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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 1/18/2006 8:05:16 AM EDT
What would you guys recomend using to apply some sort of black finish to Stainless Steel? Something that doesn't flake or peel off, and should wear as good as park or blueing.

Anything I can do myself?
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 10:30:08 AM EDT
Duracoat or Norrel's molyresin.

Either will give excellent results but be sure to bead blast the SS prior to applying the product.
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 10:57:31 AM EDT
Probably going to have to take it to my 'smith to have the bead blasting done then...

Thanks!
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 11:34:07 AM EDT
Anyone have any experience with Duracoat?
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 4:00:14 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 6:08:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/18/2006 6:09:05 PM EDT by Stickman]

Originally Posted By hdbint:
Duracoat or Norrel's molyresin.

Either will give excellent results but be sure to bead blast the SS prior to applying the product.




Please stop telling people to BEAD BLAST, as you are giving them flawed information.

I'm not sure if people don't understand the difference between bead and sand blasting, or if this is just an ARF myth that won't die, but there is a large difference. DO NOT BEAD BLAST if you are looking to top coat with Norrells, DC, GK etc..
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 8:49:30 PM EDT
Enforcer, Stick, I really appreciate it!

I have a S&W 5906 that internally looks great, and it shoots great, just saw a lot of time in a holster before I got it and was thinking of doing a black finish that I can give some genuine wear
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 10:22:22 PM EDT

I'm not sure if people don't understand the difference between bead and sand blasting, or if this is just an ARF myth that won't die, but there is a large difference. DO NOT BEAD BLAST if you are looking to top coat with Norrells, DC, GK etc..


Why is that? Texture difference or what?
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 10:28:17 PM EDT
ya why is that guys? I have a stainless 1911 that was just bead blasted and I was thinking about DCing it.....suggestions?
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 3:09:06 AM EDT
The biggest difference is that glass beads are round and sand, aluminum oxide and silicon carbide have angular shapes and take a deeper bite into the metal.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 5:07:21 AM EDT

Originally Posted By SIMPLYDYNAMIC:
ya why is that guys? I have a stainless 1911 that was just bead blasted and I was thinking about DCing it.....suggestions?




Have it sandblasted, as the bead blasted surface is too smooth for decent adhesion.

Link Posted: 1/19/2006 5:34:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/19/2006 5:35:35 AM EDT by eddienyr]
Jonathan where are you located in wa? I'm in marysville and I just finished my colt commander 1991A1 in Norrell's moly resin flat black soccom. This stuff is awesome easy to use. I purchased a mini sandblaster made by paasche that worked great. What are you trying to refinsh?


Hey Stick what state are you in?


Edwin
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 7:27:56 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Stickman:

Originally Posted By hdbint:
Duracoat or Norrel's molyresin.

Either will give excellent results but be sure to bead blast the SS prior to applying the product.




Please stop telling people to BEAD BLAST, as you are giving them flawed information.

I'm not sure if people don't understand the difference between bead and sand blasting, or if this is just an ARF myth that won't die, but there is a large difference. DO NOT BEAD BLAST if you are looking to top coat with Norrells, DC, GK etc..



I'll go to my hole now.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 7:28:53 AM EDT


Have it sandblasted, as the bead blasted surface is too smooth for decent adhesion.




Wouldn't it depend on the size of grit you're using in your grit blaster?
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 8:35:20 AM EDT

Originally Posted By ieatpriests:
Wouldn't it depend on the size of grit you're using in your grit blaster?



The SHAPE of the media maters more in this application.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 10:11:18 AM EDT

Originally Posted By stiles:

The SHAPE of the media maters more in this application.


Gotcha.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 12:45:56 PM EDT
Jonathan where are you located in wa? I'm in marysville and I just finished my colt commander 1991A1 in Norrell's moly resin flat black soccom. This stuff is awesome easy to use. I purchased a mini sandblaster made by paasche that worked great. I used aluminum oxide as my media. What are you trying to refinsh?


Hey Stick what state are you in?


Edwin
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 1:09:28 PM EDT
I concur. The only way to go is with a sharp media blasting. (Read sand or specialized media like aluminum oxide blasting) I have a nice sized cabinet and go back and forth from glass bead to several grades of aluminum oxide depending on application. Glass being round will close the pores of the metal. Aluminum oxide will open them because it has a sharp surface. I’ve used crushed walnut shells and triangle shaped plastic media on different items. Keep it sharp if you want to GunKote.

I forget to change media once and used glass bead on a pistol frame. About 10% of the GunKote flaked off. I ran it back through after switching to aluminum oxide and 100% stuck..

I love the stuff. I can’t imagine doing an AR in plain old parkerizing and anodizing.

Here is their site: http://www.kgcoatings.com/gunkote.html

Follow directions and everything will be fine.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 3:03:35 PM EDT
Scroll down to stainless steel blackener
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/metal.htm



Originally Posted By jonathon:
What would you guys recomend using to apply some sort of black finish to Stainless Steel? Something that doesn't flake or peel off, and should wear as good as park or blueing.

Anything I can do myself?

Link Posted: 1/19/2006 7:04:13 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 8:43:30 PM EDT

Originally Posted By hdbint:

I'll go to my hole now.





No need to banish yourself, I just don't want to see you or anyone else end up with problems. If I fail to mention something when I know its wrong, that makes me just as responsible as the person doing the work.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 8:51:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/19/2006 8:53:08 PM EDT by eddienyr]
Stick & Jonathan

When I get a chance I'll post some pictures. My next project will be my AR after I get the barrel cut.

Jonathan e-mail me, maybe if your close you can come over and use what I have?
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 3:00:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/20/2006 3:01:13 AM EDT by Cylinder]
What about using a fine sand paper? I would assume it gives similar finish than sand blasting. Further, I'd assume the technique used does not play the main part but the result. Any experiences?
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 4:38:45 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 10:59:51 AM EDT
Stick


Will heating the gun fully assembled ruin the temper of the springs?
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 1:13:11 PM EDT

Originally Posted By eddienyr:
Stick


Will heating the gun fully assembled ruin the temper of the springs?



No, the springs will all be fine. Quite often I coat the springs as well.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 1:14:51 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Cylinder:
What about using a fine sand paper? I would assume it gives similar finish than sand blasting. Further, I'd assume the technique used does not play the main part but the result. Any experiences?




Like Enforcer commented, it may be possible with enough time, but I've yet to see it ever turn out as well. The application method is different, and I've been less than impressed when I've done it.
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