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11/24/2017 4:44:23 PM
11/22/2017 10:05:29 PM
Posted: 9/25/2004 9:18:21 PM EST
I figured I would post this topic like this because of how many people are trying it, and how many posts have been made about the subject. Many new members here aren't used to using the search engine and haven't seen the previous posts on the subject.

BUSHMASTER USED RED LOCTITE UNDER MY Y-COMP ALONG WITH THE WELDED IN SET PINS

The only right way to remove red Loctite is with heat. I used a lighter to heat up the Y-comp before easily screwing it off.

Hope this helped.
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 10:53:57 PM EST
I just did another Y-Comp removal for a friend. The 2nd time sure is easier than the first! Anyway, the lighter was still enough heat to remove the break easily once the pins were removed.

Here are some things to watch for:

The pins are SMALL. They are found towards the back edge of the break itself, and not nessesarily in the middle of the weld mark. Go slow. The pins are located about 1/8" down so you'll have to grind deep.

DO NOT try to grind the entire pin out. The head of the pin is PAST the barrel threads. Once you see the pins, try to see if you can tap them loose with an icepick. They aren't touqued down that hard and can easily be dug out depending on where you are with your grinding. I am sure that if you get it REAL close, they may even just fall out if the barrel is turned over.

If the comp is heated sufficiently, the brake should twist off by hand once the initial grip is broken. If it's harder than that, try heating the break a little more.

It's a good idea to wrap some tape on the barrel before starting to grind. It only takes a few seconds to do, but will give you a little bit 'o extra insurance that you won't scratch your barrel while grinding. It also helps with the heat generated by the grinding, and provides a little more comfort for your hands while doing the job. Remove the tape BEFORE heating of course. ;)

I know it may be obvious, but the comp has a RH twist. Righty tighty, Lefty loosey. (counter clockwise when viewed from the front of the gun.

Wear some safety glasses. No exceptions. Hearing protection if nessesary. A 3M dust mask is a good idea too.

Make real sure to clean the gun thouroghly after removing the comp. That metal dust gets everywhere.

I used the Carbon (black) cutting wheels on my dremel to do the entire job. I used a cutting stone the 1st time around, and the black discs are a LOT faster.

I'm not making this post to get any responses, just to get info out to you all. It took me around 2 hours to do the removal the first time around because I didn't know what to expect or to look for. The 2nd comp took me 20 minutes at a relaxed rate. Hope this helped.

E
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 7:48:47 AM EST
How did you permanently attach the new Flash Suppressor?

thanks,
Joe
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:04:58 AM EST
Well Joe...I didn't, actually. All I did is replace the Y-Comp with a 5 hole Phantom that I re-Loctite back on, (along with the crush washer that was supplied with the Phantom brake).

With the AWB Sunset it's no longer nessesary to permanantly fix a Flash Hider or Comp to a threaded barrel. What is crucial is overall barrel length, which is why I used the Phantom. It's one of the longer brakes available at just a hair under 2 1/4". When set on the 14.5" Bushmaster barrel I'm well clear of the 16" regulation length minimum.

The reason I used Loctite again is to insure that the FH doesn't work itself loose over time. However unlikely that may be it could happen, so why take the chance? Like I said Joe, once the red (it has to be the RED) Loctite is cured, that FH is going no where without heat to re-soften it.

Bushmaster makes a brake called the "Izzy" that meets the length requirement, and they also sell an AK47 type brake that should do the job also. The Phantom is the best looking as far as I am concerned though. :)

I hope this answered your Question. IF you insist on permenantly fixing your new FH on your barrel, you would most times need to re-finish the brake with some sort of coating to cover the weld & bare metal that you'd end up with if you decided to go with the pin & weld method. For such a small area, I'm sure some high heat automotive exhaust paint would do the job well. I've sprayed a couple of old 5.5" Flash Hiders with the stuff with decent results as far as look & durability. Just remember to heat the FH a little before painting the high heat paint on. Shooting the stuff on cold metal will sometimes lead to peeling due to the heat expansion of the metal during firing.

E
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:08:57 AM EST
Thats weird, I dont see any pins or welds on my mini Y comp? Do you guys have pictures of how to remove this thing? I read your advice but still feel a little in the dark.....
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:14:31 AM EST

Originally Posted By Atreides:
With the AWB Sunset it's no longer nessesary to permanantly fix a Flash Hider or Comp to a threaded barrel. What is crucial is overall barrel length, which is why I used the Phantom. It's one of the longer brakes available at just a hair under 2 1/4". When set on the 14.5" Bushmaster barrel I'm well clear of the 16" regulation length minimum.



Whoa there. The AWB has nothing to do with the minimum length of the barrel. Its still 16" minimum. A 14.5" barrel has to have a FH permanently affixed (blind pin or solder) to make it 16". A 14.5" barrel whithout a permanantly affixed FH has to be SBR'ed or it is a NFA '34 violation.
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:16:15 AM EST
Jivana,

Look carefully at the base of the y-comp for what looks like a discolored circle. There will be one at 12 o'clock and another at 6 o'clock. There may be some fine sand scratches around the circle as well. The pins are buried under these welds, which is why you need to grind the comp down. They won't be visable until you actually hit them, as the welds used on the comp are steel welds, the same material as the comps themselves.

Also, check to see if there's a washer under the comp. If there isn't any washer there, your barrel may not be threaded. (From what I have been told by others here on this site)

Hope this helped.

E
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:25:05 AM EST
Well sitting behind the comp is a silver circle (washer I assume). Is this what your talking about?
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:28:32 AM EST
Sorry, you're right of course Ghost. I misuderstood the threaded barrel thing. Anyway, I have no plans of ever removing my Phantom brake. This of course is no excuse, but with the Loctite in place I welcome anyone to try and remove the brake without using heat. It is as permenant as it will get for me.

