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Posted: 3/24/2012 11:10:48 AM EDT
[#1]
If it doesn't list graphite or aluminum, then it probably doesn't have any. The purists will argue for a specific grease, but lots of folks use good quality bearing grease like you have. I'd use it.
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Posted: 3/24/2012 11:29:29 AM EDT
[#2]
I've always used white lithium grease.
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Posted: 3/24/2012 11:46:54 AM EDT
[#3]
Looks fine....slather some on and get busy.
Post pics. |
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Posted: 3/24/2012 11:51:14 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Looks fine....slather some on and get busy. Post pics. Will do. Unfortunately it might be awhile on pics of the final product.... I've been waiting over 3 weeks for my DD lower parts kit. Hopefully it ships soon! |
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Posted: 3/24/2012 7:41:53 PM EDT
[#5]
The torque range specified in the TM is dependant on using the spec grease.
The mil-spec gives a max and a min moly content. Personally I use the mil-spec grease on general principle. |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 4:51:51 AM EDT
[#6]
Since graphite isn't considered a hazardous substance, it is not required to be listed in an MSDS. MOST automotive greases,and especially axle greases (like the Valvoline grease in the link) use graphite to assist with lubrication, whether they're petroleum based, lithium based or whatever. I ALWAYS recommend use of the most appropriate grease: one that meets MIL-G-21164. I use AeroShell 33MS (my 14oz tube will last me my whole life), but Honda Moly 60 also meets that spec and is available at Honda cycle shops. That tub of Valvoline grease probably cost pretty close to what my AeroShell 33MS cost...and I know my grease is not going to hurt my upper.
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Posted: 3/25/2012 5:07:59 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
The torque range specified in the TM is dependant on using the spec grease. The mil-spec gives a max and a min moly content. Personally I use the mil-spec grease on general principle. how much can a different grease change the specified torque values of 30-80 ft-lbs? I would guess a little bit, if any OP, use it, you are fine |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 5:30:41 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Since graphite isn't considered a hazardous substance, it is not required to be listed in an MSDS. MOST automotive greases,and especially axle greases (like the Valvoline grease in the link) use graphite to assist with lubrication, whether they're petroleum based, lithium based or whatever. I ALWAYS recommend use of the most appropriate grease: one that meets MIL-G-21164. I use AeroShell 33MS (my 14oz tube will last me my whole life), but Honda Moly 60 also meets that spec and is available at Honda cycle shops. That tub of Valvoline grease probably cost pretty close to what my AeroShell 33MS cost...and I know my grease is not going to hurt my upper. Just out of curiosity, where do you buy your Aeroshell 33MS? I've always heard skygeek.com recommended. But I checked there...... the tube is $14.99, and the cheapest S&H option was $10. That's $25 for a 14 oz cartridge.... The valvoline stuff I picked up was $6. |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 7:06:26 AM EDT
[#9]
It's not about price. Graphite can cause corrosion in the presence of moisture, aluminum and steel, all of which you have where the barrel attaches to the upper receiver. Chances are that kind of damage isn't gonna happen to your build in a short period of time.
But $25 is cheap insurance against damage when you compare it to the total price of the weapon. I expect to pass my builds down to my children, and also expect they will pass them on to their own kids in turn. So I spend an extra $20 on a grease that can't cause corrosion to eliminate a possible source of failure that might not show up for twenty or thirty years. |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 7:29:17 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Since graphite isn't considered a hazardous substance, it is not required to be listed in an MSDS. I'm in construction and we have to carry MSDS on some very basic things, to be compliant. Based on that I disagree with the above. MOST automotive greases,and especially axle greases (like the Valvoline grease in the link) use graphite to assist with lubrication, whether they're petroleum based, lithium based or whatever.
Disagree again. The OP chose a moly fortified grease which I believe is graphite free. I ALWAYS recommend use of the most appropriate grease: one that meets MIL-G-21164. I use AeroShell 33MS (my 14oz tube will last me my whole life), but Honda Moly 60 also meets that spec and is available at Honda cycle shops. That tub of Valvoline grease probably cost pretty close to what my AeroShell 33MS cost...and I know my grease is not going to hurt my upper.
