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Posted: 10/3/2005 7:31:31 PM EDT
have a slight problem. I bought a very used pre ban Essential Arms J15 lower reciver recently. I got a Stag parts kit and started assembling it. Everything went together fine except the bolt catch. The problem was strange though. The bolt catch spring and detent when placed in the hole are flush with the outside of the hole thus not doing a damn thing to keep and tension on the catch. Anyone ever heard of this kinda problem before? Yes I used the correct spring before you ask. I am drawing a blank here, possible solution is trying to find a longer spring somewhere (where?) or putting a spacer into the hole.

Now my next problem, the mag well is so damn tight not only do mags not drop free you need to force them into the lower. I tried 20 different mags, I had one 20rd adventure line mag that dropped free and worked ok. After looking at it a bit I saw there are 3 raised areas in the left side of the magwell. I broke out the file and went to work a bit seeing how much I could accomplish and I was able to make it much clearer that there were these raised surfaces inside the mag well. I was not however able to  file them down enough to fix the problem. What can I do about this?

Now the fit between the upper and lower is horrid, so I figure one of those little red inserts will have to work. I bought some KNS pins figuring the pin holes would be egged out a bit, this was a good call. My problem now is that the selector switch is rather loose, is there anything I can do to fix this?

I knew going in that this was a beat up reciver, but I was told mags dropped free and it was fully functional, the loose pins are acceptable, the lack of finish is fine too as I was warned about all that. My big problem is the mag well, I can deal with the lack of drop free, my go to gunsa re my facotry built Stag lowers, however that I need to force the mags into the magwell and work them in to make them catch is a problem. I am a lowly college student, I bought this lower to make an M16A1 clone for my father since he is staying in CT when I get the hell outa here in two years and go off wherever the Army sends me. I can't afford the crazy prices most  charge for them so I jumped on this deal knowing it was beat up but it was still functional. I was told to the best of his knowledge the mags dropped free but the finish was gone, there were scrapes and the finish was mostly gone and the pins may be egged out a bit. I knew that and accepted it but the mags are just a bit too much. How can I fix this?

Also, couple quick questions on EA Arms recievers. This is a cast reciever, was it ever annodized? It doesn't appear it was. Also the markings are engraved on it, I thought they were raised on cast recievers, the SAFE and FIRE are marked as they ususally are on other AR15's, I was under the impression SAFE was written vertically. Not complaining if the previous owner had them engraved, just curious. Does anyone know if Essential Arms will trade out a pre ban reciever for a newly made one with the same pre ban serial number? Pictures to follow

Steve
Link Posted: 10/3/2005 7:35:20 PM EDT
you can see the high spots here


enagraved markings


Link Posted: 10/3/2005 8:43:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/3/2005 8:44:30 PM EDT by I-M-A-WMD]
Hopefully, someone gave you the lower and included the shipping? I have to give you credit NUcadet07 for posting what is easily the rattiest looking AR pic I've seen.

I had an EA lower that was cast. IIRC the "SAFE" marking was horizontal w/ the lettering being protruded vs/ engraved.  I'm pretty sure the vertical "SAFE" marking is the exception not the rule but I won't claim to be an expert by any stretch of the imagination on E.A. lowers.

As to the tight mag well, that's pretty much a deal killer IMHO.  The only thing you can do is WESCOG the well as you have already somewhat attempted unless someone w/ more intimate knowledge of corrective measures chimes in.   This may not be a bad idea if you didn't pay much for the lower. Or by trial and error find an assortment of mags that will fall free from the mag well.  In the end, you're going to end up w/ mags that are Mil-Spec and a lower that isn't because say you're dad wanted to borrow some of your mags.  Does the fact that perhaps your mags won't fall free from his rifle make them non-spec?

On another note, I'm surprised that of all the mags that would drop free from this lower it was a 20rd Adventureline as the AV mags have a considerably thicker & harder Moly coat than older Colt/Universl Simmons mags.  Was the 20rd A.V. mag's finish worn heavily?

