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4/22/2019 5:32:20 PM
Posted: 8/21/2006 9:31:41 AM EDT

Link Posted: 8/21/2006 9:37:18 AM EDT
You'll have to drill it then tap it for a bipod stud.

(assuming it does NOT have pre-drilled hole)

Mike
Link Posted: 8/21/2006 10:19:50 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/21/2006 10:21:40 AM EDT by engineer2001]
Yep - drill, then put a stud in like this one:
DPMS bipod stud for FF tubes
Link Posted: 8/21/2006 10:39:13 AM EDT
Looks like the bushamster FF handguard. I took mine to my local smith, he drilled tapped and threaded in a new stud. I think it cost me about $15.
Link Posted: 8/21/2006 5:04:51 PM EDT
Brownell's has a backplate that accepts a swivel stud after drilling a hole in the FF tube. Swivel stud and backer are about $10 I think, it has more "meat" to it than drilling and tapping the tube.
Link Posted: 8/21/2006 7:54:41 PM EDT

Originally Posted By engineer2001:
Yep - drill, then put a stud in like this one:
DPMS bipod stud for FF tubes


i used one like that, hastnt moved in years. just make sure the handguard is tight before you drill the hole or it wont be centered.
Link Posted: 8/21/2006 8:25:48 PM EDT
Harris Adapter Stud Swivel #5 AR-15 is for that purpose, that's what I used to mount a bipod on my FF tube.

www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=404111

Link Posted: 8/22/2006 5:42:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2006 5:42:54 AM EDT by DakotaFAL]
Drilling and tapping can (and most likely will) create an indexing problem for the stud. You are better off using a lock nut on the inside of the tube and/or a backping plate designed for that purpose.

I'll also agree you want to be extremely sure that the freefloat tube is tight and that the hole is properly centered in the tube or you will find your rifle permanently canted when on a bi-pod (unless you level the legs each time -a real PITA). Given the height of the optics or iron sights above the bore on an AR, canting errors get to be pretty serious as the range increases.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 4:02:54 PM EDT
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