And i'm concerning about This.

Wont the bulb DEFENITLY crap out on me for not being shock isolated?
Will a Shock isolated bezel solve this?
Do i need both, the bulb and the bezel to be isolated? i know this would be the ideal set up, but i'm thinking it could just take it and i'm just being paranoid, i know i sound clueless, but that's only because I AM!

Your help is apreciated, your opinion WILL be read carefully and your experience would be awesome.
Thanks
HUNTER.

Quoted: And i'm concerning about This. Wont the bulb DEFENITLY crap out on me for not being shock isolated? Will a Shock isolated bezel solve this? Do i need both, the bulb and the bezel to be isolated? i know this would be the ideal set up, but i'm thinking it could just take it and i'm just being paranoid, i know i sound clueless, but that's only because I AM! Your help is apreciated, your opinion WILL be read carefully and your experience would be awesome. Thanks HUNTER.

You can run the G2 without the Z32 Shock Isolated bezel. The G2 may last for 10,000 rounds, but it also might only last for 1 round. The Z32 is cheap and gives you shock isolation. It still isn't a SF weaponlight, but should serve you well.


C4

www.GRTactical.com

Lamp failures can happen in a $30 G2 or $400+ full blown weaponslight, there simply aren't any guarantees.  But, with a 5.56 AR being a light recoil weapon you can have better 'luck'; we've seen many soldiers who apparently had no other option but to duct tape a G2 or 6P to their h.guards or FSB.  Many reported using std. G2/6P's with no problems while a few others stated they did have a lamp failure, was it recoil related or just a simple failure???  Its simply hard to say.

Now for "Po I need a shock isolated bezel?" That has to be your decision, it's an add'l safeguard which is always a positive but if that expense is not in your budget then its certainly not a reason to go without a light.  

Whatever you choose, the best thing to do is keep the light back from the muzzle and have it in a good, tight mount.  Next thing to do is to burn a set of batteries through it, most lamp failures happen nearly instantly or within that first battery change.  Try to protect the light from hard hits, especially when its hot, that can kill a bulb the easiest and shock isolation won't even be a factor. And last, you should always use reputable batteries.

Quoted: C4i-  What flashlight mount is that?  I've seen them before, but I don't know who all makes them or how much they cost.  I'll be in the market for one just as soon as my new rifle comes in!

That is the Daneil Defense offset mount. www.gandrtactical.com/dd_files/dd_ofm.htm



C4

Quoted: http://www.gandrtactical.com/dd_files/dd_ofm.htm

Thanks for the help!



C4

Quoted: Thanks!  Not to snub you, but for information sake, who else makes offset mounts?  What do you think about the offset (canted) short rail mounts?  I'd then need to mount a set of rings on that mount, then attach that mount to the rail.  Perhaps it just adds more complication, and it wouldn't be QD, like the DD. I really like that DD mount, but I want to make an educated decision before I buy.  Thanks!

Viking Tactics also makes an offset mount (is plastic). The DD is the best one on the market today IMHO.


C4


Viking Tactics

Quoted: Thanks!  Not to snub you, but for information sake, who else makes offset mounts?  What do you think about the offset (canted) short rail mounts?  I'd then need to mount a set of rings on that mount, then attach that mount to the rail.  Perhaps it just adds more complication, and it wouldn't be QD, like the DD. I really like that DD mount, but I want to make an educated decision before I buy.  Thanks!

The only other options beside the Daniel Defense & Viking Tactics mounts are the YHM offset adapters.  Here's a pic of G2 setup on a YHM 3 slot offset -



You don't have to use two rings, nor do you have to use a 3 slot, there's the single slot offset as well as 5 slot offset for the MU series systems -



A single slot offset and ring mount will be a bit less than the Viking mount.  Regardless of which you choose, all three (D.D., Viking & YHM) are worth the $$.

Quoted: The main advantage of the DD mount is QD, right?  QD is not a critical issue since I'm not going to be switching the light from one rifle to another.  I guess it would be nice to pull it off while range-shooting, to avoid excess abuse to the lamp.  Still, I could get a QD ring instead of the QD mount.  Hmmmm...   I like tactical fun toys, but each purchase has to be justified financially as well.   I think I'll probably go with the YHM single offset and a Leupy QD ring (I've already got the ring.)  Now to figure out which light to mount in it!   Any reason to run something other than a Surefire G2?  And remember, LOOKS don't count!   I'm getting my first railed forearm rifle, so I'll also be getting some rail covers for 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions (other than where the flashlight mount and Vert grip will go.   I'll probably go with Tango Down's Battlegrip and Vert grip (I like them, and they have storage), so is there any reason not to stay in the family and use their rail covers as well? A Larue BUIS and Eotech 551 will top off the rifle, just in case anyone was curious!

The reason to NOT run the G2 on a weapon is that it is NOT a weaponlight (not designed to be). With that being said, there are many folks that run them without any issues. There are also a good number of folks that break the lamp modules. I would suggest going with a Pentagon X2 as it IS shock isolated.


C4