I will say that if you're old man is like mine, he doesn't care much about making fast reloads.  In fact, my Dad prefers tactical reloads so grabbing the mag while ejecting it allows for the change to begin "in hand".  But, perhaps you're like me and you don't care what youre old man thinks- we know how the weapon is designed to work.

Due to the poor quality of the cast essential lower that I had, I uncermoniously dumped it.

As far as the original manufacturer warrantying or working on it- I'd say the answer is most definately "no".  IIRC, word had it Sturm Ruger cast Essential Arms lowers and they, as well as all other entities- has denied ever producing such a thing.

HTH

Sly
Link Posted: 10/3/2005 8:54:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/3/2005 8:56:29 PM EDT by gmtmaster]
Here is an idea on your mag well. Take a 1x2 or something similar. Wrap some emery cloth around it, insert in mag well and sand away.. Just an idea.. YMMV....

BTW: Refinish with KKote or similar.. Dont drop it, or buttstrike it if  you have a jam... Itll look good, and work fine...Itll last a good long time..
Link Posted: 10/3/2005 8:54:15 PM EDT
That lower looks forged to me.

Link Posted: 10/3/2005 9:09:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/3/2005 9:19:53 PM EDT by I-M-A-WMD]

Originally Posted By scottryan:
That lower looks forged to me.



W/ those pictures, It's hard for me to tell for sure.  What do you base that assumption on scottryan?

I'd guess it's cast.  But like I said, I'm no expert.  My guess as to it being cast is because it has the A2 reinforcement fences around the mag release but, if you look at the reinforcement area on the receiver itself which is directly below where the face of the buffer and behind the rear take down pin, that plane is *essentially* missing except for a small 1/4" (+) raised area.  AFAIK, this is common to cast lowers.  Just compare the area directly below the buffer and behind the rear takedown pin of any known forged A2 lower to the one pictured.  You can see there's some extra material missing on the pictured lower.  Further, I'm under the impression that all E.A. lowers are cast but as always I'm open to correction.

Sly

ETA:  

Essential Arms All are Pre-Ban as they went out of business in 1993. (DPMS bought them prior to the Ban) Call DPMS Lower receiver serial numbers begin with EA. Some or all lowers are cast. Light gray coloring. It is rumored that Ruger investment casted the lowers for Essential Arms.

Above edit taken from the "Improtant Threads And Information" tack...  www.ar15.com/content/legal/serialNumberList.html

Link Posted: 10/3/2005 9:24:26 PM EDT
Agreed, look at the lips on the mag well... Looks cast to me as well...My guide is Olys cast vs. forged comparison on their website..
Link Posted: 10/3/2005 10:16:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/3/2005 10:23:09 PM EDT by scottryan]
I already looked at all the pictures and I can tell the difference between a cast and forged lower and I don't need a guide.

Look at the close up shots of the lower.  All the curves are consistent with a forging.  The lettering is depressed.

The mag fence isn't thin and J shaped like on other Essential lowers.  It is consistent with a forging.

The rear area where the reciever extention is of pre 1983 style.  Essential arms do not even closely resemble a pre 1983 style forged lower that lacks the modern reinforcement at the rear of the lower.

Look at a Essential Arms lower, the curves and overall look of it are totaly different from a forged lower.
Link Posted: 10/3/2005 10:21:15 PM EDT
Look at the EA lower in this thread....

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=252362

Link Posted: 10/3/2005 10:30:13 PM EDT
I for one think you should NOT refinish it.

+1 on the sanding...that'll help a bit, as I had a EA lower about 15 years ago...or so.

I think that worn look adds a touch to it.  Maybe pick up an A1 kit SARCO has, and have yourself a nice, reliable shooter, not some pretty safequeen......
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 12:45:18 AM EDT

All are Pre-Ban as they went out of business in 1993.

Owner told me he never went out of buisness. Just quit making lowers.


Sure looks to be a forged lower. Never saw an early forged EA lower.
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 6:43:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/4/2005 6:53:17 AM EDT by A_Free_Man]
I have seen a lot of Essential lowers, but not one like that.



