I wanted an M4.  Had to have it.   I carried (on a very limited basis, according to post assignment) a GAU-5 as an Air Force Cop, and I really liked the compactness.  Beat the hell out of an A2 when posted with a long gun in a vehicle.  

Anyways, this past Sunday, the 4th, I bought a Stag Arms.  

Got all the goodies, BUIS, Aimpoint, foregrip & Surefire Light.  

Unfortunately, I have a few problems.  

First, how in the hell to I shut the damn stock up?
My god that little release lever at the bottom of the stock has more rattle than a Govt issue 40's vintage 1911.  Everything else about the gun is tight as hell, but the stock is about to drive me nuts.  I hate rattle, makes me think something is about to fall off.  

Second, well I guess this is my fault, as I never looked at or seriously considered a mid-length, but I have to push the foregrip as far forward as possible to be comfortable, and I still feel cramped.  I figure that this might be just me getting used to the shorter barrel, but Ive seen some guys with the grip almost to the mag well.  How is that comfortable?  Do you get used to it, or am I just weird?  

Third, I dont want to spend 200 + on a four rail handguard when I dont ever see myself purchasing more than two items (foregrip & flashlight) to stick up front.  The light mount set up that I bought is an offset angled type.  Mounting it underneath the handguard means moving the foregrip rearward, and per item 2 above, that is not comfortable for me.  Mounting it on top of the gun is my next choice, but I only purchased one rail, so I have to get a second one, but even that seems to move the light way off to one side of the gun.  Without spending bank, is there a mount that puts the light closer to the bore axis?  Short of duct taping the light to the handguards at about 2 O' Clock?

Finally, is there a good remote pressure switch available for the G2 Nitrolon?  Without paying $90+ from Surefire?

Thanks for the help guys.

I can't offer much, but they do make a little piece of picatinny rail that attaches to the side of the front sight base. This would get your light out front more and make it on line with the bore axis.

As for the stock, mine doesn't have much play it it at all. You may need to tighten it up some but others will have to chime in on the details for that one.

I was able to find a remote switch for the G2 which cost around $20-30 each. I will have to look through my e-mails to find-out where I ordered them from. I will post back on this thread once I find it.

ETA: Here is that switch I ordered. It was only $14.89, which wasn't bad at all.

Hope this helps.

Tony

Lots of options for the G2 here, including a reasonabley priced tapeswitch..

Orion,

As far as the vfg close to the mag well, I find for longer shots I like to have my elbows tight to my body for stability in offhand shooting. That may get flamed here but it seems to work well for me YMMV. At 5'-10" if my off hand is very far up on the handguard my elbow is "floating" in mid air and my stance isn't very stable.

Quoted: First, how in the hell to I shut the damn stock up?

VLTOR or a couple of strips of electrical tape on the receiver extension.

Magpul M93s are also perfectly quiet

, but Ive seen some guys with the grip almost to the mag well.  How is that comfortable?  Do you get used to it, or am I just weird?

With the VFG near the rear it allows you to put your elbow against your body thus allowing your off hand to handle the weight of the carbine much easier - an arm extended out has no mechanical means of support you are relying entirely on your muscles.

Without spending bank, is there a mount that puts the light closer to the bore axis?  Short of duct taping the light to the handguards at about 2 O' Clock?

See this link for an inexpensive option: groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/makeaflashlightmount.msnw

Or this one (there are commercial versions of this option in the $30-$60 range): groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/frontsitelightmount.msnw

Finally, is there a good remote pressure switch available for the G2 Nitrolon?  Without paying $90+ from Surefire?

Sure, contact Calvin (Brightflashlights) here on AR15.com (he has a section in the Industry section and he hangs out in the Lights & Lasers forum).  He has a good quality tape switch that should do the job for you at a lower cost.

The stock does not rattle, it is tight, it is the release lever under the stock.  The stock is tight collapsed or extended, it is the part you sqeeze to collapse the stock that rattles like Fred Sanfords junk truck.  

Also, I did some research on the ITI small rail.  It appears that you must drill two holes in the upper handguard to install this unit, if you do not want it to mount in the existing holes.  Anyone done this?  Not concerned about drilling, etc into the handguards, but I have always found that things go easier if you ask someone with experience first.  

As far as the vert grip goes, I guess its just me not being used to it yet.  

Oh well, practice, practice, practice right.  I guess I'll just have to force myself to get all touchy feely with my new gun.  

