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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 7/17/2005 12:28:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/17/2005 7:22:34 PM EDT by Dace]
I had messed up my lower receiver a few weeks ago as referenced in this thread...
www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=242081

I finaly got my Norells Moly Resin and refinished the rifle. I wont go into exactly what I did, suffice it to say I did what everyone else has and followed those directions (I followed Stickmans write up to the T, even using the same airbrush).

My rifle had been pianted with Krylon, been used for a long time, droppped a few times, dragged a bunch more, dropped in a bucket of Castrol Super Clean, and just abused.

I was going to do this huge write up with lots of pictures detailing the whole process, but I am too excited about the way this turned out, I just have to post it now.

So here are the before and after pictures....

Before pictures again.






And after (to give you a persepctive of inside light vs outside, the pictures with the natural wood are inside, the pictures with the cardboard and white wood are outside)....







I messed up on a few parts. Mainly from the thing falling over when I was refinishing it. It has nothing to do with the Moly Resin or the process. They were all my mistake. For my first time, I think it turned out awesome.

Its not perfect, but damn does it look better then before.
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 12:33:01 PM EDT



ROCK ON!!
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 12:35:36 PM EDT
Hot damn! That looks awesome!
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 12:54:46 PM EDT
That turned out nice... I definitely am going to try Norrells when I do an 80% lower.
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 1:26:36 PM EDT
great job. Can u touch up the norrel once u heat it ? I have few scratches on mine that I need to refinish as well.
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 1:28:33 PM EDT
kick ass!!!
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 1:51:27 PM EDT
congrats on one kick ass job.
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 1:56:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/17/2005 1:58:13 PM EDT by Repete]

Originally Posted By exocet:
great job. Can u touch up the norrel once u heat it ? I have few scratches on mine that I need to refinish as well.



Norrells touches up very well. Just degrease, recoat and bake.

Nice job, Dace!
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 2:02:24 PM EDT
WOW wonderful job!
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 2:37:33 PM EDT
That did come out very nice. Congratulatoins.
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 2:54:52 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Dace:
I finaly got my Norells Moly Resin and refinished the rifle. I wont go into exactly what I did, suffice it to say I did what everyone else has and followed those directions (I followed Stickmans write up to the T, even using the same airbrush).

Its not perfect, but damn does it look better then before.



I think it looks great. The minor imperfections where it fell over can be resprayed the next time you are working a Norrells project, just degrease and spray over it. Either that or just leave it as a bit of character, which is what I would do.

After having finished everything, is there anything you can think of that should be added to the pre-ban AR15 Refinishing Guide? Feel free to email or IM me, or just post any comments here. I'm always interested in the opinion of people who are doing it for the first time, as their input will help others the most.

Thanks, and once again, very nice job!
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 3:04:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/17/2005 3:08:25 PM EDT by entropy762]

Originally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
That turned out nice... I definitely am going to try Norrells when I do an 80% lower.



I reccomend anodizing the lower before applying Norells. Anodizing the aluminum sort of case hardens the aluminum. This helps in keeping the FCG pins from pushing or upsetting the pin holes in lower. The first 80% I did I ruined the holes for the FCG pins when I was test dry firing the lower. I ended up with elongated pin holes the really messed with the function of the disconnector sear and the hammer. I ended up using JB weld to fix it but it looks like crap and I dont trust it. I've been thinking of making bushings and reaming the pin holes oversized to accept them for steel on steel contact. The next one I'm going to do I'm defenatly going to hard anodize. There is alot of good info at this palce.....www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 6:23:04 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Repete:

Originally Posted By exocet:
great job. Can u touch up the norrel once u heat it ? I have few scratches on mine that I need to refinish as well.



Norrells touches up very well. Just degrease, recoat and bake.

Nice job, Dace!


do I still need to heat up the part first ?
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 7:05:00 PM EDT
Great job. Moly resin is hard to beat!
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 7:05:43 PM EDT
The only odd thing I have experienced is that the finish is a little rough. It feels more like parkerizing then a smooth paint finish. I think either 1.) I put it on to thick right away or 2.) I had the airgun too far away. or maybe both. It still looks good, it just feels like really fine sandpaper.
Link Posted: 7/17/2005 7:09:29 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Dace:
The only odd thing I have experienced is that the finish is a little rough. It feels more like parkerizing then a smooth paint finish. I think either 1.) I put it on to thick right away or 2.) I had the airgun too far away. or maybe both. It still looks good, it just feels like really fine sandpaper.




