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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/20/2005 8:11:58 AM EDT
First build, certified computer geek with limited mechanical skillz. Fulton lower, Fulton LPK.

Got the mag release in OK (wifey helped a little). Doing the trigger guard now - front is in via detent, trying to put the rear roll pin in - is it supposed to be this tight? I've got a nail punch, the lower guide says use a roll pin punch - do I need a trip to the hardware store? It's not going in easily at all, I don't want to force anything here - do I just muscle through it or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks for the help, I have a feeling this won't be my last post.
Link Posted: 8/20/2005 8:37:27 AM EDT
I would go ahead and undo the front detent on the trigger gaurd. It seems one of mine was extra hard to instal with the front in. They have always been a tight fit for me, on every build I've done. The other fun part is the front take down detent. I use a razor blade to push the spring and detent in while I put the take down pin over them. Then, hope like heck the next sound I hear isn't ting ting ting, as the detent and spring go bounceing into the unknown. Best of luck.
Link Posted: 8/20/2005 8:37:27 AM EDT
Grease the points where the roll pinmakes contact. While there are plenty of people who will say to use a proper punch set, I used a nail punch for my first few builds and never had any issues.
Link Posted: 8/20/2005 8:52:07 AM EDT
Nail punch huh?

I've put together 5 AR's and all I've used is a hammer. I make sure to put a piece of wood or plastic over the rollpin when it starts getting close to the receiver so I don't mar the finish.

The hardest part of a lower is the front pivot pin/spring/detent installation. If you haven't tried this yet, you have some fun coming for you

WIZZO
Link Posted: 8/20/2005 8:53:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/20/2005 8:55:43 AM EDT by j3_]
www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782
I like to press them in like in the link above. I usually put a little piece of cardboard also on the receiver where the pliers are touching. Never trusted just the tape.
Link Posted: 8/20/2005 9:13:38 AM EDT
Roll pin punches and roll pin starter punches come in very handy, but you can do it without them. I always use a good dollop of CLP on the pins before I insert them.

Make sure you support the lower properly when banging that trigger guard pin in...I've heard of folks cracking the receiver there. Doesn't happen very often, but once is enough to ruin your day!



Link Posted: 8/20/2005 12:43:24 PM EDT
I may try the press it in method next - thanks for the help.
Link Posted: 8/20/2005 3:38:57 PM EDT
I used vice grips with the (jaws?) wraped in tape so not to scratch. Worked great for me went in easy and fast.
Link Posted: 8/21/2005 8:38:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/21/2005 8:38:49 PM EDT by Gunner45]
I just used the press in method as described in the "Build your own lower" stickey. Worked great, and I didn't mark up the finnish.


Gunner45
Link Posted: 8/22/2005 6:39:44 AM EDT
Taped vise grips work great for both trigger guard pin and bolt release pin.
For pivot pin, buy a 1/4" clevis pin (has 6 holes in it) from a hardware store for $1. Put it through the left side and line up one of the holes with the receiver spring/detent hole. Insert spring and detent. Push them down flush with the surface with a small drill bit or similar, then twist clevis pin to hold in detent (using another drill bit or small vise grips makes this easier). Now insert pivot pin, which will push clevis pin out. Can be done in less than one minute.
Link Posted: 8/22/2005 6:47:13 AM EDT
For years, long before I built my first AR, I've used ViseGrip pliers (needle nose are especially nice) to hold the rollpin. Squeeze it a bit and it'll reduce the diameter and make it easier to install. Squeeze too tight and you'll collapse the pin.

Remember to support the opposite side of your trigger guard housing. They have been know to snap off if you're hammering a pin in with too much zeal.
Link Posted: 8/22/2005 4:13:58 PM EDT
Well, this is a learning experience I guess.

I had to be the crap out of the trigger guard pin. Kept it supported and nothing broke, a few minor nicks on the reciever.

Got the bolt catch pin in easier - oiled it first, and started with the squeeze method first. I'm guessing vice grips would be better than the wrench I am using (angled/resizeable wrench, not sure what you call that).

Front pivot was very easy after some experimentation and an oops. I put in the spring, then for some reason put in the pivot pin, and oops it's not coming back out, had to force it a bit and bent up the spring. (I think I have a spare in a spart parts kit. I hope). Then, I used a pair of needle nose to hold the detent, used the pivot pin to push it all down and it went right in.

Doing the trigger/disconnect thing next - is the little spring that sits vertically inside the trigger, is it slightly larger for the top loop?
Link Posted: 8/22/2005 4:33:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2005 4:33:56 PM EDT by WIZZO_ARAKM14]

Originally Posted By vote_republican:
<snip>
Doing the trigger/disconnect thing next - is the little spring that sits vertically inside the trigger, is it slightly larger for the top loop?



No.

The wider part of the spring goes down into the trigger. That tension kelps keep it in place.

WIZZO
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 2:43:12 AM EDT
Thanks - got that in last night. Trigger seems good to go, now I'm working on the disconnector. I'll probably look at my Bushie to make sure the springs are all going the right way.

Getting close.
Link Posted: 9/5/2005 5:54:32 PM EDT

Originally Posted By vote_republican:
Well, this is a learning experience I guess.

I had to be the crap out of the trigger guard pin. Kept it supported and nothing broke, a few minor nicks on the reciever.

Got the bolt catch pin in easier - oiled it first, and started with the squeeze method first. I'm guessing vice grips would be better than the wrench I am using (angled/resizeable wrench, not sure what you call that).
Front pivot was very easy after some experimentation and an oops. I put in the spring, then for some reason put in the pivot pin, and oops it's not coming back out, had to force it a bit and bent up the spring. (I think I have a spare in a spart parts kit. I hope). Then, I used a pair of needle nose to hold the detent, used the pivot pin to push it all down and it went right in.

Doing the trigger/disconnect thing next - is the little spring that sits vertically inside the trigger, is it slightly larger for the top loop?



Channel locks
Link Posted: 9/5/2005 8:07:15 PM EDT




Originally Posted By Ford_tech:

Originally Posted By vote_republican:
Well, this is a learning experience I guess.

I had to be the crap out of the trigger guard pin. Kept it supported and nothing broke, a few minor nicks on the reciever.

Got the bolt catch pin in easier - oiled it first, and started with the squeeze method first. I'm guessing vice grips would be better than the wrench I am using (angled/resizeable wrench, not sure what you call that).
Front pivot was very easy after some experimentation and an oops. I put in the spring, then for some reason put in the pivot pin, and oops it's not coming back out, had to force it a bit and bent up the spring. (I think I have a spare in a spart parts kit. I hope). Then, I used a pair of needle nose to hold the detent, used the pivot pin to push it all down and it went right in.

Doing the trigger/disconnect thing next - is the little spring that sits vertically inside the trigger, is it slightly larger for the top loop?



Channel locks




cresent wrench
Link Posted: 9/6/2005 3:49:06 PM EDT
I built my lower using only vise grips (with the jaws taped), a pair of pliers to hold the rolls pins, a hammer and a nail.

Best of all, no scrathes at all.
Link Posted: 9/6/2005 4:44:46 PM EDT
I used to build em with a hammer/punch combo which usually resulted in some kinda scrath, I have done the last 2 with the Vise grips and will build the rest of them that way, no scratch or anything.
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