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Posted: 4/13/2010 7:10:14 AM EDT
I am currently waiting for my BCM stainless barrel and Vltor stainless clamp-on gas block to arrive, but I'm worried about how to install the gas block. I know the common answer is to red Loctite the screws, but If I ever have to remove the block, I'm worried applying the heat necessary will discolor both the barrel and gas block. So I have two questions that you guys can answer to help me:

1. Will a butane soldering iorn be able to apply sufficient heat to losen the red threadlocker on the clamp screws to remove them? I theorize this will prevent the gas block and barrel from discoloring because it will apply heat in a very specific location.

2. Would it be a good idea to use different bolts that allow me to saftey wire the two bolts eliminating the possibility of losening? If I were to saftery wire them, I would not use any Loctite. I like this idea better than the using red Loctite, but has anyone ever done anything like this on a firearm before?

Thanks
Link Posted: 4/13/2010 7:14:12 AM EDT
You clould use a heat gun to heat the block. I have removed the screws in my gas block with red lock tight with out any heat at all. Just make sure you use a good set of allen keys that won't strip and give them a little muscle and they will pop free.
Link Posted: 4/13/2010 8:18:20 AM EDT
use a red hot poker on the screw head.  It will work and the heat is only applied where needed.
Link Posted: 4/13/2010 11:46:21 AM EDT
You only need about 400°F to loosen red loctite.  Thats why it is not the best option for gas blocks...they can get over that temp under sustained fire.
Link Posted: 4/13/2010 3:34:19 PM EDT
I just installed the Vltor clamp on low profile gas block on my build.(18" WOA spr bead blasted stainless barrel). The block was real tight on my barrel and I oiled up the barrel and used a small screwdriver to gently pry the block open a bit so it would slide on without damaging the finish of the barrel. Bead blasted ss barrels get "shiny" real quick when scuffed. I used ss buttonhead screws to get it to clear a larue 12" rail. I didn't  loctite the screws. I will after test firing. It doesnt take very much tightening, Vltor gb are real tight toleranced units.
Link Posted: 4/13/2010 5:43:46 PM EDT
Quoted:
You only need about 400°F to loosen red loctite.  Thats why it is not the best option for gas blocks...they can get over that temp under sustained fire.


this is true.  you wont need to apply any heat at all after you put a few hundred rounds through it.
Link Posted: 4/17/2010 8:03:18 PM EDT
You won't need any loctite anywhere on a clamp-on base. If it only has the little set screws, then I'd consider blue or green medium strength.
Link Posted: 4/17/2010 10:15:24 PM EDT
Quoted:
Quoted:
You only need about 400°F to loosen red loctite.  Thats why it is not the best option for gas blocks...they can get over that temp under sustained fire.


this is true.  you wont need to apply any heat at all after you put a few hundred rounds through it.


+1 if you need to remove it just shoot it then loosen the screws. Plus I'd only use a small amount on such a small screw. I once used red loctite on 3" axel nuts on my quad(ATV) since they kept loosening and they never moved again; point is that stuff is crazy strong!
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