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Posted: 8/15/2017 5:06:44 PM EST
I have a 3-15 FFP SFWA Mrad scope on my AR. I'm sighted in dead on at 100 yards. Ballistic chart says the drop at 200 yards says 3.2" and the drop in mills is .5 and I understand 1 mill is 3.6" at 100 and 7.2" at 200.  So the mil drop at 200 yards is about a half mill - got it.

My reticle is in half mill increments - so . . . to shoot 200 yards, I just want to verify that 5 clicks up on the elevation turret ( .5 mills ) is the same as using the first half mill increment on the reticle?  Thanks.


 
Link Posted: 8/15/2017 7:44:34 PM EST
Going up 5 .1 MIL clicks would be the same as holding at the first hash mark below the center of the reticle.
Link Posted: 8/15/2017 10:42:47 PM EST
Thanks.
Link Posted: 8/15/2017 10:54:24 PM EST
Once you get the dope figured out, do yourself a favor and make a dope card with the math. It is a great thing to have on hand when you are still learning your scope and dope. Ideally you can do it in your head, but having a cheat sheet to confirm your math is always helpful.
Link Posted: 8/17/2017 11:37:01 AM EST
Do yourself a favor and try to think only in whatever your scope is calibrated in. In your case, as your scope is milradian based, the inches dont matter. Your zeroed at X distance, the drop to Y distance is (z)mil, adjust to Z in the scope; either by holding or dialing. 
Link Posted: 8/17/2017 2:41:50 PM EST
When establishing a dope chart, what info do you guys collect/measure on each round? Or how so you go about gathering info after ensuring you're zeroed at 100...and trying to push past that @ 200-300-etc..
Link Posted: 8/17/2017 5:23:38 PM EST
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Originally Posted By Subiescott:
When establishing a dope chart, what info do you guys collect/measure on each round? Or how so you go about gathering info after ensuring you're zeroed at 100...and trying to push past that @ 200-300-etc..
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There are some good free ballistics calculators out there that can help predict bullet performance for a given muzzle velocity, and project out things like velocity, drift and drop at various ranges. That usually gets you "close" to where you can go then and confirm the dope. In confirming the dope it is important to fire the rifle at some of the known distances and confirm your scope (or even adjustable mechanical sites like the AR15) dope is correct. It isn't uncomong for the calculations to be off just a bit here or there depending on different assumptions built into the calculation.
Link Posted: 8/24/2017 12:31:40 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ACPjunkie:
Do yourself a favor and try to think only in whatever your scope is calibrated in. In your case, as your scope is milradian based, the inches dont matter. Your zeroed at X distance, the drop to Y distance is (z)mil, adjust to Z in the scope; either by holding or dialing. 
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This, this, this, this. Remove the entire concept of inches from your brain when you're shooting. MILs, MILs,MILs, and only MILs. Your scope is MILs only. Your dope card should be in MILs only. Your brain should be in MILs only. This is the #1 thing that I've seen trip up new guys in this game.
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