I've got a lower receiver I'd like refinished using the moly resin process.  Does anyone know of someone near the L.A. area that can do this?  Thanks!

Buy the stuff and do it in your garage. You can do it, we can help!

And then you'll be able to do all your other stuff too.

The only problem is, it's my understanding that I need a compressor and airbrush to apply the coating.  I don't have either one.  

You can use a disposable air bottle with a hobby air brush

This is what I have used:  www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1196

I eventually got a regulator for my compressor, but the air bottle worked just fine.

Originally Posted By Doctor M14: The only problem is, it's my understanding that I need a compressor and airbrush to apply the coating.  I don't have either one.

$50 for the set at WalMart.. in the hobby section with the model airplanes.

Thanks for the info.  Maybe I'll give this a try myself.

I notice that on the moly resin website they mention that for best adhesion to sandblast the parts.  They made it sound as though sandblasting was optional but recommended.  Did you sandblast or not?  If so how much?  Do you just need enough to roughen the surface a little bit or are you trying to actually remove the factory finish?

You can get a real nice airbrush at Harbor Freight $12.99:
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93506

No, you don't have to sandblast an AR lower.  The anodized finish is more than rough enough to allow good adhesion.  It must be degreased well.  I just get a gallon of cheap lacquer thinner and soak in it in a bucket.  I bake in the oven in the kitchen.

Do not worry about getting the moly in holes, on threads, etc.  It goes on very, very thin and will not fill in serial numbers or other markings.

The cheap hobby airbrush is all you need.

OK, say you spray it and it has runs and looks like crap.  Until you bake it (to cure it) the moly will come right off with lacquer thinner.  You can always start over.

Man, you will have to be a real klutz to mess this job up.  

BTW, the Flat Black Socom will match most uppers, and vise versa.  Here is a picture of a DPMS lower and an old A1 upper that I sprayed with Moly Resin.  I put them together in this photo just to show the match of color and texture.

When YOU refinish your items you must post photos!

Thanks for the info guys.  This sounds easy enough to do myself.  My last question is, what color do I need?

I've got an M16A1 upper I bought from CDNN.  It is the Colt gray and doesn't match any of my lowers (RRA or Lauer).  

I see on the moly resin website there are two different colors for early M16s "Grayish-Black-Flat" and "Gray Flat".  Does anyone know which color I need?  I'm trying to build an M16A1 replica, and it would be great if I could get away with refinishing only the stripped lower and have it match the upper, instead of doing both the lower and the upper.  

I suppose if I spray the lower and it doesn't match, then I could also do the upper but for a first time project I'd prefer to only experiment on a $99 lower.  

Anyone use the new "Air Dry Black" moly resin?  How's it compare to the regular flat black?  I wouldn't have to worry about dealing with ovens if this works out nicely.    

I emailed Norells about that over a week ago and have not heard anything back yet.

Here is a pic of my CDNN upper and a lower in Grayish-Black, the color match is not perfect but good enough for me.