As for my friends gun, I will inform him of what you taught me today, and leave the decision up to him on what he wants to do. I could easily replace the pins and mig them into place at the shop. I didn't want to mess with the coating on the Phantom which is why I am electing t go the way I'm going. I'm not saying it's right and by no means am I encouraging anyone else to do the same now that you gave me the heads up Ghost, but for me that suckers going nowhere. It IS permenantly fixed as far as I am concerned. I have no plans on selling this gun either so no liability will be handed off to someone else. Thanks for the information & correction Ghost, it's greatly appreciated.

E
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:29:11 AM EST
Yes Jivana, that's the washer.
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:30:03 AM EST
atf is very specific regarding what constitutes PERMANANTLY affixing a fh to make 16"

it ain't loctite

fix it or your next trip to the range may be your last

good luck
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:31:08 AM EST


Whoa there. The AWB has nothing to do with the minimum length of the barrel. Its still 16" minimum. A 14.5" barrel has to have a FH permanently affixed (blind pin or solder) to make it 16". A 14.5" barrel whithout a permanantly affixed FH has to be SBR'ed or it is a NFA '34 violation.


+1...You sir have an unregistered SBR..the minimum without FH is 16"
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:37:52 AM EST
Atriedes, so let me get this straight. I will grind down on those pins until they look like they are gone, and then what? put heat on the comp? and then ? twist it off??? Also it has become clear that something will have to be reattached permanently, can I take this barrel to a gunsmith and have them reattach a permanent flash suppresor?
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:42:18 AM EST
Thanks again for the advice gentlemen. I did what I did to save me the trouble and expense of buying another barrel, but as it turns out, looks like I'm going to have to buy another barrel anyway. I HATE the Y-Comp. It takes away all of the enjoyment of shooting.

After some thought, I'm gonna mig my FH on today. I'll just shoot the thing with the heat paint like I said. I'll probably end up getting another upper anyway just so's I can get a 16" barrel and not have to worry bout anything. Buying the Bushmaster with the Y-comp was a mistake for me on hindsight, but I guess "live & learn" eh? LOL!
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:43:26 AM EST
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:46:08 AM EST
It doesn't have be attached in a manner that satisfies you, it has to satisfy THE MAN.
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 9:56:31 AM EST
Jivana,

Those marks on the FH are NOT the pins themselves. The pins are buried underneath those marks. The "pins" are actually small set screws that were tightened down in small threaded holes that were then "filled up" with welding. The welds are steel, and not solder, as I found no difference in how hard the filler was as opposed to the metal of the comp itself.

Start your grind where you see the weld mark. Like I said, the head of the pin will be an 1/8" or so deep under all that filler. Once you hit the pins, you will see a little circle appear. These are the actual pins.

I guess you could take your barrel to a gunsmith after you get your new FH on and have them set it. I wouldn't recommend solder though, as it it a very soft weld and in my opinion, not all that much stronger than the Loctite, especially when welded to blued of parkerized steel. The solder will however block access to the set screws, which is the whole point.

Had the original fill been solder on the Y-comp, the job would be way easier than it is. I could have simply drilled out the filler instead of grinding it.

The way I'm now planning to fix my new brake is the same as what Bushmater did. I will drill 2 small holes ( a little bigger than the orgininals just to make tapping them easier for me) and fixing 2 hex head set screws till the screws hit the threads. I will then Tig-weld over the holes, grind down the access material, sand the stuff smooth, and paint it.

Hope this helped.

E
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 10:02:09 AM EST
Steel welding is SUPERIOR to Silver Solder Gentlemen, and it's how I plan to set the FH on permenantly. What I ground off the Y-comp didn't "feel" like Silver Solder to me, so I am re-attaching the new FH like how I found it fixed in the 1st place.

All it will take is 2 little spots of TIG welds and I'm done. Heat will be centrualized to the spots so I can avoid excess heating of the barrel.
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 10:21:02 AM EST
Silver solder is an appropriate way per BATF to attach in a permanant manner, set screw or blind pin and weld is another. Glad to see you are doing it the right way, I'd hate to see your dog get shot
Link Posted: 9/29/2004 7:28:46 PM EST
Well, my FH isn't going anywhere soon. It is securely welded in place. It was a lot easier than I thought, and the finish came out really really nice. Using the slightly larger set screws worked out great. It made the welding easier.
Link Posted: 9/30/2004 5:14:29 PM EST
Thanks Guys, good info...

Atreides, any chance you could post some pics?

---
joe
Link Posted: 9/30/2004 7:09:14 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/30/2004 7:16:48 PM EST by gman1024]
I know of the two ways the BATF has said to make it permanently, but what about some high temp epoxy? It wouldn't mess up the finish like other methods can. As long as it meets the 1100F mark?

Note: I have mine permanently attached from the manufacturer, but this was just an idea that I thought of and was curious if anyone had tried it.

Edit: I was in quite a hurry and committed many typos!
Link Posted: 9/30/2004 7:39:05 PM EST

Originally Posted By druncuncas:
atf is very specific regarding what constitutes PERMANANTLY affixing a fh to make 16"

it ain't loctite

fix it or your next trip to the range may be your last

good luck



The range police measure my gun every time out. Watch your six. They are under cover.........
Link Posted: 9/30/2004 7:54:24 PM EST

Originally Posted By wildearp:

The range police measure my gun every time out. Watch your six. They are under cover.........



Range Police? I hope you are being sarcastic.

~Crp
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