All I have seen look like the picture above, in the gray color.  He now does them in black also.


Due to the poor quality of the cast essential lower that I had, I uncermoniously dumped it.


I haven't seen any "quality" problems with their cast lowers.  All the ones I have seen everything fit and worked correctly.  What was the quality issue with your?

I used to own an EA lower, and have several friends with them now.  The local Sheriff Office has some FA's built on EA lowers.  The deputies I know say they work well.

I hope you didn't get taken too badly on that lower.

Why don't you call Bob (the mfg) at 337-945-0185 about it?
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 6:46:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/4/2005 6:49:49 AM EDT by Aimless]
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 7:37:16 AM EDT
So wait, you're telling me that I have a lower that is forged which means it is not an EA lower so what the hell is it? If thats the case then I just paid a bunch of money for a fake pre ban reciever. I would really like to think this is not true, as the guy who sold me the lower was very nice and very accomodating. I knew going in that it was beat up, but I was told it was functional and I did ask if mags dropped free as that was a concern of mine. Mags not dropping free is ok, but the fact I have to force them into the magwell and they don't always catch is not ok.

The lower does not look forged though, I have seen some pretty beat up M16's and they don't look or feel the same as this lower, neither do my Stags or any of the other forged lowers I have seen. I do have an M16A1 upper on the way for it. Unfortunately this is the best I could do for a pre ban, I just can't afford anything else, my stipend hasn't kicked in and I had to spend almost 900 bucks on school books this year along with uniform and gear purchases. My rifles have to take a back seat, I buy what I can when I can but it's getting harder. I am hoping I did not get taken and there is some kind of story here but the guy I got the lower from was selling it for a friend, supposedly an instructor for a group called HRT int he midwest who does SWAT training and such, hence why it's so beat up. As long as this is what he said it was and can be fixed or replaced with something functional I guess I'll be happy. I just don't really know what to do.

Steve
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 7:42:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/4/2005 7:45:12 AM EDT by Aimless]
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:00:18 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/4/2005 8:08:06 AM EDT by scottryan]

Originally Posted By NUcadet07:
So wait, you're telling me that I have a lower that is forged which means it is not an EA lower so what the hell is it? If thats the case then I just paid a bunch of money for a fake pre ban reciever. I would really like to think this is not true, as the guy who sold me the lower was very nice and very accomodating. I knew going in that it was beat up, but I was told it was functional and I did ask if mags dropped free as that was a concern of mine. Mags not dropping free is ok, but the fact I have to force them into the magwell and they don't always catch is not ok.

The lower does not look forged though, I have seen some pretty beat up M16's and they don't look or feel the same as this lower, neither do my Stags or any of the other forged lowers I have seen. I do have an M16A1 upper on the way for it. Unfortunately this is the best I could do for a pre ban, I just can't afford anything else, my stipend hasn't kicked in and I had to spend almost 900 bucks on school books this year along with uniform and gear purchases. My rifles have to take a back seat, I buy what I can when I can but it's getting harder. I am hoping I did not get taken and there is some kind of story here but the guy I got the lower from was selling it for a friend, supposedly an instructor for a group called HRT int he midwest who does SWAT training and such, hence why it's so beat up. As long as this is what he said it was and can be fixed or replaced with something functional I guess I'll be happy. I just don't really know what to do.

Steve



I dont know what it is.  I thought all Essential lowers were cast also.  But that lower has features that is consistent with a forging.

I agree the rib around the magwell is square and not like most forged magwells.

The selector stops are consistent with a forging rather than the "triangle" style found on cast Essential and DPMS lowers

I can't be 100% sure but there is vastly more evidence that points to a forging than a casting.
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:04:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/4/2005 8:04:59 AM EDT by I-M-A-WMD]

Originally Posted By j3_:

All are Pre-Ban as they went out of business in 1993.

Owner told me he never went out of buisness. Just quit making lowers.


Sure looks to be a forged lower. Never saw an early forged EA lower.