Honda Moly 60 reportedly contains 15-20% moly which makes it non-compliant with the mil spec. I don't think that the mil spec was ever directed specifically at small arms assembly, but to aircraft component lubrication. I believe the spec was borrowed because it met the weapons requirement and it was already in the inventory. I would use HM 60 on the barrel nut. I currently use AeroShell 33MS but if I couldn't find it, I would be fine with the OP's choice. It's far better than some of the other "substitutes" you see on this board. This stuff may have the highest moly content of any of them. (wouldn't be technically compliant) NECO Moly-Slide 
This stuff seems to be very, very similar to some automotive assembly lubes, specifically the camshaft break-in lubes. Isky Rev-Lube Moly Kote The cam guys don't make it easy to find their "secret ingredients" however. I couldn't recommend without knowing the contents, but if compliant very accessible. Quite possibly a basic moly paste that is re-labeled. Bottom line, I would avoid anything known to promote galvanic corrosion. |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 7:54:51 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted: Quoted: Since graphite isn't considered a hazardous substance, it is not required to be listed in an MSDS. MOST automotive greases,and especially axle greases (like the Valvoline grease in the link) use graphite to assist with lubrication, whether they're petroleum based, lithium based or whatever. I ALWAYS recommend use of the most appropriate grease: one that meets MIL-G-21164. I use AeroShell 33MS (my 14oz tube will last me my whole life), but Honda Moly 60 also meets that spec and is available at Honda cycle shops. That tub of Valvoline grease probably cost pretty close to what my AeroShell 33MS cost...and I know my grease is not going to hurt my upper. Just out of curiosity, where do you buy your Aeroshell 33MS? I've always heard skygeek.com recommended. But I checked there...... the tube is $14.99, and the cheapest S&H option was $10. That's $25 for a 14 oz cartridge.... The valvoline stuff I picked up was $6. Skygeek is where I bought mine, their prices are tough to beat unless you can find it locally at a shop that has parts/service for airplanes. That one tube will literally last you a lifetime (and then some). Don't cheap out when it comes to your barrel and your upper. |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 8:14:24 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
It's not about price. Graphite can cause corrosion in the presence of moisture, aluminum and steel, all of which you have where the barrel attaches to the upper receiver. Chances are that kind of damage isn't gonna happen to your build in a short period of time. But $25 is cheap insurance against damage when you compare it to the total price of the weapon. I expect to pass my builds down to my children, and also expect they will pass them on to their own kids in turn. So I spend an extra $20 on a grease that can't cause corrosion to eliminate a possible source of failure that might not show up for twenty or thirty years. This gets back to my original question. How in the world do I figure out if the stuff I bought has graphite or aluminum in it? It's amazing that it's nearly impossible to identify the composition of this Valvoline grease (or just about anything else you find on the shelves of an auto parts store) to identify graphite content or lack there of. I'm not opposed to paying more for the right product, but I'm also not about overpaying for something when a perfectly acceptable replacement is available a block down the road at 1/5 the price. BTW.... I hate paying S&H 
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Posted: 3/25/2012 9:28:17 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Quoted:
It's not about price. Graphite can cause corrosion in the presence of moisture, aluminum and steel, all of which you have where the barrel attaches to the upper receiver. Chances are that kind of damage isn't gonna happen to your build in a short period of time. But $25 is cheap insurance against damage when you compare it to the total price of the weapon. I expect to pass my builds down to my children, and also expect they will pass them on to their own kids in turn. So I spend an extra $20 on a grease that can't cause corrosion to eliminate a possible source of failure that might not show up for twenty or thirty years. This gets back to my original question. How in the world do I figure out if the stuff I bought has graphite or aluminum in it? It's amazing that it's nearly impossible to identify the composition of this Valvoline grease (or just about anything else you find on the shelves of an auto parts store) to identify graphite content or lack there of. I'm not opposed to paying more for the right product, but I'm also not about overpaying for something when a perfectly acceptable replacement is available a block down the road at 1/5 the price. BTW.... I hate paying S&H As you may have done, I looked at the MSDS for your product and didn't see graphite listed. As a comparison, I looked at a grease known to contain graphite and graphite was listed in the MSDS. To be sure you could contact your local Valvoline distributor, see if they can answer, if not they should be able to hook you up with that smart person at Valvoline that can definitively answer the question. I would bet that there is no graphite. |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 10:01:07 AM EDT
[#14]
Perfectly acceptable is in the eye of the beholder.
