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Page AR-15 » Maintenance & Cleaning
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Posted: 12/27/2005 2:16:16 AM EDT
brushes when your done cleaning your AR? I cleaned my guns yesterday and when I was finished I used WD-40 and sprayed my brass brush and my nylon brush. What else can be used?
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 2:25:34 AM EDT
[#1]
Dont use WD-40 period
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 2:56:13 AM EDT
[#2]
crc nonchlorinated brake cleaner .99 a can, works better than wd-40. You can also use Naptha (aka zippo lighter fuild).

edit, to clean your brush. note above fuilds can also be used to clean your AR.
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 3:55:59 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
crc nonchlorinated brake cleaner .99 a can, works better than wd-40. You can also use Naptha (aka zippo lighter fuild).




+1.

Friends don't let friends use WD-40.
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 12:33:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Thanks guys! I trust I can get the crc nonchlorinated brake cleaner at my local auto store. Should I get 2 new brushes or just reclean them with the brake cleaner?
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 12:37:01 PM EDT
[#5]
WD-40 is good for cleaning some of the gunk out in the field and displacing water, but as far as lube, it's pathetic.  As a cleaner it's not much better either.  As posted above, brake cleaner is the ticket.  It's essentially the same as Gun Scrubber.  MJD
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 1:58:08 PM EDT
[#6]
Brand of brak cleaner does not matter, just make sure it is non chlronaited.

Auto parts stores, Wally World Kmart all will sell them.
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 5:22:15 PM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
Thanks guys! I trust I can get the crc nonchlorinated brake cleaner at my local auto store. Should I get 2 new brushes or just reclean them with the brake cleaner?




just hit them with the brake cleaner
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 6:12:35 PM EDT
[#8]
You can get the brake cleaner at Wal Mart.
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 11:13:33 AM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
Brand of brak cleaner does not matter, just make sure it is non chlronaited.

Auto parts stores, Wally World Kmart all will sell them.



Check the markings on the can's as some brake cleaners have acetone it is, which while cleans well is harder on paint and plastics.  Can still use, but have to be a little more careful.

Myself also like the chlorniated solvents at times (use only with with very good venting, gloves etc.) as in moist weather does not tend to develope moisture from the air as much (differences in cooling etc.).  Note the chlorniated stuff is hard on your body parts and plastics, so take care.
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 4:00:39 PM EDT
[#10]
WD is pure poison.

I don't let the stuff in the house, and rarely allow the stuff on the property.

Plain old Isopropyl alcohol at 50 cents a bottle, works wonders for cleaning bore brushes, and for neutralizing ammoniated bore solvent residue.

WD gums up, freezes, breaks down plastics, and in general sucks!!!!!

Though I will admit that the generic equivalent from Wally World, works great for cleaning a motorcycle chain!!

Mineral spirits in any other form is cheaper.

S-28



Link Posted: 12/29/2005 4:15:06 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
Mineral spirits in any other form is cheaper.
S-28



+1

I use a 50/50 mixture of mineral spirits or turpentine and  Hoppes #9 to wash off parts. An old turkey baster  full shot into the lower receiver will wash out the crud accumulated from a days shooting.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 4:28:43 AM EDT
[#12]
WD is not worthless.  First, it does indeed displace moisture.  This is not so much of an issue with chrome bores, but after exposure to soaking rain - when I'm not able to clean right away - spraying the bore and wipe down of outside metal will keep things from rusting over the short term.  Repeat:  short term.  Go to Brownell's and do a search.

Lousy lube?  Yes, definitely.

Gunks up?  Not.  Do the following experiment:  spray a teaspoonful into......say.......a teaspoon.  Let it sit.......like forever.........when it congeals report back to me.  Best not hold your breath.  Does home heating oil congeal?  Why does this myth persist?  B/C WD's solvent vehicle penetrates and is free to sometimes interact with other lubes and greases.........displacing (duh!!) them to places they don't belong..........resulting in problems when the solvent is gone.

Cleaner?  Damned right it is.  Actually, it cleans at least as well as the wonder-fluid CLP.  No, make that cleans powder fouling better than CLP.  It does better with wad plastic (shotguns) than CLP.  Not as good a lube as CLP, not as good a preservative as CLP (Brownell's folks disagree here), but a better cleaner.

Let's be clear:  CLP is a better overall product for ARs.........no argument here.

Generic condemnation of any petroleum product is unwarranted.  Even 3 in 1 oil has it's uses.  You need to go to the effort of learning about the product in question so that you understand it's capabilities.  WD is no "worse" than lithium grease or sewing machine oil.  You have to understand the properties to avoid the pitfalls.

Rant off.

Sam
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 5:52:05 AM EDT
[#13]
WD40 is great for wiping down mags and cleaning the inside of the mags too.  I think it's mostly kerosene, same stuff Hoppes 9 has.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 8:58:00 AM EDT
[#14]
high parafin based oil will gum up in time.

worst oil you can use on a sewing machine is 3in1. BF CLP is what i gave my mother to use on the machine as a lube, has not been a guming issue since.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 9:17:39 AM EDT
[#15]
I received an old Ted Williams shotgun from a friend who got it out of his dad's basement.

The entire action was coated in a yellowy shellac like substance.  I was curious, so I asked him to ask what his dad used to clean/lube it.  It was WD-40 of course.  The thing hadn't been fired in a very long time, but the stuff did turn to shellac.
Page AR-15 » Maintenance & Cleaning
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
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