

Originally Posted By ARS24-7:
Not sure if true but I’ve read that powdered sugar works as a substitute for rosin. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ARS24-7:
Originally Posted By 6GUNZ:
Originally Posted By bpm990d: That is why you put powdered rosin on the block. Brownells use to sell a lifetime supply in a plastic bottle but they don't seem to carry it any more. You can get it on Amazon. B |
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Weapons compound man's power to achieve; they amplify the capabilities of both the good man and the bad, and to exactly the same degree, having no will of their own.
--Col. Jeff Cooper |
Wrap that bitch in a cut section of leather belt, use rosin and a solid bench vise. Heat the MD with a torch, use a cheater bar/pipe. It'll come off. They always do. I've even seen guys spin a P/W MD off totally trashing the bbl threads.
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SERIOUSLY, THERE ARE SIGHTS, AND THEN THERE ARE SITES.
"The problem is not the availability of guns, it is the availability of morons." |
Get the rench from this place. It’s awesome and you can lock it up in a vice and really do some work.
RENCH It’s $105 |
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Everyone is a fag when it’s someone else’s butthole
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Originally Posted By Tigwelder1971:
Wrap that bitch in a cut section of leather belt, use rosin and a solid bench vise. Heat the MD with a torch, use a cheater bar/pipe. It'll come off. They always do. I've even seen guys spin a P/W MD off totally trashing the bbl threads. View Quote |
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I made some walnut vise jaw covers years ago and have used the hell out of them. I don't mess with muzzle attachments often, but when I do, I grab the gas block/sight base with the wood jaws and it always works. Haven't turned a gas block yet. The worst one I have encountered was a CMMG heavy barrel with an A2 FH. I finally had to heat it, then do the old plumber's trick of pushing first in the tightening motion, then pulling in the loosening motion. That did it but I was using so much torque that the HBAR was visibly springing. Still shot fine so I guess no harm. I installed that little Strike Ind. 'Warhog' short brake (discontinued) and it works great. I wanted the rifle to be as short as possible and with a comp for getting back on target quicker with an ACOG.
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Originally Posted By BelinTX: Get the rench from this place. It’s awesome and you can lock it up in a vice and really do some work. RENCH It’s $105 View Quote This looks feasible. Yes. I still haven't gotten it off yet. |
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Originally Posted By BelinTX: Get the rench from this place. It’s awesome and you can lock it up in a vice and really do some work. RENCH It’s $105 View Quote Well, that didn't work, but it did leave some nice scratches on my barrel. I think the carbon from my suppressor cemented that muzzle brake on. It is now one with the barrel. ![]() |
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OP, did you get it off?
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Originally Posted By Jeepsnguns81: I have a bench vise, so I took an old leather belt and cut two pieces the length of the vice jaws. I gorilla glued the leather pieces to my vise jaws. I'll put some powdered rosin on the barrel and then tighten the vise jaws. With enough rosin and the jaws nice and tight the barrel won't spin. View Quote Ya this or That.....the main guy at Rainier Arms did muzzle work early on in his living room floor and his knees... John told me this .....ya I’ve been around a Long time and a Early customer of theirs. I since done muzzle devices on that Stag upper from Rainier Many times just using a padded vise..... now I have a clam shell and Magpul loading block...... unless you have a barrel and a muzzle device Real off the trail they All work! Reaction Rods too... cept 9mm players H |
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Originally Posted By Jeepsnguns81: I have a bench vise, so I took an old leather belt and cut two pieces the length of the vice jaws. I gorilla glued the leather pieces to my vise jaws. I'll put some powdered rosin on the barrel and then tighten the vise jaws. With enough rosin and the jaws nice and tight the barrel won't spin. View Quote Ya this or That.....the main guy at Rainier Arms did muzzle work early on in his living room floor and his knees... John told me this .....ya I’ve been around a Long time and a Early customer of theirs. I since done muzzle devices on that Stag upper from Rainier Many times just using a padded vise..... now I have a clam shell and Magpul loading block...... unless you have a barrel and a muzzle device Real off the trail they All work! Reaction Rods too... cept 9mm players H |
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Originally Posted By Jeepsnguns81: I have a bench vise, so I took an old leather belt and cut two pieces the length of the vice jaws. I gorilla glued the leather pieces to my vise jaws. I'll put some powdered rosin on the barrel and then tighten the vise jaws. With enough rosin and the jaws nice and tight the barrel won't spin. View Quote Ya this or That.....the main guy at Rainier Arms did muzzle work early on in his living room floor and his knees... John told me this .....ya I’ve been around a Long time and a Early customer of theirs. I since done muzzle devices on that Stag upper from Rainier Many times just using a padded vise..... now I have a clam shell and Magpul loading block...... unless you have a barrel and a muzzle device Real off the trail they All work! Reaction Rods too... cept 9mm players H |
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Originally Posted By Jeepsnguns81: I have a bench vise, so I took an old leather belt and cut two pieces the length of the vice jaws. I gorilla glued the leather pieces to my vise jaws. I'll put some powdered rosin on the barrel and then tighten the vise jaws. With enough rosin and the jaws nice and tight the barrel won't spin. View Quote Ya this or That.....the main guy at Rainier Arms did muzzle work early on in his living room floor and his knees... John told me this .....ya I’ve been around a Long time and a Early customer of theirs. I since done muzzle devices on that Stag upper from Rainier Many times just using a padded vise..... now I have a clam shell and Magpul loading block...... unless you have a barrel and a muzzle device Real off the trail they All work! Reaction Rods too... cept 9mm players H |
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It's been just days short of a year.
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Site VS Sight....it's a tough one....
"Can't never could 'til try came along". |
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Deleted repost.
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I've always used 2x4 blocks drilled like shown in the link listed previously BUT that link shows a serious common error. That guy drilled 'with the grain' of the wood. You should always drill against the grain that way the wood will never split.
When removing high temp Loctite I always clamp the barrel and use a small propane torch. Heat up the muzzle device until you start to see smoke then it should twist off without a lot of torque. The torch will NOT harm the part or the finish. Many use a heat gun, but I prefer a torch (higher BTU). I've been told to NEVER use an upper receiver block when torquing on a barrel. Upper receiver blocks are said to only be used for installing barrel nuts. Those action rods would be perfectly fine, but quite expensive and not necessary at all. |
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I've always used a scrap 6"x6" piece of leather and a regular vise. Never had a muzzle device I couldn't get off.
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