The information quoted above, I quoted from the resources right here according to the link in my post above...  Perhaps, it needs updated to avoid misconceptions.  It's news to me that EA is still in business.  If so, NUcadet07 should be able to get the resources he needs from the business.


By A_Free_Man: I haven't seen any "quality" problems with their cast lowers. All the ones I have seen everything fit and worked correctly. What was the quality issue with your?


Specifically- I can't overly recall.  This was 5-6 years ago and it was during a time when I was ging through ARs like rice crispy treats.  I'd spot one that I just "had to have" take it home and begin to discover issues that didn't meet my standards.  The EA that I had, the price was right at the time I purchased it.  My best recollection was that adding up several relatively minor issues such as finish, selector smoothness etc. I eventually concluded that cast was not for me and haven't gone back since.


Sly
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:04:13 AM EDT
Is there any way you could take a picture of the back of the lower where the web of you hand sits?  To see if there is a forging line?

Or around the trigger?
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:07:40 AM EDT
The one thing I noticed is that is has the M16A1 style lack of reinforcing near the buffer tube which I've never seen on an EA lower. So maybe we can track down what this is by figuring out who made M16A1 style lowers? Looking at the Oly site it sure looks like it is forged. So is this a forged (read FAKE) Essential Arms lower? I don't have the serial number on me right now, the lower is home and I am at school so I'll have to wait for my father to get home before I can find out the serial number. I'll give EA a call tomorow once I get the serial number.

Steve
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:08:32 AM EDT
I have some more pics, they aren't great but I'll post em up right now. Stand by
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:13:45 AM EDT
Sand away in the magwell, although files seem to qork better. I've also ran into 'deep' bolt catch holes. I cut off a nail (to appropriate length and expoxied it in the hole. Worked great to restore the tension.

Good luck.

And IMO, beat up ARs are way cool.
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:14:07 AM EDT


Ok, so the other pics I took this weekend sucked so this is the only decent one I have. I will have my dad take some more pics tonight. If by the forging line you mean a line that looks almost recessed but just barely ont he hell of the lower below the buffer tube extension, then yes, there is one there....

Steve
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:23:53 AM EDT
One thing, I don' know if it matters or not but there are some very heavy machining marks on the top of the reciever, especially around the mag well but its pretty much concistently heavy machine marks around the whole top part of the lower.
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:26:33 AM EDT
I'll jump in here.  

It was I that sent NUCadet the receiver.  I am 100% certain that it is a real EA.  The receiver was previously owned by a guy from HRT training.  I was told that it would build just fine, and didn't note any problems upon inspecting the receiver.  I even dropped inserted three mags to see if that worked ok.   NUCadet, I'm definitely willing and wanting to work with you to come up with possible solutions.  Here is something to try in the magwell.  Try moistening the inside of the magwell with water.  Then, put in flour or something similar.  Insert a mag.  Pull the mag out and see where the flour has been rubbed off to see where the high spots are.  Perhaps a light dremeling in those spots will help.  For the magazine catch, I think you are right, that a small spacer would be the ticket.  Put the spacer in the bottom.  The bizzare part about this is that I handled the lower when it was fully built, and everything seemed OK.  NUCadet, I'm here to help, and do my best to get you set up straight with this sucker.  
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:32:59 AM EDT

Originally Posted By TWIRE:
Sand away in the magwell, although files seem to qork better. I've also ran into 'deep' bolt catch holes. I cut off a nail (to appropriate length and expoxied it in the hole. Worked great to restore the tension.

Good luck.

And IMO, beat up ARs are way cool.



A possible solution?
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:33:02 AM EDT
Colin, we already found the high spots, first of all when I tried a teflon coated mag it fucked up the teflon coating so that was a pretty clear sign of where they were lol. So we then started filing and the file brought out the high points. On the opposite side of the reciver you can see the low point, when I did plastic models we'd call those sink marks where not enough plastic was injected into the mold but these are just too odd and why I figured it was cast. The first picture shows the worst of the high spots.

