I'm thinking about building a RRA/Colt style 9mm Ar and have a couple of questions.

I'd like to go with a fake CAR stock but don't want to get a spacer if I don't have to. All the fake CAR stocks I see use a full length buffer and spring. Does anyone sell an actual pinned CAR stock with the short CAR buffer tube? I thought DPMS did but don't know for sure.

UZI mags- does anyone have instructions or a link on how to alter them, or, do you know anyone who does it cheaply? Also, how loosely do they fit in the receiver? I'm planning on getting a RRA adapter and upper.

I do know I'll also need to get a 9mm hammer and buffer. Is there anything else I'm missing?

Oh yeah. Who was that guy who made the fake cans that were so nice?

glklvr, glad you posted this thread. I too am wanting to build a 9mm AR and have the same questions. There is one more question I might ask; that is, what kind of cost are we looking at?I think I can answer at least two of you questions. First from what I hear with a Colt/RRA adapter the mags are pretty tight in the mag well. I have no info on altering UZI mags I am looking to buy an old colt mag to try to put together a template for altering the UZI mags. Second here is a link to fake suppressors:
[url]http://www.mfiap.com/airsoft/acce/m4-fake.htm[/url]
I know there was another guy on the board that built fake suppressors but I think I read he decided to stop building them, I'll look for the thread and get back to you. Hope this helps!!

If you decide to go the route of cutting Uzi mags to retain via the AR/M16 mag catch, USE THE "ASA" block-- the one that sets into the top of the lower..... joeblack has the notch location set up on a CNC mill, to locate the correct height, Lee Minor, and Mark Hayford can do it also, they all are similar pricing>>> and need you block you intend to use as a reference, as there seems to be some tolerance variation between blocks/makers.

I went with the "Hy-Tech" block, I got it for $120 and use plain Uzi mags as intended for Uzi originally.....
[img]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid73/pc3f559fe67d9e6ffa756a42fd5888d30/fb6773cd.jpg[/img]

Scroll down the forum here and read all the 9mm topics.... many of them branch out, many pics, and most of your answers are inside the misc threads. Go bathroom first, and get a snack, and drink, and cruise.

SBR- thank you very much for all the info. Is there anything particular that makes the ASA block better than the RRA block? I know that ASA has a somewhat lackluster reputation here and I wonder if that extends to their adapter.

YANKEE- Those fake M4 cans look hella cool. In terms of cost, I'm pretty much going with a RRA setup. I don't know if RRA will mix 'n' match what I want but:

RRA stripped lower, which I have-     $115
RRA lower parts set w/ 9mm hammer-     $63
Postban CAR stock w/ 9mm internals-    $72
RRA mag adapter from Legal Transfers- $125
RRA 9mm A3 Upper-                     $425
total                                 $800

plus associated shipping, of course
I'm also figuring on an allowance of approx. $35 per mag.

glklvr,
I didn't realize that RRA had a magwell adapter. Is it designed after the Colt system?

Both the ASA and RRA adapters are based on the Colt system.

[url]http://www.rockriverarms.com/9mm_parts.htm [/url]

Legal Transfers ( [url]www.ar15sales.com [/url] ) has the blocks for $125, less than RRA.

Edited to add: SBR (or anyone else)- I noted you said you were running an A2 buffer in your 9mm. I was under the impression that you had to have a 9mm buffer and CAR length spring. What's the deal?

[blue]
The Colt-RRA blocks are identiacl, install from the bottom, then are snugged/locked into place using an allen wrench to turn a tensioning screw.

I think ASA might have a Colt copy (install from bottom),,, but I hear more about and have seen-borrowed the ASA that drops in from the top....IT WILL NOT FALL OUT, and sets at same height every time removed/installed.

The fella whose ASA block I borrowed at Bulletfest recently, he uses his in M16, and bought a 9mm ASA barrel and bolt, had the barrel cut to 10", it works fine. For the price of ASA and RRA barrels, they do the same thing as the [b]$$$$ Colt[/b] barrel, just not chrome, but you can shoot out a lot more barrels, if you think you can in your lifetime with 9mm...[/blue]

GLKLVR: I think the 9mm buffer comes into play if you are using the short buffer tube. The std CAR buffer weighs about 2.8/2.9oz, and the A2 buffer weighs about 5.3oz. Mine works fine for semi-auto use.
Somebody will have to clarify the situation, as it was explained to me at 1 time long ago, but I know I can't tell you correctly, other than if you were going to go full-auto with 9mm, you will want to use a heavier buffer to keep the rifle running smooth,, I think my friend said he is using the "H" buffer in his M16 in both 556 and 9mm with the CAR stock.

That's what I was wondering. I noted that RRA sells a "9mm spacer" that is supposed to do something, I guess. They want you to put it in a full length buffer tube with a CAR spring and the 9mm buffer and I was just wondering if that is necessary or just a way to separate me from my money.

I didn't know the RRA block fit it from the bottom. That might make the difference for me as I did want one that went in from the top.

To answer your earlier question about the Hy-Tech block: I'm trying to keep this as close to Colt appearance as possible. I think a postban CAR stock, internal mag block and 16" barrel with faux suppressor would be sweet. Hell, a 9mm out of a 16" tube sounds almost "suppressed" anyway. [;)]

I'm planning on ordering my parts on Wednesday, so I'll let you guys know. It'll be my first build, and a fungun.

Scroll down through this one, it's in the General AR15 Discussion--
[url]http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=169356[/url]

I built my 9mm on a Rock River lower with a ASA upper and mag block.I used a ASA hammer.I prefer the ASA block to the RR because it drops in from the top(can't fall out)and uses your regular mag release button.(muscle memory)
I pinned my own CAR stock, I drilled a hole thru the mechanism and ran a lag bolt thru the hole and cut it off flush(both sides).If I were to try to remove the bolt, the stock the mechanism would be DESTROYED, INOPERATIVE(which means PERMANENT)
On my ASA mag block, some mags were tight, so I opened up the well. Remove the feed ramp and lightly file(front inside) out metal, until desired fit.(seems to help feeding)

I also convert my own UZI mags,got the idea from QuaterBores web site.(he actually converts Sten mags, but it works the same)With the mag block installed, pull out the mag catch and turn down below the hole.Insert the mag and leave a 1/8 inch gap between the top of the mag and ejector.(compare to a factory mag!)With a scrib trace the hole on to the mag.Remove spring and follower and cut out traced hole.(I use a dremel)As for the Fake Silencers his name is Chris and his web site is
www.geocities.com/chris_knipstein/
he does good work , but he was selling all his equipment.