I normally use CLP for my main lubricant and various other stuff for cleaning. However, the other day I used a little wheel bearing grease on the bolt carrier/Upper receiver and charging handle. WOW! talk about a smooth rifle. Downside..............cleaning it kinda sucked! Anybody else do this on a regular basis?

I have done this only once just to see how it worked.I admit it was smooth at first...but it was also about 98 degree's outside at the time.But man what a freakin gummy baked on mess after firing.The grease caught ever bit of fouling that passed and created a gooy muck.Had to hose the upper out with kerosene.Im willing to bet anything below 60 degree's and the AR would not cycle.
That was my one and only experiment with automotive GL-2 grease on my weapons.About the only thing I would use it for is a barrel thread grease etc..
The AR needs something like CLP or a LP.
The only grease I have found to work well on just about any weapon is Mil-comm's TW-25B.Although its not really a grease,I consider it a heavy oil with a large amount of PTFE which gives it a thicker look/body.Its also weapons specific...and does not build up funk like GL-2 ro thicken when cold.

Quoted: I have done this only once just to see how it worked.I admit it was smooth at first...but it was also about 98 degree's outside at the time.But man what a freakin gummy baked on mess after firing.The grease caught ever bit of fouling that passed and created a gooy muck.Had to hose the upper out with kerosene.Im willing to bet anything below 60 degree's and the AR would not cycle. That was my one and only experiment with automotive GL-2 grease on my weapons.About the only thing I would use it for is a barrel thread grease etc.. The AR needs something like CLP or a LP. The only grease I have found to work well on just about any weapon is Mil-comm's TW-25B.Although its not really a grease,I consider it a heavy oil with a large amount of PTFE which gives it a thicker look/body.Its also weapons specific...and does not build up funk like GL-2 ro thicken when cold.

You probibly already tole me Blankwaffe but have you ever used Tetra Grease? If so what did you think.

I tried the Tetra for awhile before S-28 turned me onto TW-25B.I just did not like it.It did not offer very good rust protection in my experience(had a couple kimber barrels get some rust when coated heavy with it) and I was concerned about compatibility with certain finishes.
The warning on the package recommends testing in spots before use and I say thats good info.
Otherwise it was a pretty darn good lube.It just did not float my boat.

Quoted: The grease caught ever bit of fouling that passed and created a gooy muck.

Exactly! I've used grease on my 1911's and all is well. I got Derrick Martin's book and he says he uses grease on his rifles so I tried it. kinda cool for a while. Anyhow about the only merit to using grease might be on the recoil buffer and spring to keep the SPROING down.
Thanks for the replies!

I use white lithium grease on my ak, sks's and fal's.  Works great on them.  I lube them at least every 1000 rounds.  But they do not shit where they eat, err they do not send hot dirty gas into the action.

I have used tetra and tw25-b on my ar not a problem. I use pl-10 in the bufer spring. I hate that noise and a good finger full of pl-10 takes that noise right out.

For rifles like  a M1 garand you need grease. Those I use pl-10, or tetra. For me tw-25b seams to light. Not saying its bad as I never had any problems using it.

Never had a problem with the TW-25B being too thin or running off.But I have never had a M1A or used it on one.I do use TW-25B on the bolt and op-rod of my Garand without any problems.I run a level two or three application there.
I run TW-25B in the buffer tube of the AR.Seems to work pretty good.I never considered PL-10 for that since its so thick.
About the only thing I use PL-10 for is barrel threads etc..

The tw25-b never failed me, it just "looked" to light to me. I like grease to be more of a paste.

The Garand action is a little harder than the M1A only because of the roller on the M1A action. The level I use the grease at has to be 3+.

What I did notice is that my brass does not eject as far out of the rifle when I use PL-10 as compared to terta or tw-25b. I had a problem of rust on the op rod so I put it on heavy (to heavy IMHO).
M1 M14, anything from oil to grease and still function. AR will do the same if made right. The mess at the end of the day is a different matter.