Does anyone have any recomendations on how to tighten up the selector switch? Its too lose for my liking.

Also I just want to be clear, Collin has been very helpful and I am not accusing him of anything, I just want to get this made right, beit getting it fixed or something else. I bought with confidence as when we talked on the phone he seemed like a good guy and cut me a few breaks and I had heard no bad things about EA recievers, now maybe I have lol.

Steve
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:34:11 AM EDT
Here is a picture of a deputy's EA lower (and "blemished" LAR upper) that I had just Molyresined for him.  This is just like the one I used to have that I purchased about 1989 or so.



It is cast, was originally gray.  I know this one in the picture is at least 15 years old.  And it is being carried daily in New Orleans at the moment.  The Molyresin keeps it free of corrosion, he says.
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:42:41 AM EDT
Describe exactly what you mean by a "loose" selector switch.  Do you mean that it rotates too easily?
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:46:21 AM EDT
Does anyone have any recomendations on how to tighten up the selector switch? Its too lose for my liking.

This has to do with spring length and tension.  More common is the selector being too tight/stiff, requiring the spring be clipped a few coils.

The spring is under a detent that is in the receiver, coming up from the bottom.  The lower part of the spring is in the grip.  So, if you put a spacer of some sort under the spring it will have to go in the grip.

With such a small hole, it is likely that if you put in a spacer, it would be very difficult to remove.

Try this first... on the offchance that when the grip was put on (and I have done this, and many others, too) the spring might have become crimped or caught between the grip and receiver.  Remove the grip, examine the spring.  When you replace the grip, do not just let the grip screw draw it up into position.  It will draw up the grip at an angle.  The grip with the spring and detent must be slid onto the receiver perpendicular to the boreline... straight on. Then the screw inserted and tightened.  I know, this is easier said than done, but this is what you must do.  So first, simply remove and reassemble.  Then go from there.  You may have the wrong spring in there.  It is a little different from the similar looking spring intended for the takedown and pivot pin detents.  You may have one of those there.

Also, I have found that not all grips have the same depth hole!  Since this is a spring tension issue, it really has nothing to do with the lower receiver itself.

So, this problem can be fixed... AND the mag well problem can be fixed by filing, as you are starting to do.

Perhaps get/borrow some calipers.  Measure some mag wells on other receivers that drop free to your liking, and compare to the measurements on yours.  This might be something Bob can do for you.

And at the same time he can strip off that crappy looking finish and tuffcote or whatever he calls it to put a new finish on for you.  I use Molyresin, as you see in the above photo, and get very good results.  The Molyresin Flat Black Socom matches most all of the uppers I have seen lately.  Yours appears to have been painted black over the original gray perhaps.

So, all of these little problems can be fixed.  Don't panic.
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 8:55:11 AM EDT
NUCadet...I have an assload of grips laying around.  Want one to try to see if the depth is different?
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 9:48:21 AM EDT
Thanks, I wasn't sure about the selector but I'll try the spacer. I have a ton of grips, A1's, A2's, Tango Down that I can try. I will give the spacer a shot when I get home. Thanks
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 10:37:38 AM EDT
I am on the phone with the owner of EA right now. Things are not looking good...
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 10:52:19 AM EDT
Steve, check your IM, I'm sending you my phone number.  I need to get some info from you to check things out here.  

Collin
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 11:04:19 AM EDT
I have seen this reciever personally & it looked like someone recountered the mag release with jb weld & a dremmel tool! Yes It's rough & the raised lettering was ground off & stamped! But my money says it is no doubt a ea cast lower!
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 11:08:12 AM EDT
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 12:17:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/5/2005 12:20:54 PM EDT by scottryan]

Originally Posted By VLODPG:
I have seen this reciever personally & it looked like someone recountered the mag release with jb weld & a dremmel tool! Yes It's rough & the raised lettering was ground off & stamped! But my money says it is no doubt a ea cast lower!



Are you talking about the mag release button or the fence?

