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Posted: 1/11/2003 8:42:01 AM EST
Did you ever go to your tube of used locktite and find it all dried up? This is NOT caused by being to old or air getting to it. What causes this, is that most people touch the tip of the bottle to the metal part being apllied to. As that happens, a chemical current (if you will, much like an electrical current) travels from the "METAL", up the locktite flow stream from the bottle and into the bottle itself. The CORRECT way to apply locktite is to "drip" it onto the part, or applicator tool. never touch bottle tip to metal. hope this helps.
Link Posted: 1/11/2003 8:48:41 AM EST
To help better understand this. Think of locktite as being a two part glue. part"A" is the locktite, part"B" the metal part(s). Locktite needs metal to activate it, and make it cure.
Link Posted: 1/11/2003 9:59:23 AM EST
Another thing one should consider when using a chemical thread locker, is surface area. If you have ever disassembled any mechanical component, you'll notice that most of the time only a "small" amount of locktite was used. Usually a single spot. I would never coat the entire circumference of any threaded area. One consideration would be that maybe the part was not designed(i.e. made of soft metal, or not enough grip or tool surface povided to loosen the part) for the torque reguired to loosen that part in the future.
Link Posted: 1/11/2003 10:36:24 AM EST
Loctite 242 and many others are "anaerobic", which means they only cure in an anaerobic enviroment. [url]http://www.loctite.com/datasheets/tds/Product_242.pdf[/url]
Link Posted: 1/11/2003 10:39:37 AM EST
There are various types of [b]LOCTITE[/B]. Some are for plastics as well. Rambosky
Link Posted: 1/11/2003 10:45:09 AM EST
What is the product number of the Loctite for small screws, the ones typically encounterd in small weapons. I "Think" it is Green in color. I know better than to use RED on small stuff. Not meaning to hijack thread, but since we're speaking of Loctite..... Thanks MM419
Link Posted: 1/11/2003 10:53:50 AM EST
yes, I'm referring to metal only, since this is where my experience lies. Notice also in the link above, different rates of cure for different metals. It's not so much that the loctite sticks to different metal better. It's the fact that the metal interacts with the loctite to aid and speed cure time. ..........Another thing that helps cure locktite is Pressure/heat/friction(torque), of the two metal parts
Link Posted: 1/11/2003 11:03:10 AM EST
Can I suggest cleaning metal parts of dirt, oil, etc., with CASEY'S "GUN SCRUBBER", or REMINGTON'S "REM ACTION CLEANER". This will leave part oil free. Followed by a wipe down with a clean cotton cloth. Metal preparation for loctite is CRITICAL!
Link Posted: 1/11/2003 11:06:35 AM EST
Please do not use locktite on your AR's. If you sell the AR, the next owner will be very pissed at you.
Link Posted: 1/11/2003 12:39:42 PM EST
Originally Posted By Waldo: Loctite 242 and many others are "anaerobic", which means they only cure in an anaerobic enviroment.
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So if I leave the cap off it won't set up in the bottle like, say, Elmer's Glue? [;D]
Link Posted: 1/11/2003 3:11:47 PM EST
Originally Posted By Fruit_of_the_Looms: So if I leave the cap off it won't set up in the bottle like, say, Elmer's Glue? [;D]
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I didn't make it up, read the data sheet. I've worked with that stuff for 20 years..
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