA. Every new shooter seems to show up and use Wolf. Then they get one of these types of jams. Don't shoot wolf. |
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At one time Bushmaster recommended Wolf ammo for use in their AR15s |
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If you can get the upper and lower apart, cock the hammer and apply the safety.
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+1 I'm still unsure as to why people have problems w/Wolf and BM. Probably wouldn't hurt to stand the rifle muzzle up and allow the bore to soak in CLP overnight. Perhaps gravity would serve to lube and loosen the chamber and bolt area. |
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75% of the ammo fired through my Bushmaster has been the polymer coated Wolf. It eats it like candy and has never had a single hiccup. |
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NOT this again! I have fired 5K+ rounds of green cased wolf ammo through my RRA Govt Model never even a FTF etc. Don't switch from the wolf to brass cased ammo without cleaning and there sould not be an issue. BIGBORE you there? Also are you the same bigbore on HKPRO? That is crazy that that happened I have no clue what to say? How old was the round etc. more info please. |
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was the case split, ripped, fired, or what could you post up some pictures?
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The problem is not blowby on the wolf when just firing wolf the case doesnt expand fully..so not an issue,if going wolf to brass maybe.Ive always used brass and then wolf never any problems even the other way around.The problem is a new rifle needs to be loosened up with at least 500 to 1000 rounds of good brass to smoothe function out then use crappy ammo.Lube generously especially out of the box.
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Thats exactly why you did not have a prob. CL. The brass expands "cleaning" the wolf residue. That is why if you fire brass than wolf your fine, but some times if you fire wolf than brass it sticks.
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This. Don't break in a new rifle with steel-cased Wolf and you won't have any problems. |
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