From the pictures that are posted, there is no way somebody can grind out the rear of the reciever to "A1" style or the selector stops that good.  
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 12:29:22 PM EDT
Looks like some amatuer "machinist" got an 80% receiver and tried to complete it. Screwed it up and unloaded. Too many questions. Does EA even have a record of the serial number?
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 12:51:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/5/2005 12:55:26 PM EDT by VLODPG]

Originally Posted By scottryan:

Originally Posted By VLODPG:
I have seen this reciever personally & it looked like someone recountered the mag release with jb weld & a dremmel tool! Yes It's rough & the raised lettering was ground off & stamped! But my money says it is no doubt a ea cast lower!



Are you talking about the mag release button or the fence?

From the pictures that are posted, there is no way somebody can grind out the rear of the reciever to "A1" style or the selector stops that good.  



The fence area was definately built up & recountored to change it from the "j" shape  & the raised lettering was definately ground down. It is something you need to see  in person. Also it is definately cast! Not a 80%r
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 1:28:14 PM EDT
Paul,
you really think it was recontoured? I never really gave it that close a look to be honest, I just figured it was casting imperfections. It is certainly a cast lower, I ams ure of that now. The serial number is legit pre ban. I will take Paul's word on it, when those uppers come in mind taking a look at the lower for me? I may come home in the next couple weeks. Well I suppose this isn't too bad then, I will clean up the mag well and fix the other issues, which all seem to be requirements for spacers, then blast it and take off the rest of the crappy finish and then break out the Iwata airbrush and duracoat it. Paul you have really put me at ease about this, someone sure put an awful lot of work into this thing.

Now for my next question, what duracoat color comes closest to Colt Grey? I have an M16A1 upper on the way and I want to refinish it to match. It won't be a safequeen but that busted up lookin lower on a new looking upper just doesn't sit right with me. thanks again all. I'll post some pictures when I get it all fixed up.
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 2:28:48 PM EDT
I would like to see somebody else post pictures of a pre 1983 style cast lower, before I believe this lower is cast.


Link Posted: 10/5/2005 5:28:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/5/2005 5:30:22 PM EDT by j3_]
There is a picture of an early cast one I sent in in the link. The selector stops are located differently on the old cast ones. The one this thread is about has stops styled and cut like a forged lower. The owner is  friendly and would probably let you know if they made any old forged ones if someone calls and ask. It is the one with the vertical markings.
www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=223495
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 6:47:51 PM EDT

Originally Posted By j3_:
There is a picture of an early cast one I sent in in the link. The selector stops are located differently on the old cast ones. The one this thread is about has stops styled and cut like a forged lower. The owner is  friendly and would probably let you know if they made any old forged ones if someone calls and ask. It is the one with the vertical markings.
www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=223495



All those lowers in the guide are the typical Essential arms style.  Not pre 1983 style with forged style selector stops.
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 7:00:29 PM EDT

Originally Posted By NUcadet07:
Paul,
you really think it was recontoured? I never really gave it that close a look to be honest, I just figured it was casting imperfections. It is certainly a cast lower, I ams ure of that now. The serial number is legit pre ban. I will take Paul's word on it, when those uppers come in mind taking a look at the lower for me? I may come home in the next couple weeks. Well I suppose this isn't too bad then, I will clean up the mag well and fix the other issues, which all seem to be requirements for spacers, then blast it and take off the rest of the crappy finish and then break out the Iwata airbrush and duracoat it. Paul you have really put me at ease about this, someone sure put an awful lot of work into this thing.

Now for my next question, what duracoat color comes closest to Colt Grey? I have an M16A1 upper on the way and I want to refinish it to match. It won't be a safequeen but that busted up lookin lower on a new looking upper just doesn't sit right with me. thanks again all. I'll post some pictures when I get it all fixed up.



Also, on your lower, there is no step by the detent ridge that is on Essential arms cast lowers where the upper and lower meet.

So far, nobody has presented any evidence that this lower is cast.  

