I posted this in GD for more input www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=391006
After some research I found the info listed below.
Originally posted by Zog Here @ Knifeforums.com
Now, for some simple instructions:I use very simple tools. When I first started I was told that I needed really complicated and expensive ones, but you don't.
What I use:
A Dremel Tool, with cutoff wheels, sanding drums, and a small spherical cutting bit.
A heat gun.
Whatever sheath coating you want to use (leather, rubber, etc.).
Chicago Screws and Mil-Spec Paracord.
(Plus safety glasses, thick cotton gloves, an apron, a well-ventilated workspace and a dust and fumes mask.)
First, preheat your oven to 300 degrees. Take a sheet of paper and fold it down the middle. Trace the knife onto the sheet on the center with half of the bolster on the paper, giving yourself a full inch around the knife as you outline it, so when you open the sheet, you have a mirror image on each side of the blade outline. Kydex shrinks as it heats up, and it never hurts to be careful.
Cut out the paper, then tape it to your Kydex. Use the cutoff wheel of your Dremel to cut out the shape of the
paper. Be sure to wear your mask, eye protection and gloves through the process!
Take this cut out piece, and put it in the oven on a flat cookie tray, rough side down. Let it heat up for 5 - 6 minutes. If you cook it too long it will shrink into a solid block. Before you take the heated Kydex out, get your "press" ready. You can use a couple of boards with molding foam epoxied on the inside, or a couple of phonebooks with towels in between them,whatever you can find.
Have your press set up, and your knife handy, and take the hot Kydex and wrap it around the knife like a taco, making sure that the spine is right down the center of the Kydex, and enough of the kydex is below the bolster to grip it.
Then press the Kydex around the knife using your press. After you've pressed it for a while, and allowed it to cool while pressed (takes several minutes). Take your knife wrapped in Kydex out, and test how tight it is. If it's too tight, use your heat gun to allow the Kydex to release a little. If it's too loose, find where it's too loose, and use your heat gun and well gloved hands to mold
it more tightly.
The really hard part is getting the tension right on the sheath's retention around the guard. You need to figure out how to mold the Kydex around the guard or bolster in such a way that it allows the knife to snap in and out of the sheath, and still allow enough tension not to let the knife ever fall out.
If you're using really thick Kydex (.125 or .093), you may find the small spherical cutting bit necessary on the Dremel to create the proper tension.
Now, cut off the excess Kydex (if your kydex was hot enough you've got a sealed seamless edge on your sheath). Drill holes wherever you want to put your tensioning and fastening Chicago Screws (or rivets, or whatever else you want to use).
Sometimes, the screws will be what it takes to make your tension exactly right. Now, sand the edges of the sheath as
necessary with the sanding drum to smooth them out.
Next step is to laminate your sheath with leather or coat it with whatever substance you'd like (make sure it will bond with plastic). If you're gluing anything to kydex I recommend E900 craft epoxy (you can find it in craft stores or even in Wal-Mart's craft section). It bonds very well and stays flexible even after it dries.
Yes if you are attacked by office furniture or hostage targets, I will guarantee your safety! ~ Aimless