As a civilian you will probably never use or store your weapon in a way where problems could develop. As long as you TI the weapon on a regular basis the worst that could happen is you could wind up with an unserviceable upper somewhere down the road. If you really want to know what is in the grease contact the manufacturer. Personally if it was TEOTWAWKI and Auto Zone was the only choice I would at least get a moly fortified hi temp synthetic. |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 10:10:51 AM EDT
[#15]
Just TEOTWAWKI = bacon grease
Your rifle would get your hunger pangs going every time you shot it, though. 
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Posted: 3/25/2012 10:16:24 AM EDT
[#16]
White Lithium Grease is what I use as well.
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Posted: 3/25/2012 10:18:16 AM EDT
[#17]
if it was really the end of the world and you couldn't find grease I'm wondering if motor oil or automatic transmission fluid would be a good alternative to bacon grease?
and the grease you posted is moly fortified lithium grease should be just fine |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 11:14:11 AM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
Just TEOTWAWKI = bacon grease Your rifle would get your hunger pangs going every time you shot it, though. No bacon grease. Every guy in a five mile radius would zero in on you. 
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Posted: 3/25/2012 11:27:33 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Since graphite isn't considered a hazardous substance, it is not required to be listed in an MSDS. MOST automotive greases,and especially axle greases (like the Valvoline grease in the link) use graphite to assist with lubrication, whether they're petroleum based, lithium based or whatever. I ALWAYS recommend use of the most appropriate grease: one that meets MIL-G-21164. I use AeroShell 33MS (my 14oz tube will last me my whole life), but Honda Moly 60 also meets that spec and is available at Honda cycle shops. That tub of Valvoline grease probably cost pretty close to what my AeroShell 33MS cost...and I know my grease is not going to hurt my upper. Just out of curiosity, where do you buy your Aeroshell 33MS? I've always heard skygeek.com recommended. But I checked there...... the tube is $14.99, and the cheapest S&H option was $10. That's $25 for a 14 oz cartridge.... The valvoline stuff I picked up was $6. I got mine from Skygeek. Yes, it would be something like 4 times the cost to get it from them, but don't let that number run your life. It would be $18 more for something that the entire upper receiver assembly depends on. Have you looked around for a Honda cycle shop nearby? Moly 60 runs about $8 for a tube. It also meets the MIL-G spec and it is only a tiny bit more expensive than your Valvoline axle grease. Are you going to buy a plastic "tactical rail" for the gun? A cast flash hider? Furniture from "Joe's Cheap-As-They-Come Gun Parts"? They why go cheap on something this central to your barrel installation? |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 11:30:47 AM EDT
[#20]
I use a moly/lithium grease that is sold as an engine break-in lube for camshafts. The torque values for barrel installation are so wide that the small differences between moly greases don't matter.
Semper Fi |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 11:51:24 AM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Honda Moly 60 runs about $8 for a tube. It also meets the MIL-G spec and it is only a tiny bit more expensive than your Valvoline axle grease . The mil spec states a max of 5% moly. Honda Moly 60 has 15-20% moly. It's non-compliant.
Are you going to buy a plastic "tactical rail" for the gun? A cast flash hider? Furniture from "Joe's Cheap-As-They-Come Gun Parts"? They why go cheap on something this central to your barrel installation?
Just pick a moly grease that doesn't contain something that will promote galvanic corrosion. Edit: I'm a lube nut and even for me the barrel nut grease discussion thing gets a little wacky. We need a sticky that would list acceptable alternatives to Aero Shell 33MS which is not readily available and expensive with shipping factored in. The question comes up so often. Don't know if we could ever agree on the alternatives, though.
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Posted: 3/25/2012 5:30:01 PM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
I finally got that @&$?!@ spec to download so I could thoroughly reread it. You were more right than I was. Paragraph 3.5.1 states that the molybdenum disulfide content must be between 4.5 and 5.5%, so Moly 60 has "way too much" to meet the spec. The funny thing is that I've seen Moly 60 listed as compliant in several pretty reputable places.
