Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
Posted: 10/27/2004 9:10:40 PM EST
Can anyone compare Moly vs. Alumahyde II? I refinished a lower earlier this year with Alumahyde II, and it was suggested to cure at room temp for 2 weeks. Mine took about 6 weeks since I laid it on a little too thick. But the result was good.

Now I'm considering Moly for an 80% project this winter as the down time may be shorter. Can anyone comment on the two?
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 8:14:53 AM EST
I've done a lot of stuff in AHII. Here's what I've learned.

If I do 3-4 thin layers, it's pretty much cured after 3 days at 80F or above. I can generally touch the part 6 hours - 1 day after application. Heating in the oven at 175F for a few hours reduces the cure time.

When applied correctly, it's very durable on most surfaces. However, if the part is heated up a lot (such as a barrel), the AHII gets "tacky" and is less durable until it has cooled somewhat again. Now, I will do just about anything except for a barrel, comp or f/h, or gas block with AHII.

-z
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 10:02:31 AM EST
Moly what? Most upper end coating have some sort of Moly in them. Comparing any of them to AHII is an unfair comparison, the AHII is very good for what it is, but it isn't designed to be the same quality as the others. AHII is a quick & easy spray, and is certainly above most other "spray cans".

Brownells has a good write up on the various products, including AHII.
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 10:06:31 AM EST
He probably meant Norrell's Moly-Resin.

-z
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 10:25:49 AM EST

Originally Posted By Zak-Smith:
He probably meant Norrell's Moly-Resin.

-z



Thats what I figured, but every time I don't ask, I end with with 800 comments and find out I'm wrong!
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 10:27:06 AM EST
The Norrell's M-R looks real interesting. If I can find an affordable airbrish setup, I'll try some.

-z
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 10:36:23 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/28/2004 10:37:55 AM EST by Beyond_Visual_Range]
Well, there's the issue of cost. AH2 is $6 a spray bottle which is enough for 2 rifles. Molyresin? more expensive and you need an airbrush setup. Also you need to oven cure moly, where as AH2 is airdry. depends on your accessiblity of an oven......dont forget the misses still need to do thanksgiving turkey in it. :D

for durability overall though, I'd go with moly.
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 12:33:51 PM EST
$7.25 + ORMD shipping with the discount, but I get what you mean about being cheaper. I may pick up a couple different colors with my next Brownells order.

Cost on an airbrush is only $20 or so for the testors kit, which is what I've been using for awhile now.... It includes everything you need, which puts you into refinishing 2 or 3 ARs for under $50, which isn't bad at all.
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 1:51:59 PM EST
Moly Resin gets my vote, very durable and easier to use than most make it out to be.
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 3:54:05 PM EST
Moly Resin Is The SHIT ! spray it,heat it put the rifle together in a couple of hours... Alumahyde II
takes way too long to cure for me. tried it a couple of times,just don't like it. works good on plastic parts as you don't have to bake 'em. but if I had a choice I'd go with Moly Resin...
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 4:10:46 PM EST
Ranger,

You need to stop holding back...how the hell do you really feel about the stuff!?

I've been very pleased with Norrells as well.
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 4:19:35 PM EST
With Moly Resin, you can use a cheap Badger 350 or Testors airbrush, such as you find in hobby shops or plastic model section of toys at Wally World. $15-$20. I use the same airbrush for doing model train locos and cars, weathering effects, etc.

Moly Resin is VERY easy to spray, and it is almost impossible to make it run or drip. It is ready to spray straight from the bottle (shake well, shake some more). No thinning necessary.

Like any finish, the secret is having the part well degreased and clean.

I used ordinary lacquer thinner, the cheap stuff (Kleen Strip) in a gallon can, as a degreaser, and for cleanup after spraying.

After spraying, it is almost dry to the touch. You can handle it in a few minutes. You can bake (to cure) it right away, 1 hr at 300*F.

After baking to cure, as soon as it has cooled down enough to touch, you can assemble.

This is not a thick coating like paint. It is very thin, no need to mask barrel or buffer tube threads, plug holes. Just spray.

Ever notice how on a new rifle, the anodized upper, the charging handle latch scratches the anodizing almost right away? Well, Moly Resin will take MUCH longer to scratch. It is a very hard, scratch resistant coating.

This used to be a VERY ugly spray painted Essential Arms gray lower. The upper is one of the LAR Grizzly "blemished" uppers:



And a nice match with Armalite OD furniture:



Here is the A1 upper that used to be on the formerly ugly spray painted rifle in the first picture. I used Flat Black (Socom) Moly Resin. It matches the factory anodized finish on this DPMS lower perfectly.

Link Posted: 10/28/2004 4:32:24 PM EST
Moly resin is very impressive stuff. After you paint your first coat it will be dry to the touch within minutes. I think this is partly due to the fact that you must preheat whatever your refinishing to 100 degress F before refinishing. If you saw a moly resin finished AR in person and wasnt told you wouldnt know it was refinished. Bottom line is you get what you pay for.
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 5:27:51 PM EST
If you saw a moly resin finished AR in person and wasnt told you wouldnt know it was refinished.

Exactly, that was my point with the third picture above. The look, feel, etc, of the black Moly Resin upper matches the lower's factory finish. You just cannot tell the difference.
Link Posted: 10/28/2004 5:50:23 PM EST

Originally Posted By A_Free_Man:
If you saw a moly resin finished AR in person and wasnt told you wouldnt know it was refinished.

Exactly, that was my point with the third picture above. The look, feel, etc, of the black Moly Resin upper matches the lower's factory finish. You just cannot tell the difference.



Here is a pic of the barrel and FS on a weapon that I did that now has a few hundred rounds through it....

Top Top