I have a noveske barrel that came pre drilled and pinned with the gas block installed.
I took the barrel apart and sat it aside while I gathered the rest of the parts to complete my build.
Some time passed, I never finished the rifle due to lack of funds/ moving.
Fast forward a little bit as I unpack and set up the garage.. I cannot for the life of me find the corresponding gas block...

So here's my question.
What are the odds of re drilling a gas block and having it match your pre drilled barrel? I already called noveske, they said they're too busy to accept the barrel and re drill it..

Now I know I can just dimple the barrel and it'll be rock solid. My only concern is one of the screw holes might be overlapping the already drilled portion of the barrel, thus taking away some of the screws "grip"

I've never had a noveske, but the barrels I have with pinned gas blocks still have a set screw, so it wouldn't be a problem on the barrels I have.

Dimpling doesn't make it more secure, it just helps to line up the hole.

It depends on the pin you want to use. If you are using a taper pin, you should know how they work and how to drill for them first. You will need the drill to predrill it to the proper size and then you will also need the taper reamer (2-0).

You can also simply use a roll or spring pin and drill for that. Again, you should know beforehand how it works. The hole for these needs to make the pin compress and fit tight. I've done both of these (one ironically on a noveske barrel to which I misplaced the taper pin) and both methods worked fine

My Noveske barrel is drilled for a 1/8" straight pin and I have the exact same problem as OP.

I want to replace the Gas block with an adjustable but I have been hesitant because I don't know the correct way to drill the pin hole in the Gas block and put it it in the exact right place.

I've asked on here before and was told to find a competent gunsmith.

I'd still like to know how to do it myself though.

Oddly enough, mine was a taper pin....

If you have a drill press, it's extremely simple to do, especially for a straight hole.

Make sure you have a vise as well and a reliable stop. Line up the barrel in the vise so that the drill is lined up with the existing hole perfectly (make sure you have the correct drill size for the pin type you're using). Then set the stop so that you can indicate the barrel back to that same spot (I do a verification by removing it once and replacing and lowering the drill to ensure it didn't move). Remove the barrel from the vise and place the gas block on it properly and place the barrel back in the vise against the stop. Now drill though the gas block. Use plenty of tapping oil/fluid and I prefer pecking as opposed to a plunging movement. Once drilled, insert the pin. You're done!

As @jparish62 said, it's a straight forward task after the correct setup.  The right tools make the difference between near perfect results and the walk of shame into a competent Smith's shop and paying him to fix your mistake.  I have a good drill press with quality XY vise but I tend to do this work in the mill because the repeatability and accuracy with DRO's is much better and easier than the drill press.

As do I. I just made the assumption that not everyone has access to a mill.

This is the exact answer I was looking for.
I was making things overly complicated measuring from the shoulder etc.
thank you