How would I go about removing a factory installed Krinkov flash hider from a 14.5" Bushmaster barrel? Is it possible? I did a search on several different word combos and came up empty. Can someone here shed some light on the subject???????



ETA: Update below!

I hear its a real pain to do yourself. I think I read a while back that adco does it.

www.adcofirearms.com

BTT for the day crew.......

Go to the third topic down in this forum. How to build your own lower, upper etc. The last post is by Falarak and it gives instructions on how to remove a Mini Y Comp. I did mine by following those instructions, and reinstalled a permanently attached Phantom FH. I would think that those instructions would work for the Krink brake. Check out the photos and your barrel for sure. When I did mine, I made sure that I stopped before I came to the muzzle and threads. I then split it off with a cold chisel. Have more than one cutting wheel for your dremel. I stopped short of the muzzle and finished with a hacksaw for more control.  

I just finished doing this very thing to my 14.5" Bushmaster M4A3 with Izzy compensator/flash hider. I imagine the same process might work for the Krinkov brake. First, get out your Dremel. Get yourself some of those reinforced cut-off wheels for it. I went through approx a half of one getting my Izzy off. you should see a welded-over pin on the top and bottom of the flash hider/brake. Determine how much material you have before you get to the threads. Start grinding on each side of it--fore and aft. When you get most of the way through the brake, but not yet to the threads, take a breather and grab a beer. Then start cutting to the left and the right of the pin. When you've got the pin kinda standing there almost free, grab it with some needlenose vice grips and yank 'er out. Repeat on the other pin on the other side. Unscrew brake/flash hider.

BTW: Make sure you give your lower to someone to hold onto until you've permanently installed another flash hider/brake to bring the barrel up to 16". You don't want to be in constructive possession of an SBR. Of course, this step is unnecessary if you have an RDIAS.

Bushmaster blind-pins AND silver solders the brakes on, so there's a lot of work involved.  If you don't like the set-up you have, you are FAR better off selling the upper or just the barrel to someone who might want it and buy yourself what it is you do want.  The work involved is tedious (it's "permanent" for a reason) and it will destroy the krink brake and will likely heavily damage the threads on the barrel.  Just not worth it to remove, both your time and your money.

I'm not seeing any welded over pins! How far down would I begin to see the signs for one? Could this brake just be silver soldered on?

Before you remove the Krink comp, what are you planning on doing?  Are you going to install a phantom flash suppresor?  Are you going to permanently attach it yourself or have a gunsmith do it?  Are you going to send it to someone?  It might be easier and come out the same ($$) to sell it to someone who is looking for that type of barrel and buy a new barrel in the configuration you want.  

Quoted: Before you remove the Krink comp, what are you planning on doing?  Are you going to install a phantom flash suppresor?  Are you going to permanently attach it yourself or have a gunsmith do it?  Are you going to send it to someone?  It might be easier and come out the same ($$) to sell it to someone who is looking for that type of barrel and buy a new barrel in the configuration you want.

I got the barrel for a great price. It does not have a FSB, as it was supposedly cut off (for what reason, I don't know).
It is a HBAR 1/9 bushmaster barrel with a krinkov brake.

I will attach a new HBAR FSB and a phantom FH to it myself, after I get the krinkov off. I am not seeing any signs of it (the krinkov) being pinned however. Not sure how it's on there....................................

I would accept offers or trades from anyone who would like to tackle this, if not I will do it myself...........

Similar topic HERE...

Thanks SBR7_11!

Your post gives me the confidence to continue. I will post my experiences after I'm through.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.

Just for future reference, my Bushmaster with AK brake had a cross pin and was basically epoxied in place.

Drove out the pin, clamped barrel in vise, took a wrench to the AK brake and twisted it off.  Epoxy, or whatever, sort of crumbled away once I broke its grip.

The barrel wasn't threaded underneath.

So, since yours isn't pinned, it may be threaded and silver-soldered.

OK! I got the krinkov off.
It was pinned, but not at 12 and 6 as most have said. This one was pinned at 9 and 3, and deeply into the barrel. once the pins were out, it unscrewed fine.

Now for the next part......

I have put the barrel nut on, handguard cap and slid the FSB on. I trued it up as best I could with an upper and a square. I need some advice on how to secure the FSB to the barrel. The taper pin holes almost match, but it leaves the handguard cap loose. How should I proceed?

the handguard shouldnt be a problem as long as the handguards fit on fine. the handguards should press the cap against the fsb, if not you need to get a fsb that isnt drilled yet and have it drilled to your bbl.

Quoted: Now for the next part...... I have put the barrel nut on, handguard cap and slid the FSB on. I trued it up as best I could with an upper and a square. I need some advice on how to secure the FSB to the barrel. The taper pin holes almost match, but it leaves the handguard cap loose. How should I proceed?

You are missing the really important part that everyone learns when they get to the point you are at in replacing a front sight base...

Front sight bases and barrels are drilled/reamed/pinned as an assembled pair.
There is no spec as to where they get pinned as it does not matter.
They are not meant to be swapped around.
If there is a problem with the front sight base, you just replace the whole barrel assembly.

Now that we have that  behind us, here's what you have to do...
Remove the rivet holding your sling swivel to the front sight base.
Tap the hole that's revealed for a setscrew, whatever size you have that works is fine.
Install the barrel on the receiver.
Install the front sight base on the barrel and slide it back against the handguard cap good and tight.
Make sure it's aligned straight up, there are sight alignment bars you can buy if you are working with an A1 or A2 receiver.
Tighten the setscrew to hold the FSB into place.
Take the barrel back off the receiver.
Set it up in the milling machine so you can drill down through the front sight base AND barrel in one operation with an endmill.
A drill bit will simply follow the two mis-aligned existing holes.
You will need to go oversize a couple sizes.
Factory taper pins are 2/0.
You can go to a 5/32" spring pin or a #0 taper pin, your choice.
www.mcmaster.com has taper pin reamers and taper pins.
You will likely have to shorten a 1" long taper pin as you will not find the proper 13/16" length easily available.
Ream the depth as required to make the head of the taper pin just above flush.
Shorten the taper pin from the small end.

Do the front pin completely, and install the pin, then remove the setscrew and do the rear pin.

Good luck on your adventure.
I do everything on AR-15 barrels, but I hate front sight base work...

Randall Rausch
www.ar15barrels.com