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Posted: 8/24/2004 2:56:28 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/4/2004 4:47:54 PM EDT by GITrinec]
I would like to know if anyone could help with the removal of the muzzle brake of my colt match target m4 for the purpose of adding a rail system? Here are the pictures of the muzzle brake they seem to be held on with 2 pins unknown exact size and correct punch to use anyone have an idea.?

left side

right side

Link Posted: 8/24/2004 5:13:26 PM EDT

I've never done it but someone probably has and can help you. Dont know what you mean to do with the barrel after it's off, but it's probably pretty ugly under that brake. (And somebody's gonna do it sooner or later so I'll do it gently--it's a muzzle brake. Brake.)

Link Posted: 8/24/2004 7:22:20 PM EDT
Spelling fixed for all of the spelling b champs hy

Link Posted: 8/25/2004 4:39:33 PM EDT
Come on guys, how about a little help for GITrinec. Not to mention that I've been considering doing the same with my postban Colt. Any help / advice is greatly appreciated!
Link Posted: 8/25/2004 8:25:03 PM EDT
ya Im sure someone knows how I thought this was a help forum haha. Lots of ridicule thoughSo noone knows how to do this guess ill have to go to a gunsmith and spend money bet i might get some answers on how much money I could spend at one haha
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 3:30:57 AM EDT
I'd venture with the correct size punch and a hammer those would come right out, then the brake will slide off leaving a non threaded barrel with 2 groves in the sides. If it gets messed up....send it off to somebody like ADCO. Have them thread it and put a flash suppressor or what ever floats your boat after Sept 14.
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 3:40:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/26/2004 6:26:17 AM EDT by GITrinec]
jjmcrowell thank you for your reply. I am going to get a bench block from brownells and try it soon I'll let every one know how it turns out in case someone else needs the same info. A gunsmith tells me that these are also threaded FYI. Guess Ill find out soon. Ill post some pics as the progress moves along.


Colt uses 1/8" straight dowel pins for retention. I always drive them out from left to right, just like tapered pins. Heat the brake to @400-500 degrees, and, inserting a proper size drive pin punch in the front slot, rotate back and forth, working the brake forward while it is still hot. It's a slip-on. Thx.
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 5:48:19 PM EDT
Just don't use your AR pin punch. They will bend or break. Get a concaved punch from the hardware store.
Link Posted: 9/4/2004 3:52:35 PM EDT
Hey all here is the update on me removing the muzzle brake what a snap the one on my colt match target m4 did not need to be heated up at all all I had to do was hammer out the pins and then pull the brake off. Here is the picture of my barrel after removing the

sling swivel, http://tinypic.com/4drp1

front sight base http://tinypic.com/4dro1

and the muzzle brake http://tinypic.com/4drms


So Far I believe all the pins are in tack the brownells rifle bench block and the front sight post block helped alot. I will post more picks when I get to putting the larue rail on .

Link Posted: 9/4/2004 5:29:34 PM EDT
Nice Work. How hard was it to remove the Colt taper pins?


Link Posted: 9/4/2004 5:39:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/4/2004 5:39:55 PM EDT by GITrinec]
Those were the hardest to remove took a few wacks to get them out I used a Taper Pin Starter From Brownells the pins didnt get dammaged but the taper pin starter took a small little dink in the tip but nothing to bad then I used a regular punch pin to tap the pins out the rest of the way.
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