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Posted: 9/27/2004 3:50:50 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/27/2004 4:08:08 AM EST by Bklyn_Irish]
I am leaning towards Bushmaster but the price on the DPMS seems right as compared to Bushmaster catalogue price ($259). Where should I be looking?
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 4:34:54 AM EST
Get a stag lower from the equipment exchange, you should be able to find some good deals there.
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 5:59:05 AM EST
Is there any quality/function difference in different brand lowers, or is the difference just the stamp?

I know there are forged lowers and cast lowers,....but other than that whats the difference? Internals?

Also....which brands are know for a good tight fit to LMT uppers?
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 7:00:22 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/27/2004 7:07:44 AM EST by Bklyn_Irish]
How's their reputation? While the price is right, I know nothing about them and all I have found on their website are rifles with the controls on the wrong side!
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 7:55:36 AM EST
Any lower from any major company will be fine, as long as it's forged. With the exception of a few companies who make the walls a bit thicker, all lowers are CNC machined using pretty much the exact same blueprints (you can actually find them floating around the internet)...hence the term "mil-spec" or military specifications.
The biggest difference other than wall thickness is the coating that is put on. I use an Olympic Arms T3 MaxHard receiver and that is some tough stuff, but you pay for it. RRA supposedly has a really nice finish, I'll find out probably in a week or two when my upper (eventually) comes in.
Cast vs. Forged. Cast means just that, there is a mold, there is some really hot metal, the two meet, and make a part. Forged means that the part generally started out the same way as the cast and was given a general shape. Then it was put on a CNC machine and finished off. Simply put, avoid cast, go with forged.

For you lower though, just buy a stripped lower, a kit, and a stock kit (don't forget the buffer, buffer spring, and tube). Go down to Sears, pick up some roll pin punches, a rubber mallet, and a hammer (if you already don't have them). Then go online and buy a stock wrench, Fulton Armory's "Complete Assembly Guide", and a detent installation tool (believe me, it makes your life much easier when it comes to putting in that damn pin). Sit down one night, and put it together. You'll save a few bucks versus the completed upper ($100 for the lower, $60 for the parts kit, and you probably have most of the tools) and you'll know exactly how your rifle works.
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 8:11:39 AM EST

Originally Posted By caneau:
Any lower from any major company will be fine, as long as it's forged. With the exception of a few companies who make the walls a bit thicker, all lowers are CNC machined using pretty much the exact same blueprints (you can actually find them floating around the internet)...hence the term "mil-spec" or military specifications.
The biggest difference other than wall thickness is the coating that is put on. I use an Olympic Arms T3 MaxHard receiver and that is some tough stuff, but you pay for it. RRA supposedly has a really nice finish, I'll find out probably in a week or two when my upper (eventually) comes in.
Cast vs. Forged. Cast means just that, there is a mold, there is some really hot metal, the two meet, and make a part. Forged means that the part generally started out the same way as the cast and was given a general shape. Then it was put on a CNC machine and finished off. Simply put, avoid cast, go with forged.

For you lower though, just buy a stripped lower, a kit, and a stock kit (don't forget the buffer, buffer spring, and tube). Go down to Sears, pick up some roll pin punches, a rubber mallet, and a hammer (if you already don't have them). Then go online and buy a stock wrench, Fulton Armory's "Complete Assembly Guide", and a detent installation tool (believe me, it makes your life much easier when it comes to putting in that damn pin). Sit down one night, and put it together. You'll save a few bucks versus the completed upper ($100 for the lower, $60 for the parts kit, and you probably have most of the tools) and you'll know exactly how your rifle works.



Many, many thanks for your advice. Sounds like a good plan.
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 8:10:50 PM EST
If you go the STAG route from Eaglefirearms, they don't charge any extra to put the lower together. So a complete lower half, is the same price as buying a stripped lower + lower parts kit + stock. If I remember correctly Stag is the "house" brand of the company that make Rock River lowers, but I could be wrong.

FB
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 9:40:58 PM EST

Originally Posted By caneau:
With the exception of a few companies who make the walls a bit thicker



who makes the walls thicker and is there a fitting problem with different brand uppers?
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 5:02:58 AM EST

Originally Posted By bob332:
who makes the walls thicker and is there a fitting problem with different brand uppers?



RRA lowers have different dimensions and do not mate well with non-RRA uppers.
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