Just becuase it has a pre ban serial number doesn't mean it is cast.  It could be a 80% lower with fake Essential markings or sombody elses remarked lower.
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 7:10:38 PM EDT
Cast or not....As long as you are happy with it, that is all that should matter...Clean it up, refinish and shoot it...Like I said before, dont buttstrike it.. Itll run for a long time.
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 7:31:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/5/2005 7:33:06 PM EDT by scottryan]

Originally Posted By gmtmaster:
Cast or not....As long as you are happy with it, that is all that should matter...Clean it up, refinish and shoot it...Like I said before, dont buttstrike it.. Itll run for a long time.



Agree,

Also, after blasting it, you should get it anodized.  Your holes will wear out if you don't.  Duracoat, etc. is not a substitute for anodizing.  Being that you are in CT and the lower is preban, you probably want it to last, correct?


Link Posted: 10/5/2005 7:39:19 PM EDT

Originally Posted By scottryan:

Originally Posted By gmtmaster:
Cast or not....As long as you are happy with it, that is all that should matter...Clean it up, refinish and shoot it...Like I said before, dont buttstrike it.. Itll run for a long time.



Agree,

Also, after blasting it, you should get it anodized.  Your holes will wear out if you don't.  Duracoat, etc. is not a substitute for anodizing.  Being that you are in CT and the lower is preban, you probably want it to last, correct?





+1

Keep using the KNS pins as well...You get a nice solid feel and NO rotation...
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 7:40:40 PM EDT
Where can I get it anodized and how much is it going to cost me. I've heard Duracoat is very tough stuff, it's not gonna be a safe queen but I don't abuse my rifles either. Also with the KNS pins that should protect against the shifting of the pins should it not? I kinda figured I had my bases covered and thus did not need to have it anodized as from what I understand its very expensive and I'd end up having to duracoat it anyways to get the lower to match the upper.

Steve
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 8:28:42 PM EDT
Precision Coating in Titusville FL

They charge $75 and that includes blasting.

Duracoat is nowhere close to Anodizing.  Anodizing is aluminum oxide (sandpaper).

The only common thing harder than it is diamond.
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 8:46:44 PM EDT

Originally Posted By NUcadet07:
Where can I get it anodized and how much is it going to cost me. I've heard Duracoat is very tough stuff, it's not gonna be a safe queen but I don't abuse my rifles either. Also with the KNS pins that should protect against the shifting of the pins should it not? I kinda figured I had my bases covered and thus did not need to have it anodized as from what I understand its very expensive and I'd end up having to duracoat it anyways to get the lower to match the upper.

Steve



Duracoat it after you anodize.. Then your color will match..  KNS pins do not rotate.. They will keep your holes from egging out.. And since you have them already.. Its cheap insurance.. I have them on an irreplaceable lower. Since you are in a BAN state, youll want to do everything to keep your lower in good condition.. Again.. Since you have them already... They cant hurt...
Link Posted: 10/6/2005 12:39:20 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/6/2005 12:39:50 AM EDT by j3_]

Originally Posted By scottryan:
I would like to see somebody else post pictures of a pre 1983 style cast lower, before I believe this lower is cast.






You said you wanted to see a pre 83 cast lower. I bought one of their lowers before 83 and it was just like the one in the picture.
Link Posted: 10/6/2005 7:29:02 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/6/2005 7:43:18 AM EDT by A_Free_Man]
I am on the phone with the owner of EA right now. Things are not looking good...

It looks to me as if someone took an 80% lower and put EA markings on it, perhaps not knowing that EA was still in business and this could be checked out.

I see no indications it was a ever cast lower.  All indications is that it is forged.  And why would someone go to so much trouble to try to make a cast EA look like a forging if it wasn't?

When you said you spoke on the phone with owner Bob Johnson, and "things are not looking good"... is that even a valid serial number?  What was the jist of the conversation?

It would not be cost effective to "anodize" your receiver.  You can get a quite nice durable finish with Norrell's Molyresin, do it yourself for far less.

Is CT a "ban" state with its own AWB banning pre 94 AR stype rifles?
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