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Posted: 8/17/2004 6:39:43 AM EST
Which do you prefer and why?

TIA
Link Posted: 8/17/2004 9:43:26 AM EST
[Last Edit: 8/17/2004 9:45:26 AM EST by Stickman]
I prefer Norrells, even though it doesn't answer your question....

The below pic is all parts SOCOM black (flat black), with the exception of the 1911 frame, which is OD Green.

Here are some links with info for refinishing with Norrells.
www.glocksunlocked.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10200
www.glocksunlocked.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10478
Link Posted: 8/17/2004 12:35:21 PM EST
I have had the best results with 2400. As I understand the 2400 is more protective and the 1600 has more lubricicity, so use the 2400 on parts that are not dedicated moving parts like barrels ect. I have done a ton of research on this stuff on L1A1.com Fal files they tend to do a lot more home smithing and koting due to the used parts kits ect. You may want to search their records. As I understand the chemical formula used in Norrells, brownells and KG gun kote is virtually the same.
Link Posted: 8/17/2004 1:00:42 PM EST
Did some reading about Norrel's and I do not like the fact that the parts have to be heated prior to treatment and kept at a specific temp. Does G-Kote require the parts to be heated as well for the application?

TIA
Link Posted: 8/17/2004 3:03:15 PM EST
You are certainly more than welcome to use whatever you want, but I will clear up your misinformation for you. It does not have to be pre-heated to a certain temperature, nor does it have to be held at a certain temp before being coated. I'm not sure where you heard or read that,

With any of the coatings, it pays to preheat your item. This allows your finish to dry as soon as it hits the surface of you item. This prevents drips, sags or other finish flaws. It isn't required, but it is certainly going to make your finish look better. I simply use a hairdryer to heat areas as I spray.
Link Posted: 8/17/2004 6:49:50 PM EST
I am with stickman on this. I have seen the photos of his work and it is top shelf. I degrease, then degrease again then preheat at around 200+ degrees to make sure there is no oil or moisture whatsoever. then I let it cool down till it is hot but touchable with nitrile gloves (approx 125-140) to apply the gunkote. Once on I bake for 1+hours at 300-325. It turns out great, man I love the stuff.
Link Posted: 8/17/2004 7:21:54 PM EST
Justy,

Sounds like we are doing it the same way. There is no such thing as a decent finish if the prep work isn't done correctly!!
Link Posted: 8/17/2004 8:12:44 PM EST
Can't beat this thread for reply value! Tagged for ref

Link Posted: 8/18/2004 7:10:36 AM EST
[Last Edit: 8/18/2004 7:13:52 AM EST by davidp14]
I've had good results with the 2400. 3 Fal's so far. I'm going to do my AR in OD one of these days. I always preheat my stuff in the oven for about 30mins. I put the can of paint in some warm water too.

heres my G1; not a great pic, but you get the idea:





Hey stickman,
did you paint your delta ring too? what about underneath it?
Link Posted: 9/3/2004 2:13:10 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/3/2004 2:13:31 PM EST by MudBug]

Originally Posted By davidp14:
I've had good results with the 2400. 3 Fal's so far. I'm going to do my AR in OD one of these days. I always preheat my stuff in the oven for about 30mins. I put the can of paint in some warm water too.

heres my G1; not a great pic, but you get the idea:

www.hunt101.com/img/145995.JPG



Hey stickman,
did you paint your delta ring too? what about underneath it?




BLASPHEMER!


Please tell me that's photoshopped, or it's just a wierd angle that makes it look like it was painted with a bic pen.
Link Posted: 9/3/2004 5:26:17 PM EST

Originally Posted By Stickman:
I prefer Norrells, even though it doesn't answer your question....

The below pic is all parts SOCOM black (flat black), with the exception of the 1911 frame, which is OD Green.

Here are some links with info for refinishing with Norrells.
www.glocksunlocked.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10200
www.glocksunlocked.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10478
www.airforcesecuritypolice.com/invisionboard/uploads/post-3-1091911260.jpg



Nice, are you open for business?

I've been thinking about doing a couple of my Oly uppers so they match my newer RRA lowers better. I have 2 A1 uppers, and an A3 upper and Lower to match. How much of the Norrels would I need?
Link Posted: 9/3/2004 9:42:20 PM EST

Originally Posted By davidp14:
Hey stickman,
did you paint your delta ring too? what about underneath it?



I sometimes paint the D-ring and under it, but it all depends on what I'm doing and how involved I'm getting. Quite often I'm building an upper, or doing other modifications to the weapon, so it is already pretty far apart. In those cases I just pull everything apart the rest of the way. If it is just to refinish it to look good, sometimes it isn't as big of an issue. It all depends on what the end user is looking for.

Below is one of my favorites. It is simple and basic, and with a simple color scheme. The upper, lower and carry handle are grayish-black, or what some people call "early Colt". Everything else, including the FCG, D-ring, barrel etc is coated matte black (SOCOM black). It has a match grade Stainless Steel light weight barrel, M4 handguards, and is a flattop. I had played with the idea of a ribbed stock, as the larger end makes it more comfortable, but I decided I really didn't like the look of a ribbed stock with the rest of the weapon. This was made for Mrs.Stick, so how it looked was important....
Link Posted: 9/3/2004 9:44:58 PM EST

Originally Posted By brushdog:
Nice, are you open for business?

I've been thinking about doing a couple of my Oly uppers so they match my newer RRA lowers better. I have 2 A1 uppers, and an A3 upper and Lower to match. How much of the Norrels would I need?




As much as I appreciate the compliment, my entire goal is to show people how they can do this themselves....
Link Posted: 9/4/2004 12:51:18 AM EST
Listen to Justy...this rifle was finished in 2400 KG in Justy's garage, under his supervision. This was my FIRST experience using KG, but with a few tips i found it a very simple process. Some of the parts were simply left in the sun on a hot Las Vegas day, and were definitely hot enough to fascilitate the application of the GunKote.

The reasoning behind the preheating process is to just bring the metal to a temperature that will immediately fix whatever is being sprayed onto it....no drips or sags....just hot enough to handle with gloved hands. I am sure a hair dryer or heat gun would do the trick.

Justy has a dedicated small toaster oven in the garage that will fit an upper, lower and all parts necesarry to build an AR. The barrels are suspended and baked in a seperate galvanized tube (affixed with thermometer) that gets sat atop of a white gas camp stove....A little medievil...but works exactly as it should.

Anyhow, the finish turned out wonderful, and the process is simple as long as pre-prep is done correctly, and you have the right tools for the job.


Link Posted: 9/4/2004 8:11:54 AM EST
Get us a pic with the optics &BUIS!!
Link Posted: 9/4/2004 8:46:06 AM EST
The tripower in the picture has since been replaced with an M2

Link Posted: 9/4/2004 9:52:58 AM EST
Nice!
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