Mine does that too. So after a refinish I take a rag and some laquer thinner and rub the surface. You'll see a very minute ammount rub off but this is just the stuff that didnt stick. With time and use it seems to slick up a little too.
Link Posted: 7/18/2005 5:48:57 AM EDT

Originally Posted By exocet:
do I still need to heat up the part first ?



The preheat forces the spray to dry immediately to prevent runs and wet spots. I would recommend preheat every time.
Pete
Link Posted: 7/18/2005 10:50:39 AM EDT
Wow, what a difference a re-finish job does. Good Job!
Link Posted: 7/18/2005 11:06:27 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Repete:

Originally Posted By exocet:
do I still need to heat up the part first ?



The preheat forces the spray to dry immediately to prevent runs and wet spots. I would recommend preheat every time.
Pete



thanks
Link Posted: 7/18/2005 6:06:53 PM EDT
Nice Job, Looks Great.
Link Posted: 7/18/2005 6:56:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/18/2005 6:59:13 PM EDT by Slug-O]
YOU DA MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Link Posted: 7/19/2005 6:37:50 AM EDT
+1
Link Posted: 7/19/2005 8:21:33 AM EDT
Looks like a damn awesome job.
Link Posted: 7/19/2005 10:12:34 AM EDT


Link Posted: 9/11/2005 9:11:16 PM EDT
i am spechless ...

better than new hug.gif
Link Posted: 9/11/2005 9:17:12 PM EDT
Wow. Great job!
Link Posted: 9/11/2005 9:30:27 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/13/2005 7:21:18 AM EDT
Glad to hear this story has a happy ending!

Nice work!
Link Posted: 9/13/2005 7:27:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/13/2005 7:34:51 AM EDT by memyselfandi]
Where would you find a gun tore up like that? I'm sure you got it for cheap....unless you yourself victimized that rifle...and then the question would be WHY WOULD YOU DO SUCH A HORRIBLE THING!! hehe that seems like it would be a fun project..


-edit-

Oh durr, read your link. I need to stop scanning through threads so quickly. So lemme see if I understand this correctly. Was the receiver rough like that before whoever painted it with that black stuff? And so in the bucket it just revealed the actual condition of the anodizing?
Link Posted: 9/13/2005 7:40:15 AM EDT
nice job, looks good.
Link Posted: 9/13/2005 8:28:39 AM EDT

Originally Posted By memyselfandi:
Where would you find a gun tore up like that? I'm sure you got it for cheap....unless you yourself victimized that rifle...and then the question would be WHY WOULD YOU DO SUCH A HORRIBLE THING!! hehe that seems like it would be a fun project..


-edit-

Oh durr, read your link. I need to stop scanning through threads so quickly. So lemme see if I understand this correctly. Was the receiver rough like that before whoever painted it with that black stuff? And so in the bucket it just revealed the actual condition of the anodizing?



The receiver had been anodized. Is my understanding that the anodizing also has a dye included with it to turn the receiver black. I bought that receiver brand new from the manufacturer and it was perfect, never a problem. The black part of any AR receiver is not the anodizing itself but a dye. When I put the reciever in the bucket of CSC, it wuickly stripped the finish (which was not paint) and left only the anodizing. I am sure if I left it in the CSC longer, it would have begun to eat away at the anodizing as well.

You can tell the anodizing is left because its a dull flat greyish appearance. The pure aluminum underneath is much much more shinier.

Hopefully that answers your question.
Link Posted: 9/13/2005 5:50:25 PM EDT
This just goes to show, for those that want to "re-anodize" that with the Norrell's you can do this at home, yourself, with no experience, minimal costs, and not have to deal with the problems of shipping a "firearm". And if you do upper and lower together, they have to match.

Even with the few boo-boo's he had, the receivers still looked good.

If the surface is degreased well, everything done as per instructions, the finish is quite durable and will hold up for a very long time.
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