Quoted:
Honda Moly 60 runs about $8 for a tube. It also meets the MIL-G spec and it is only a tiny bit more expensive than your Valvoline axle grease . The mil spec states a max of 5% moly. Honda Moly 60 has 15-20% moly. It's non-compliant.
Are you going to buy a plastic "tactical rail" for the gun? A cast flash hider? Furniture from "Joe's Cheap-As-They-Come Gun Parts"? They why go cheap on something this central to your barrel installation?
Just pick a moly grease that doesn't contain something that will promote galvanic corrosion. Edit: I'm a lube nut and even for me the barrel nut grease discussion thing gets a little wacky. We need a sticky that would list acceptable alternatives to Aero Shell 33MS which is not readily available and expensive with shipping factored in. The question comes up so often. Don't know if we could ever agree on the alternatives, though.
I agree that a tacked thread listing valid alternatives is a great idea. It would be nice if places with general aviation airports also made it easy to get aviation lubricants. San Antonio, where I live, is chock full of general aviation, yet the only local vendor I can find online only sells to dealers, etc. Crap. The Neco stuff looks promising, and probably won't cost too much to ship, either. |
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Posted: 3/25/2012 6:20:20 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
Just out of curiosity, where do you buy your Aeroshell 33MS? I've always heard skygeek.com recommended. But I checked there...... the tube is $14.99, and the cheapest S&H option was $10. That's $25 for a 14 oz cartridge.... The valvoline stuff I picked up was $6. Skygeek.com charges too much for shipping now. I picked up a tube last week from http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/aeroshellgrease.php. It was $16.60 shipped and had it in a few days. Enough grease to last a lifetime of building ARs. http://i.imgur.com/tJOCh.jpg Edit: Grabbed the wrong stuff off the workbench. You want to use the #33MS. |
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Posted: 3/26/2012 5:34:46 AM EDT
[#24]
The right stuff:
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Posted: 3/26/2012 8:20:33 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
The right stuff: http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg216/sergtjim/stylespilotshop_2199_1501801597.jpg I didn't want to break it to him.....it's OK though. 
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Posted: 3/26/2012 8:29:02 AM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just out of curiosity, where do you buy your Aeroshell 33MS? I've always heard skygeek.com recommended. But I checked there...... the tube is $14.99, and the cheapest S&H option was $10. That's $25 for a 14 oz cartridge.... The valvoline stuff I picked up was $6. Skygeek.com charges too much for shipping now. I picked up a tube last week from http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/aeroshellgrease.php. It was $16.60 shipped and had it in a few days. Enough grease to last a lifetime of building ARs. http://i.imgur.com/u7t97.jpg 33MS is only 2.30 more at this place. |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 4:05:11 PM EDT
[#27]
Bretshooter, you might also try http://pilotshq.com/product_info.php?products_id=1894 and see if it's any cheaper with shipping.
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Posted: 3/29/2012 5:29:57 PM EDT
[#28]
Use good hitemp grease or whatever you already have on hand.
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Posted: 3/29/2012 5:48:28 PM EDT
[#29]
Quoted:
Use good hitemp grease or whatever you already have on hand. That's the spirit. Ignore the recommended norm. What the Hell do they know! |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 5:51:32 PM EDT
[#30]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Use good hitemp grease or whatever you already have on hand. That's the spirit. Ignore the recommended norm. What the Hell do they know! This is two pieces of metal that dont move....you probably change your oil every 3,000 also dont you? |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 6:01:21 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Use good hitemp grease or whatever you already have on hand. That's the spirit. Ignore the recommended norm. What the Hell do they know! This is two pieces of metal that dont move....you probably change your oil every 3,000 also dont you? It is a piece of aluminum in high pressure, high temperature contact with a piece of steel. This is a very different thing from just puting a layer of Vaseline between a couple of steel plates. With the wrong grease, you could encourage corrosion, get the barrel nut to effectively cement to the the upper, or cause her damage. Sure, you might get away with it, but I'm not going to take that chance. |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 6:21:53 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted: Quoted: Just out of curiosity, where do you buy your Aeroshell 33MS? I've always heard skygeek.com recommended. But I checked there...... the tube is $14.99, and the cheapest S&H option was $10. That's $25 for a 14 oz cartridge.... The valvoline stuff I picked up was $6. Skygeek.com charges too much for shipping now. I picked up a tube last week from http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/aeroshellgrease.php. It was $16.60 shipped and had it in a few days. Enough grease to last a lifetime of building ARs. http://i.imgur.com/tJOCh.jpg Edit: Grabbed the wrong stuff off the workbench. You want to use the #33MS. Well now isn't that odd, it shows me a cost of 26.42 with shipping. 16.90 + 9.52 shipping. |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 6:28:35 PM EDT
[#33]
Some, idiots will even use Loctite instead of the correct grease
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Posted: 3/29/2012 7:41:23 PM EDT
[#34]
Well I ended up sucking it up and ordering the Aeroshell 33MS off of Aircraft Spruce. $22 bucks but screw it, I plan on building more than a few of these things, so I might as well do it right. Like many have said, the tube will last me a lifetime. That being said........... I successfully completed my first build tonight. I'll try to get up some pics tomorrow.
