Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
10/20/2017 1:01:18 AM
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 1/25/2012 9:05:56 PM EDT
My retro rifle is still in the process of being finished but, there is something I have been wondering about. When it was assembled a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the trigger pull seemed pretty darn heavy and not very crisp.

What can be done to improve trigger pull quality? The trigger and hammer appear to be in good condition and don't show much wear. The FCG and springs are of unknown origin. I did just get a Fulton Armory spring kit to replace some detent springs but, the kit also included trigger and hammer springs. Should I swap those in?

Any ideas on this subject?
Link Posted: 1/25/2012 9:28:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/25/2012 9:39:13 PM EDT by Cdenmark]
I use a combination of JP yellow, TTI reds, and Colt M-16 springs to get the desired 5 lb pull. Keep in mind standard pull is around 8 lb and designed for a FA battle rifle/carbine. The milspec springs could all possibly come from the same place but all are a little different so swapping is a great idea in my opinion. I use authentic Colt semi auto FCG parts and work them just a little with moly lube and a minute tweak here and there. I also swap parts around until I get my desired result. Little to no creep and a nice crisp break. Four or five FCG sets will all be a little different right out the bag but still in spec. Usually takes about 30 min but have spent as much as 3 hrs on a FCG. For this method you will need some spare parts in the bins.

Who's LPK do you have?

A JP trigger, TTI hammer and M-16 disconnector spring usually comes up between 4.5-5.5 lbs pull. Then I start swapping parts to dial in. I shoot multiple AR's and try and set all my personal FCG's as identical as I can and also prefer a single stage trigger. Never had a FTF in well over 20K rds with an AR. One day it's not gonna go boom but until then no FTF's (Fail to Fire). Have fun.

I started out with a DPMS lpk in my first build and worked it a little here and there over time until I could find/accumulate some spare parts. My first lower had a set screw in it and I could adjust the creep until I figured out what was going on. Already had a trigger pull guage from working on bolt guns (mostly Mausers) and read a lot. Brownells a site vendor has the reduced springs pretty cheap. Good luck!
Link Posted: 1/26/2012 4:40:11 AM EDT
For about $100 you could buy a Rock River two stage trigger that will meet your needs right out of the box.
Link Posted: 1/26/2012 8:46:02 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/26/2012 8:47:44 AM EDT by m1carbinekid]
I don't know who made the LPK, the rifle came assembled and I didn't get any history on the build from the seller. What lube points should I pay attention to in FCG?

Also I've considered getting an aftermarket 2-stage trigger but, I like to keep me military rifles original. I sure would love it to have a 2-stage trigger like my M1 though...
Link Posted: 1/26/2012 9:31:37 AM EDT
It's easy to polish the engagement on the trigger, and to lessen and polish the hammer hook. Just go slow and use actual stones.

+1 on the JP springs.
Link Posted: 1/28/2012 2:49:52 PM EDT
I've never had any luck modding a standard trigger, and if you do it wrong, you could end up with an accident, a runaway gun, or the BATFE claiming you were making a machine gun. There's a guy in a jackpot about that right now; if you have to DIY, be careful.

A better alternative is to buy a quality drop-in trigger group that looks 'period' in your gun. I finally put a Geissele SSA in my A1 clone, having lost confidence in a modded trigger group that I bought (see above). Fully realize that the two-stage isn't technically correct, but it makes the rifle a hell of sight easier to shoot well.
Geissele is reported to be in the process of introducing some improved GI triggers under a different name. No way to know how well they'll work, but I'd be confident with Geissele's reputation.
Link Posted: 1/28/2012 5:00:07 PM EDT
+1 for the Rock River two-stage, which are commonly findable on EE for (+,-) $75 or $80.

+3 or 4 for the Geissele triggers, but they will cost twice the price of a new RR.

Pretty sure Geissele makes a single stage also, but have no experience with them. But if Geissele makes it, most likely it would be good to go. The man is a wizzard.
Link Posted: 1/28/2012 5:44:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/29/2012 11:34:03 AM EDT by Cdenmark]
OP wanted to know how to make a milspec FCG perform like it should, not buy a $200 plus FCG. Seen more than one customer ditch their out the box two stage RRA for one of mine and not look back. No Jack Beanstalk Beans just good quality components with a little finesse for a decent price. They really impress those who have fired 1000's of rds before the new barrel money FCG's were even invented, for their survival. I believe in the KISS equation and keep my extra coins for things like investments and retirement. Definately not gonna knock someone who spends more in a FCG than some uppers I've built but they aren't necessary to hit what you shoot at and never have a hiccup.
Link Posted: 1/29/2012 6:48:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/29/2012 6:54:33 AM EDT by halfmoonclip]
The new Geisseles (and as I said, they will be marketed under another name) are to be less than $100. I paid $160 for my SSA(s). More than I wanted to spend, but that graunchy, gritty, heavy trigger was something I just couldn't deal with any more. All my ARs (A1, A2 & .22) now have the same trigger pull, so there's no surprise when switching. When I see the bling hung on rifles, money on a good trigger is well spent. YMMV.

As regards the OP, I was telling him my experience with modded FCGs (done by me or others) had not been positive, and perhaps it wasn't the best course to follow. The Geisseles work, there's no screws to come out of adjustment, and they are durable. I like to be able to say 'I did it myself', but some things you have to leave to real experts, IMHO.

Top Top