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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 11/26/2003 4:49:48 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/26/2003 4:50:54 PM EST by JTinIN]
For batch cleaning Tittle II guns, including M16 & uppers, having been using mineral spirts with ATF (or MPRO 7 when inside during the winter) followed by a flush with brake cleaner (works great to clean out the chamber) and a pre-clean of the bore / chamber / muzzle with Hoppies #9 and/or CLP.

At which point everything is bone dry, so have been oiling everything with CLP foam and blow dry with dry compressed air (filtered) to give a protective coating of all the parts.

I then use a thicker oil such as the older 20mm cannon lube by Break Free or LSA in high wear areas during a seperate operation (might be getting into this a little too much

Was thinking maybe should consider a dunk type lube to provide a general over all oil film.

One option could be a gallon or so of CLP in a buck that I toss the parts in and then blow off with compressed air (might have to thin from time to time). Other option is to use Ed's Red (w/o acetone due to fire issues and platic in todays firearms) with the lanilon (sp?).

Anyone have a good home mix or comerical product for bulk type operations following the initial cleaning? (one of the ultra sonic companies has a 2nd rinse/lube solution and Cyl&Slide used to sell a bucket of something)?

Link Posted: 11/26/2003 6:47:08 PM EST
JT, I do the Sonic tank Jockey gig as an armorer at a sensitive facility. I know absolutely what it is you are digging for.... a 2 step routine! Clean+Lube= DONE! Here's my routine. Scrub bore using MPro-7 or Simple Green(I have issues with environazis as well as EPA type regs and can't use anything that ain't green frindly) Scrub chamber and barrel extensions. Toss in tank with the rest of the rifle.Make rifle soup. Rinse in 140 degree water. Blow dry(Filtered air). Apply Mist of TW25B(Mill-Com) EP from sprayer bottle at 3oz of TW25 mixed into 1 qt of 91% Isopropyl alcohol to entire weapon.Inside and out. Allow for evaporation time of alcohol carrier,reassemble,and then wipe off excess on weapon exteriors. Done. In EP form the lube gets into places other lubes will not. Level 1 EP mix is 4 oz to the quart,but is rather heavy for my tastes so I shaved it by an ounce and it has worked out VERY well! One drawback.... TW25B can be expensive if you don't get the L.E. or agency discount. If you can afford it,it's like a ray of sunshine in the middle of a Febuary snowstorm. Other options I have used and some of our guys are using. Boil,rinse,and dry the weapon. Dunk in Mobil Med. bearing oil.(Cheaper by the drum!) (Use a section of PVC gutter capped at both ends.) Blow off excess.Punch bore 3-4 times and swab out chamber. Another routine I used to have was.... Boil,rinse,dry, then CLP applied from an airbrush.Wipe off excess punch bore and chamber. Health hazzards from airborne CLP kinda got my attention though and knocked that off after several months. Just got another Crest tank and I gotta tell you...The things are the shit! The cost savings on cleaning solvents will pay for one at my level in 8 months. Add the pressurized filtration system and it gets even cheaper over the long run. And the BIG kicker? If you reload match Brass,just toss the stuff in and clean it without all the noisy tumbler nonsense! (Don't tell the boss!) Hope this helps!!! S-28
Link Posted: 11/27/2003 6:10:04 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/27/2003 6:11:20 AM EST by JTinIN]
Originally Posted By S-28: ... Apply Mist of TW25B(Mill-Com) EP from sprayer bottle at 3oz of TW25 mixed into 1 qt of 91% Isopropyl alcohol to entire weapon.Inside and out. .....
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Thanks was a great help, had been looking at the air brush route for the CLP and most of all like the idea of using alcohol as a carrier. Have been using an ultra sonic for years and we always used Isopropyl Alcohol as the last rinse in the lab (is a risk of fire from using a solvent in the ultrasonic ... but we just never told the alcohol that is could burn ... [;)]. Should stop by and see the cleaning when I am up in Michigan .... [b][red]LOL[/b][/red] [i](I worked for the DOD in the distance past and one could not even visit themself at times).[/i]
Link Posted: 11/27/2003 12:21:35 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/27/2003 12:23:45 PM EST by 199]
Where I used to work, I cleaned a lot of Sig pistols in an ultrasonic cleaner and finished up with L&R Mfg’s Gun Lubricating Solution, which sounds like it would work for you. Note that it’s thin. However, being thin, it didn't get used up too quickly. I typically blew the solution dry (especially in nooks and crannies) with an air compressor and then finished up by putting CLP on high friction areas. It’s also doggone expensive. Dealer price from Brownells is $43 a gallon!! Here’s Brownell’s listing, it’s the last item on the page: [url]www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7768&title=ULTRASONIC+CLEANING+%26+LUBRICATION+SYSTEMS&s=19591#19591[/url]
Link Posted: 11/27/2003 1:03:39 PM EST
Was talking to L&R about using their product if not in a an ultrasonic. Looks interesting for an option. While there are many very good water based cleaners (including MPRO 7 and the various ultrasonic solvents) I still tend to like the older solvents that contain little to no water (i.e. minearl sprits, trichlor etc.). I typically rinse the MPRO 7 off with a hard solvent before lubing (don't have to but ...)
Link Posted: 11/27/2003 1:37:37 PM EST
Note that the product I mentioned above is a lubricant, not a solvent. Brownell’s also sells a petroleum based solvent that they describe as leaving a slightly oily finish to protect against rust. Obviously, I’m not suggesting it as a lubricant. It [b]might[/b] do what you want. [url]www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1135&title=TANK+SOLVENT&s=4045#4045[/url] I, too, prefer petroleum based solvents. However, they’re quite a bit more expensive that water based ones. Plus, because of the cost, I’m less inclined to dump them until they get really dirty.
Link Posted: 11/27/2003 2:13:31 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/27/2003 2:14:11 PM EST by JTinIN]
Originally Posted By 199: Note that the product I mentioned above is a lubricant, not a solvent. ....
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Thanks for the clarification, besides being used as a lube, appears in the L&R system that this product is used to "chase" the last of the cleaning solvent from the tiny spaces (one concern was with out using the ultra sonic this action might be compromised).
From Spec sheet: Blended, specialty lubricants in a mild solvent base give uniform dry lubrication. Odorless, non-toxic and biodegradable....
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Link Posted: 11/27/2003 3:06:01 PM EST
JT, The L&R lube works fine for revolvers where a light oil does just the trick. We quickly found that with the M4 and the semi auto pistols,that the L&R dunk lube just dosn't get it. Hence some of our guys going with the Mobil Med. Bearing lube. The stuff is cheaper by about 2/3 and works pretty well even on the crew served stuff. It's just time consuming to blow off the excess,and messy as you can imagine. CLP by the gallon is about the same cost as L&R's dunk lube and much better at killing leftover cleaning agents. Which brings me to the cleaning agent rinse routine. HOT Flowing water. Can't beat it. Even with Trike. Ain't gotta worry about blowing things up either! I miss Trike for many things but after boil rinse ain't one of them. Used to keep a tin of bag Balm in the armory on account of the bloody dry cracks in the paws. Good luck to ya! And if you ever find the perfect 2 step process PLEASE share! Holler if you are heading up this way. Might have to dirty up a rifle or two if possible. Keep safe! S-28
Link Posted: 11/27/2003 3:15:10 PM EST
Ended up going with good solvent resistant lab gloves (day job includes taking care of a scanning electron microscope ... so too many solvents there also ... plus at work our idea of a "solvent" is near boiling H2SO4 or heated fumming red nitric ... tend to wear gloves a lot).
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