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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/16/2005 4:29:29 PM EDT
I just finished this refinish job, I love OD Green!





Link Posted: 8/16/2005 4:32:11 PM EDT
What do you think about the finish? How easy was it to apply? I've got some Matte Black coming for me to refinish my CZ52 pistol in. How durable do you rate the finish?
Link Posted: 8/16/2005 4:48:57 PM EDT

What do you think about the finish? How easy was it to apply? I've got some Matte Black coming for me to refinish my CZ52 pistol in. How durable do you rate the finish?


Norrell's is VERY easy to apply and once cured, it takes sandblasting to remove it. I think it is very tough.
Link Posted: 8/16/2005 4:55:06 PM EDT
I just wondered if it was going to scratch easy, what about where metal on metal rubs?
Link Posted: 8/16/2005 6:08:48 PM EDT
Need to see the whole gun for full effect, looks good though
Link Posted: 8/16/2005 6:21:16 PM EDT
Does not scratch off! That was one of my concerns and it's not an issue. But I suppose that is only if it is applied correctly! I did my own and it's fine...
Joe
Link Posted: 8/16/2005 7:32:11 PM EDT
Looks real good, what did you preheat to for the flat finish? I'm curious as to if you used an exact temp, or went more by feel.

Thanks!
Link Posted: 8/16/2005 7:57:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/16/2005 7:59:54 PM EDT by CAR-15]

Looks real good, what did you preheat to for the flat finish? I'm curious as to if you used an exact temp, or went more by feel.


I actually go by whatever effect I am looking for. Lower temp=glossier finish, higher temp=flatter finish.

I use an old school hair dryer to pre-heat parts with.

I also blast everything LIGHTLY that I refinish with 90 grit aluminum oxide and that helps flatten the finish a bit. (don't worry, I don't go through the anodizing on aluminum parts!)
Link Posted: 8/16/2005 8:31:13 PM EDT
Ok, we are doing the same thing. I am always looking for a better mouse trap that someone else has already built....
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 4:34:07 AM EDT
cant wait to do that to mine. looks great.
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 6:49:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/17/2005 6:49:45 AM EDT by brian427cobra]

Originally Posted By Green95LX:
I just wondered if it was going to scratch easy, what about where metal on metal rubs?



I did my FAL with it, the bolt carrier still looks like its fresh from the oven after a couple thousand rounds, I would have to say its very scratch resistant.
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 11:35:17 AM EDT
My turn, my turn...

and BTW, thanks for all the help Stickman.

The gray basecoat is Norrel's and the black is Rustoleum flat black... I just put the black on it a couple hours ago. I found out something... do NOT use Dupli-color paints (automotive paint) unless you want it to be permanent. It won't come off with brake cleaner or carb cleaner... you HAVE to use acetone, and it leaves all kinds of mess behind. I ended up re-Norrelling it thanks to that darn stuff.... The Rustoleum comes off easily with brake or carb cleaner, though...

The pattern was created by simply placing masking tape on the rifle and then VERY lightly scoring the tape with a SHARP knife... I peeled the tape away I didn't want and presto... instant pattern. From what I could tell there was absolutely no scoring on the Norrell's from the knife. Anyway, I sprayed it down with the black, waited a few minutes for it to dry, peeled away the tape and was very pleased with how it turned out. :) I haven't put any oil on the finish yet, but once it cures for a day or so I will.

And yes, my grass IS that dry... we're like 5.5" down for rainfall from June-August. I haven't mowed my grass in like 4 weeks now.

Link Posted: 8/17/2005 1:46:38 PM EDT
both look very nice I may hit y'all up for some pointers in a week or so
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 3:42:14 PM EDT

Originally Posted By cdhicks99:
both look very nice I may hit y'all up for some pointers in a week or so




Take a look at this writ eup, and feel free to fire away with any question you may have. The process is really pretty easy, and after you do it once, you will be hooked.

Norrells AR15 Refinishing Thread
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 6:25:52 PM EDT
Well I guess I now know what my rifle should look like when I finish it. That is the exact look I am going for to match one of my 1911s. Did you lightly blast these parts as you mentioned? I was really planning on spraying right over the existing finish. Did you have to take it apart to spray the barrel. I ordered my vise blocks and armorers wrench today. Thanks and I like the looks of the gun. gS
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 6:54:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/17/2005 6:55:08 PM EDT by CAR-15]

Well I guess I now know what my rifle should look like when I finish it. That is the exact look I am going for to match one of my 1911s. Did you lightly blast these parts as you mentioned? I was really planning on spraying right over the existing finish. Did you have to take it apart to spray the barrel. I ordered my vise blocks and armorers wrench today. Thanks and I like the looks of the gun. gS


There are lots of schools of thought on if you should disassemble or not before refinishing. I almost always disassemble all of the firearms that I do. I know that some people just leave everything together but I like the control that having everything in pieces gives me.

I do LIGHTLY blast all of the parts that I refinish. On AR's and other anodized aluminum, I just blast it enough to give the surface a slight "tooth".

Also, if you are going to do a barrel disassembly, I HIGHLY recommend buying a Action Block kit. Barrel blocks suck when using them to remove a barrel.
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 7:07:16 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Stickman:
Take a look at this writ eup, and feel free to fire away with any question you may have. The process is really pretty easy, and after you do it once, you will be hooked.

Norrells AR15 Refinishing Thread



Great write-up Stick I will definately try that as soon as mine gets broken in
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 7:14:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/18/2005 11:35:11 AM EDT by Stickman]

Originally Posted By cdhicks99:

www.coloradoshooting.org/ar_refinishing.htm]Norrells AR15 Refinishing Thread[/url

Great write-up Stick I will definately try that as soon as mine gets broken in]



Thanks, it was just a little something I had laying around....
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 11:00:56 AM EDT
I bought the set of blocks upper and lower from Eagle firearms. These are the same as they use at the shop. Hopefully they will work out well. Thanks for the pictures. GS
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 4:42:01 PM EDT
Car and Stick,
Will the green go straight over the black and show up well or will the black base bleed through? I had a problem covering black moly resin with the stainless moly resin once so I was curious if the green went over the black better. I may have been having a bad day with the Silver but I haven't tried it again so I can't say for sure. Thanks guys. gS
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 4:52:25 PM EDT
Silver is considered by Norrells to be the hardest to use. I'm not shocked that you had issues, and I have no intentions of using the stuff. That being said, OD Green goes over black very well. Figure it will take a few coats to get it the way you want, but nothing that I would consider a big deal.

Link Posted: 8/18/2005 6:48:15 PM EDT
I haven't used the silver, but I plan to try it soon, I'll let you guys know how it goes.

I think the OD covers very well, the Tan does also. It may take a few coats, but no big deal at all.

WE NEED A DAMN REFINISHING FORUM!!!!!!!!
Link Posted: 8/18/2005 7:43:22 PM EDT
The silver ordeal was ok but I had sprayed the front site on a Ruger single action and intended to go over the edges with the silver. Well, I reblasted it and now have gone over the silver with the black. It actually went on fairly well but the gun was in such bad shape, it just doesn't look good yet. It has to be shaken some kind of fierce though. Much more aggression is needed compared to the black, green, and grey that I have used. Thanks for the info on the green over black. GS
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