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Posted: 3/29/2012 8:17:17 PM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
In regards to barrel installation, I've heard from several sources that you should stay away from using grease containing graphite or aluminum. I just picked up this up at the local auto parts store: http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/grease-gear-oil/grease/65 It clearly states that it's moly fortified, but I can't find an ingredient list anywhere for the life of me to find out if it contains graphite or aluminum. Am I OK with this stuff? Here is what is in the grease you bought: 3. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS Components CAS-No. Concentration PETROLEUM DISTILLATE NJTS# 800986-5245P >=50-<60% RESIDUAL OILS (PETROLEUM), SOLVENT-DEWAXED 64742-62-7 >=30-<40% OLEFIN POLYMER NJTS# 254504001-5128 >=5-<10% MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE 1317-33-5 >=1.5-<5% ZINC C1-C14 ALKYLDITHIOPHOSPHATE 68649-42-3 >=1.5-<5% Here is the MSDS: MSDS |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 8:36:32 PM EDT
[#36]
Quoted:
Here is what is in the grease you bought: 3. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS Components CAS-No. Concentration PETROLEUM DISTILLATE NJTS# 800986-5245P >=50-<60% RESIDUAL OILS (PETROLEUM), SOLVENT-DEWAXED 64742-62-7 >=30-<40% OLEFIN POLYMER NJTS# 254504001-5128 >=5-<10% MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE 1317-33-5 >=1.5-<5% ZINC C1-C14 ALKYLDITHIOPHOSPHATE 68649-42-3 >=1.5-<5% Here is the MSDS: MSDS We had previously established that. Do you have an opinion of this grease ? |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 8:49:35 PM EDT
[#37]
As long as there is no inhibitors for pitting the aluminum, I wouldn't see any harm in using it. There are many types of grease or anti-seizes out there that would meet this criteria. If it is of comfort to you, use the Aeroshell, they make a quality product (although expensive) it meets the spec almost to a "T".
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Posted: 3/29/2012 9:08:48 PM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
As long as there is no inhibitors for pitting the aluminum, I wouldn't see any harm in using it. There are many types of grease or anti-seizes out there that would meet this criteria. If it is of comfort to you, use the Aeroshell, they make a quality product (although expensive) it meets the spec almost to a "T". I had previously told the OP that I would use that grease. Technically it's a little lower on moly but I don't see it as a deal breaker. Much better than some of the "substitutes" that one sees here. |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 9:13:29 PM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:
Quoted:
As long as there is no inhibitors for pitting the aluminum, I wouldn't see any harm in using it. There are many types of grease or anti-seizes out there that would meet this criteria. If it is of comfort to you, use the Aeroshell, they make a quality product (although expensive) it meets the spec almost to a "T". I had previously told the OP that I would use that grease. Technically it's a little lower on moly but I don't see it as a deal breaker. Much better than some of the "substitutes" that one sees here. Agreed, but this topic gets the heads spinning around here. There have been huge improvements in lubricants since this TM was written. |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 9:22:35 PM EDT
[#40]
This will makes some heads explode - Precision Reflex recommends using Anti-Seize when installing their barrel nuts. Go figure. What do they know, anyway?
