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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 9/5/2003 11:13:57 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/5/2003 11:14:46 AM EST by mattld]
Having just got my AR a little while ago I took it out to the range today with a printed up version of the Improved Battle Sight tutorial. Everything was going well until I got to the part with the allen wrench. I believe that accidentally I turned the screw too far and after turning it 2 clicks clockwise I went to re-tighten the screw...Only the screw had come out with the allen wrench. LoL. so I screwed it back in but now the sight bottoms out about -5 to -6 clicks of the 6/3 notch. Is there some way I can get back to the way it was....with it bottoming-out at 6/3? Thanks!
Link Posted: 9/5/2003 11:19:12 AM EST
Sure - reverse the process you used to get it where it is. Just loosen the screw and twist the top of the dial the other way 1-2 clicks.
Link Posted: 9/5/2003 11:41:25 AM EST
So wait...you are saying that I should loosen the screw, turn it clockwise until 6/3 is where I want it to bottom out at, then retighten the screw?
Link Posted: 9/5/2003 6:25:25 PM EST
Why is this so confusing? Remove the screw, turn the lower wheel to where ever you want it, put the screw back in.
Link Posted: 9/5/2003 8:16:35 PM EST
You don't even have to remove the screw; loosen it 2 complete turns [b]leaving the wrench in the screw[/b], then when you have the lower wheel where it needs to be, simply tighten the screw and remove the wrench. Btw, IIRC, the sight should bottom out at 6/3 MINUS 2 clicks; minus 4 clicks if it happens to have 1/2 MoA adjustments.
Link Posted: 9/5/2003 9:15:04 PM EST
How can I tell if it is 1/2 MOA adjustments? And also, I realize the simplicity of the procedure...it is just that if the screw is removed..and I turn the lower wheel...the hole for the screw moves with it...which doesn't allow me to just screw it in where I want it.
Link Posted: 9/5/2003 11:58:38 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/6/2003 12:05:36 AM EST by Zardoz]
Originally Posted By mattld: How can I tell if it is 1/2 MOA adjustments? And also, I realize the simplicity of the procedure...it is just that if the screw is removed..and I turn the lower wheel...the hole for the screw moves with it...which doesn't allow me to just screw it in where I want it.
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Sh*t.......just when I really need it for reference, the Maryland AR15 Shooters' site is having server troubles (actually though, it's MSN that's having the trouble, not the site itself). The lower wheel has more than one hole for the screw; once you loosen the screw, don't move the upper wheel. The way to tell wether your sight is a 1/2 MoA or standard is by the number of holes in the lower wheel IIRC, but since that page is currently inaccessible, take that with a grain of salt.
Link Posted: 9/6/2003 6:13:05 AM EST
Yeah that's what happened...after the screw had originally been accidentally removed, I moved the wheel and in the process shifted the upper wheel from its original hole. As of last night I found [b]that[/b] particular problem and now the screw is in a hole...it is just not the right one. Now my goal is to, I guess, keep working the wheel around according to the IBZ until it bottoms out a 6/3, unless someone knows a reference point from which I can find the original hole.
Link Posted: 9/6/2003 12:38:30 PM EST
No, the upper wheel, which has the range markings, has only one hole. The lower wheel is the one with all the holes in it. Like Zardoz said, just back the screw out enough that the wheels will turn independently then move the lower wheel to wherever you want it.
Link Posted: 9/7/2003 4:02:01 AM EST
and on this same subject, here's another question for you RKI's.... when you adjust your sights for the 50 yard BSZ, do you keep the rear sight set at 8/3 -2 clicks (completeley bottomed out) or at the 8/3 setting...?
Link Posted: 9/7/2003 4:22:13 AM EST
[u]With [b][i]IBSZ[/i][/b] the rear sight remains in the bottomed out position all the time, it is never moved in normal shooting.[/u] The only reason to adjust the wheel (and go thru the Allen screw drill) is to preserve the utility of the range markings. That is, on the rare chance you see targets at, say, 600 meters, you can click up to 6 and make them wonder where the bullets came from. In the bottomed out position the rifle is battlesighted from point blank to 220 meters without any adjustments in aiming point. Point and shoot. There are "click" differences between the 8/3 and 6/3 wheels. On USGI weapons the 6/3 wheels on detachable handles are in "half clicks" and the rear sight needs to be set to 6/3 -4 clicks. The 8/3 sights on fixed handles, including the early M4 Carbine, are in "full clicks." How to tell? Count the clicks between x/3 and 4. Should be 3 full or 6 half clicks. Set your rear sight appropriately. Resetting the rear sight is not a requirement of this battlesight zero, only a requirement if you want the range wheel numbers to be meaningful. If you don't care you can skip the Allen screw drill. But it takes maybe 30 seconds after you find the right Allen. I know of at least four (4) different upper wheels for this rifle system: 8/3, 6/3, Numbered, and Blank. They all interchange, so it's possible to have an 8/3 wheel on a "half click" rear sight -- hence the importance of counting the clicks to determine what rear sight you have. If you really mess up the Allen screw drill just remove the entire sight, catching the ball detents, and assemble the two wheels on the desk and replace. -- Chuck
Link Posted: 9/7/2003 4:29:07 AM EST
thanks chuck - i'm heading out to the range today to IBSZ two uppers to prepare for a carbine class, and wanted to get it right. i've followed the procedure for getting the rear sights adjusted (have one that is an 8/3, and one that is 6/3 on a detachable handle). anyway, so i have both rear sights completeley bottomed out, and will then adjust the FRONT sight to hit point of aim at 50 yards---then i'm set, correct?
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