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Posted: 9/26/2004 5:10:55 PM EST
OK, I'm looking to build an upper on the cheap and want to install a rifle length free float tube on a 16" barrel. I found a cheap barrel but it has the front sight installed. How difficult is it just to shave the sight down?
From anyone who has done it, how did you do it and how hard is it?
Sorry if this has been asked before but I couldn't find anything with a search.
Thanks!
Link Posted: 9/26/2004 8:11:46 PM EST
Why don't you just knock out the taper pins holding the front sight base in, and replace it with a low-profile one? Alternatively, you could just hacksaw off the base ABOVE the gas tube, then smooth it with a file and/or Dremel. Then just cold-blue the exposed steel. The FSB is forged steel, so you should make sure you have fresh blades in your hacksaw.
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 12:50:03 AM EST
this is what i am about to attempt, same plans as mentioned except i'm using a superlite barrel so i will have to shave down the fsb. there is no other option for me. i have looked at it and i think i will chave just enough to clear the ff tube
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 3:07:17 AM EST
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 5:07:04 AM EST
Not sure where I saw it, but someone is making a small gas block that will fit under FF tubes......You might look around a bit more. It will save you time and a possible headache.
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 5:16:03 AM EST
Bushy has a lowprofile gas block they use on their V-match
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 5:22:50 AM EST

Originally Posted By Rusty69:
Not sure where I saw it, but someone is making a small gas block that will fit under FF tubes......You might look around a bit more. It will save you time and a possible headache.



Yankee Hill makes one, but really, people have been shaving the front site for a long time. Plus it is another part that you don't have to buy. Just make sure you don't mess with the gas tube area and you will be fine.

Link Posted: 9/27/2004 5:26:32 AM EST
Not difficult at all. I used a dremel cutting wheel to cut it down and a sanding drum to shape, then crocus cloth to "shoe shine" it into finished shape. Cold blue worked to cover up the bare metal. It was simpler to cut down and use the original FSB; same taper pins and cross cuts for taper pins.
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 3:12:43 PM EST
Here's how mine came out.
And it does fit under a FF tube.
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 3:22:28 PM EST

Originally Posted By thezman:
Here's how mine came out.
And it does fit under a FF tube.
img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/powderfinger/FSB.jpg




Woo! Looks "silky smooth"

Nice job.
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 3:32:22 PM EST
I was just going to say call Yankee Hill
Link Posted: 9/27/2004 3:48:49 PM EST

Originally Posted By mcgrubbs:

Woo! Looks "silky smooth"

Nice job.



Thanks to a Baldor buffer.

Link Posted: 9/27/2004 7:18:25 PM EST

Originally Posted By thezman:
Here's how mine came out.
And it does fit under a FF tube.
img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/powderfinger/FSB.jpg



That's DEAD SEXY!!!

That looks better than 70% of the low profile blocks out there. It does look like it could be a bit fragile, but it sounds like you are using it underneath a freefloat forearm.

Very nice work.

Who makes the product you used to blacken the steel?
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 1:27:22 AM EST
daym thats nice
Link Posted: 9/28/2004 6:29:38 AM EST
Thanks for the compliments guys.

No, it's not underneath the handguard, I was just stating that it would fit under one.

And true it may not be as strong as one that wasn't cut down as much, but I dont use this gun as a hammer so it didn't much matter to me. I was going for the streamlined look.

It was roughed out with a dremel (EEK) and files and then polished smooth on a buffing wheel.
Then it was bead blasted and hot blued. I can't recall the name of the company that makes the blueing salts, but I'll know tomorrow as me and my gunsmith are going to blue some stuff.

Larry
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