PRI Float Tube install how-to |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 9:27:06 PM EDT
[#41]
Quoted:
Agreed, but this topic gets the heads spinning around here. Yes it does.
There have been huge improvements in lubricants since this TM was written.
Last time I looked, that spec has been revised a few times. Funny thing is that I dug into it a little one time and found that moly works so well that after 5%, roller bearings can stop rolling and begin to slide. The mil spec is not for bearing applications but I'm thinking that the 5% is there because of other applications. I believe it's a "borrowed" spec that points to a grease that is already in the military's inventory. |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 9:37:53 PM EDT
[#42]
Why would bearing grease contain graphite which some say can cause corrosion?
If it did why would you use it even on your wheel bearings where they are a lot more susceptible to moisture than any AR would ever be. I just use a tub of High Temp wheel bearing grease. |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 9:38:13 PM EDT
[#43]
Quoted:
This will makes some heads explode - Precision Reflex recommends using Anti-Seize when installing their barrel nuts. Go figure. What do they know, anyway? PRI Float Tube install how-to I think I see this in the "kit." PRI, what a ghetto outfit. Permatex 81343 Just a slight violation of the mil spec there. I don't think I've seen anything worse. It's got all the popular metals plus graphite. They just like exploding heads.
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Posted: 3/29/2012 9:43:27 PM EDT
[#44]
Quoted:
This will makes some heads explode - Precision Reflex recommends using Anti-Seize when installing their barrel nuts. Go figure. What do they know, anyway? PRI Float Tube install how-to I would see nothing wrong with that option either. Its used on spark plugs in alum heads and on O2 sensors in the exhaust which is very susceptible to condensation. |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 9:43:54 PM EDT
[#45]
Quoted:
Why would bearing grease contain graphite which some say can cause corrosion? If it did why would you use it even on your wheel bearings where they are a lot more susceptible to moisture than any AR would ever be. I just use a tub of High Temp wheel bearing grease. It's about "dissimilar metals" in contact and galvanic corrosion. Look it up. Wheel bearings have like metals in contact. |
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Posted: 3/29/2012 10:15:02 PM EDT
[#46]
I've been reading these barrel grease threads while waiting for my upper/lowers. Do I have to use a grease gun for the Aeroshell 33ms? I don't mind buying it, I'm just wondering what to do with what's left of it after this build. I'd like to build a bunch of them but I think $$ will be a major issue. Maybe I should just post in the MN section and a bunch of us can pass around a tube
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Posted: 3/29/2012 10:46:50 PM EDT
[#47]
Quoted:
I've been reading these barrel grease threads while waiting for my upper/lowers. Do I have to use a grease gun for the Aeroshell 33ms? I don't mind buying it, I'm just wondering what to do with what's left of it after this build. I'd like to build a bunch of them but I think $$ will be a major issue. Maybe I should just post in the MN section and a bunch of us can pass around a tube The tube is made from plastic, so cut the end with the plastic cap down to the point where you can get to the grease and keep that plastic end cap to seal it back up when you're done. |
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Posted: 3/30/2012 2:55:26 AM EDT
[#48]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I've been reading these barrel grease threads while waiting for my upper/lowers. Do I have to use a grease gun for the Aeroshell 33ms? I don't mind buying it, I'm just wondering what to do with what's left of it after this build. I'd like to build a bunch of them but I think $$ will be a major issue. Maybe I should just post in the MN section and a bunch of us can pass around a tube The tube is made from plastic, so cut the end with the plastic cap down to the point where you can get to the grease and keep that plastic end cap to seal it back up when you're done. I use a tongue depressor from the hobby store (they also have Popsicle sticks) to dig the stuff out. Which says how little you need for one barrel... Eventually I'll need to either cut the tube down or push the base up, but that'll be quite some time in the future. |
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Posted: 3/30/2012 7:26:57 AM EDT
[#49]
Well like I said, I went with the Aeroshell and it contributed to this final product....... my first build.
http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/KD273/DSC00054.jpg http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/KD273/DSC00057.jpg http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/KD273/DSC00055.jpg http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/KD273/DSC00056.jpg |
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Posted: 3/30/2012 9:59:18 AM EDT
[#50]
Nice rifle!
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