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10/20/2017 1:01:18 AM
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 9/18/2005 8:08:46 AM EDT
Dunno which forum to post this in so here's where it's going, feel free to move as needed. What finishes do you all have on your more combat oriented ARs? I'm looking at having Black T done but there are so many options I'd like to get some opinions from everyone out there. What do you use, what have you used, what works well? Pics, of course.
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 9:34:14 AM EDT
My duty weapon is refinished with Norrells SOCOM (matte black).
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 9:35:38 AM EDT
How much of that did you need? How do you like it?
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 10:46:46 AM EDT
Funny you should ask, I like it enough that I wrote up an in depth "how-to" article. It should answer all of your questions, I'll dig up a few pictures for you.


AR15 REFINISHING GUIDE
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 2:33:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/19/2005 2:27:53 PM EDT by enforcer22]
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 3:17:05 PM EDT
Has anybody done a polymer framed pistol (not trying to hijack your thread) like a USP or Glock. Would something with a high curing temp like gunkote work OK or is duracoat the best way to go?
I suppose this would apply to other high strength plastics as well.
Thanks
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 4:06:15 PM EDT

Originally Posted By G3k:
Has anybody done a polymer framed pistol (not trying to hijack your thread) like a USP or Glock. Would something with a high curing temp like gunkote work OK or is duracoat the best way to go?
I suppose this would apply to other high strength plastics as well.
Thanks



Good question.

I just refinished an AR lower with Norrells, it eas so easy to use and get a perfect finish I'm looking for more parts to coat. Thinking about doing the slide on my 13 year old 1st gen Glock 23 as it's showing it's age.. Dunno about coating the frame and baking it at 300F tho.
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 5:06:44 PM EDT
Reduce the heat to 250 degree and let cure for 90 minutes. I do this all the time, and even cheap plastics can take the heat. If you are really concerned, drop the heat to 200 or 225 for 2 hours.
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 9:26:48 PM EDT
Thanks Stick, I'll try it out with some mag floorplates before I try the frame, that should be a good indicator.
Link Posted: 9/19/2005 10:45:58 AM EDT
Does gunkote do the same thing? Ive got 2 bayos I want to guncote to prevent rust, but they dont want to dissassemble so the handles wont come off. Can you drop the temp on gunkote and still have a successful finish?
Link Posted: 9/19/2005 12:11:20 PM EDT

Originally Posted By bloodsport2885:
Does gunkote do the same thing? Ive got 2 bayos I want to guncote to prevent rust, but they dont want to dissassemble so the handles wont come off. Can you drop the temp on gunkote and still have a successful finish?



I only use norrells. I have heard that they are similar, but I've also been told that GunKote sprays and covers differently than the Norrells, so I don't have a first hand answer.

If it were my project, I would spray it, cure it at 250 for 90 minutes, and then use acetone or lacquer thinner to test it and see if it cured. If it comes off, its not cured, so leave it in longer.
Link Posted: 9/27/2005 8:21:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/27/2005 8:22:27 AM EDT by anykey]
Stickman, that was an excellent write up you did. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.

I have done 3 AK's using Norrel's, and have gotten better results as I learned the little tricks along the way. My SAR3 I just did turned out really nice. I wish I had seen your guide the first time around.

I purchased a very nice NAM era upper off the boards about a year ago, and right now I have a RRA lower on it. I have been wanting to refinish the gun to match, and have been looking at the Grayish Flat Black. Has anyone done one of the NAM era builds using this color? If so, were you happy with the results?

I have also been wondering if I need to compltely disassemble the lower. Was the trigger on the original rifles black, or did it match the rest of the rifle? How about the pins, mag release, safety, etc.. I would like to just leave it assembled, but want to be as correct as possible. (OF course I am using a RRA lower, so how correct can it get?!)

Thanks in advance for any info.
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