From what Ive seen here, most of you like the single point sling, but I have used a Giles from Wilderness Tactical for years on my personal SP1, and my issue A2.  I love it.  

Quoted: Anyone done this?

Several times.  I wouldn't do it on a double heat sheild - but on the single ones the best way to do it is to carefully remove the heat shield then reinstall it after you have attached the rail.

Oh well, practice, practice, practice right.  I guess I'll just have to force myself to get all touchy feely with my new gun.

Yeah tough life

From what Ive seen here, most of you like the single point sling, but I have used a Giles from Wilderness Tactical for years on my personal SP1, and my issue A2.  I love it.

Nothing wrong with a Giles 3 point, though I'm using his Single Point sling currently.

Unless you're married to that foregrip, I'd go with more of what you know, and are comfortable with.

Unless you are going to constantly adjust the buttstock, you can remove it, and replace it with a Cavalry Arms C1 buttstock.  It will bring your rifle to 36" overall, instead of 32" when the stock is collapsed.   You won't have rattle, and you will have a space for a cleaning kit, batteries, and a couple of spare parts.

I'm not a VFG user anymore.  I used to run it as close to the magwell as I could, but it would get in the way if I had to shoot off my pack or off a barricade...which was more often than shooting and using the gun as an impact tool.  I put it far out, because it is supposed to help with recoil, but I think you're right about it feeling like you are muscling the gun.  Bone to bone contact provides better stability.

You can get a small section (2") of rail and attach it to regular handguards, and run your flashlight (6P or G2) in a Viking Tactics mount, at either a 11 or 1 oclock position.  If you are right handed, and mount the flashlight at 11, then you can use your thumb to activate the switch (provided you shoot with your support hand thumb forward, facing the target.  I've never had good luck with tape switches, either resulting in light NDs or the whole thing stops working.

If you do decide to keep the VFG and light and want a rail system, then the Surefire M73 is a nice choice.  They are stable, solid, and well made.  They are a little slimmer than the Midwest Industries, the YHM, or even Knight's RIS/RAS, especially when you put rail covers on them.  Plus, none of the three require you to do anything like remove the delta ring...they snap in like regular handguards, more or less.

All the gadgets are cool, but at the risk of being an ARF.com heretic, haven't improved my abilities as a shooter.  Quality instruction and practice have improved my abilities.  To me improved abilities = fun.

As always, YMMV.

For the light, have you considered using the mount that fits on the front sight block?  Something like this would allow you to have a light and you'd only be buying one other rail; the one for the fore grip.

tag for light info

Not real hot about hanging something from the FSB.  

I am going to mount the light at 1100 on the handguards, keep the rail on the lower guard, and the guns done.  

I have what I wanted, a compact rifle, red dot scope, and light.

Nothing to re-learn, the hands already know where all the important controls are, just have to get used to turning on the scope and tapping the light switch.  

Ok, light is where I want it. Tapeswitch is done. Have gotten used to the VFG being close to the mag well.  I pretty much have the gun dialed in, and the Carry Handle and BUIS sights are on the money.  All in all, the gun is exaclty where I wanted it.  Still mulling sling options, and I think Ill play with a few more guns before making up my mind.  Wilderness Tactical is a 20 minute drive, and they have all their sling options mounted on Blue Guns.  Just need to make the trip.

Still baffled by the damn stock though.

As Ive said, the stock itself is tight.  The rattle comes from the release lever at the bottom of the stock.  It has a lot of play.  Does not hurt functionality, the stock does what it is supposed to do, but it seems as if the hole was drilled too big for the detent pin.  So I am thinking that Ill drive out the small pin at the detent cap (if my nomenclature is off, sorry, somebody shoot me the correct terms and Ill edit this) remove the detent cap as it appears to screw on/off and place an O ring on the detent.  Once I replace cap and pin, O ring should provide enough pressure to silence the rattle.  

Am I going about this right?  I have highlighted the area in this pic.

It sounds like the release lever needs adjusted ! Just pop the pin out and tighten the threaded donute enough to take out the excess play and reinstall the pin !

Quoted: It sounds like the release lever needs adjusted ! Just pop the pin out and tighten the threaded donute enough to take out the excess play and reinstall the pin !

Right.  What he was saying.  I don't think you'll need to use any o ring.  Just try tightening it first . . ..  and remember "lefty loosy righty tighty!"  If that doesn't work, then I'd say there's something wrong with your stock and stag needs to replace it for ya.