I'm having FTE almost every round.  I think the are realeasing too soon and falling back in or hitting the top of the ejection port.  The extractor looks ok, what should I be looking for?
The gun is a RRA upper, integrally suppressed.  I'm useing a Hahn block, I was already having the problem with a RRA block so I don't think that is the problem.  If I cycle them by hand it seems to work.  
Someone please help so my nice looking quiet SBR isn't a single shot.

Joe Black can help U. He mentioned something about brushing the case with a black magic marker to see if it is working right. Maybe he will see this soon for u. Maybe  recoil spring in the stock, is it the right one?

The buffer is the starndard CAR buffer, standard spring also.  I don't change the buffer or spring when I switch between the 9mm and .223 uppers

Quoted: The buffer is the starndard CAR buffer, standard spring also.  I don't change the buffer or spring when I switch between the 9mm and .223 uppers

You mean standard CAR spring?

Yea, standard CAR spring

OH what kind of ammo you using? I started with some Remington shit and my gun did not like it. I use Winchester white box no problems.

115gr Winchester White box, FMJ

Well I think all my knowledge is used up on the subject. PAGING JOE BLACK!. M60Joe

Check to see if the extractor roll pin has moved up into the fake gas key.  The extractor roll pin through the bolt holds the extractor in place.  However, the extractor roll pin is a 1/4 inch shorter than the combination of the thickness of the fake gas key and the diameter of the bolt.  Thus. the extractor roll pin can work itself up into the fake gas key such that the extractor is no longer held in proper position within the bolt by the extractor roll pin.  Thus. the extractor can be pushed back into the bolt about  .08 such that it does not grab the cartridge reliably.  Thus. FTEs occur.

There are two fixes.

Easiest
1. Push out extractor roll pin.  Pin pushes out through fake gas key.  Position extractor properly by looking through extractor roll pin hole to see that the extractor is lined up correctly.  Put in old extractor roll pin back through the fake gas key and punch it down so that it is only within the bolt  and not in fake gas key part).  Just check it ever so often to make sure it is staying down.

Best
Buy a longer roll pin at hardware store of appropriate diameter and trim to a length equivalent to the combined diameter of the bolt and thickness of the fake gas key.  

ETA-- I have also seen some people double roll pin (one roll pin within another roll pin) to make sure the pin stays.

The poster above has the repair going in the right direction.....

Common problem as posted here is them RRA bolts  use a rolled up piece of scrap metal to retain the extractor..  THROW IT AWAY LAST WEEK  --- Go to hardware and get a normal split type everyday roll pin and use it.

With the rifle assembled, no magazine and properly unloaded, look in the ejection port, and slowly pull bolt to rear, watching for the eject figer to emerge from the bolt face... COLT®   by design did not leave much for the ejector to contact the case,, soooo you want the ejector adjusted to just clear bolt toward the center and top of the cut-out on the bolt face to maximize case contact when it taps the case out of the rifle.  

Also make sure the empty is not hitting the feed lip on the magazine, as some peoples mags sit a hair too high.

Thanks, I'll look to see if that is my problem.  I know it's not hitting the feed lips because I had FTE even without the mag inserted

I check the ejector and it's fine.  I don't think its the block because its done it with two different blocks.

Quoted: I'm having FTE almost every round.  I think the are releasing too soon and falling back in or hitting the top of the ejection port.  The extractor looks ok, what should I be looking for? The gun is a RRA upper, integrally suppressed.  I'm using a Hahn block, I was already having the problem with a RRA block so I don't think that is the problem.  If I cycle them by hand it seems to work.   Someone please help so my nice looking quiet SBR isn't a single shot.

Check the head space.  Mark the extraction groove on a few cartridges with black magic marker.  Cycle the cartridges thru the gun.  Did the extractor remove the black marker all the way down into the groove?  Try the same when actually shooting the gun. Extractor actually hold a round when you push it in the bolt? (Take the bolt out of the gun and see)

Have you tried different mags?  Are the cartridges in the mag hitting the spent cartridge? (if they are too high up into the gun)

Like Dave said, bend the ejector over so it's just sliding on the bolt clearance surface.

Quoted: Like Dave said, bend the ejector over so it's just sliding on the bolt clearance surface.

How do you adjust the ejector (bend it over)? How to do it without breaking it.

b

Quoted: Quoted: Like Dave said, bend the ejector over so it's just sliding on the bolt clearance surface. How do you adjust the ejector (bend it over)? How to do it without breaking it. b

Just bend it a little.  I've never seen one so hard that it just broke instead of bending... YMMV

joeblack,

Thanks, bent the ejector a little using an adjustable wrench. Now fail to eject every other round instead of every round, (ejection still poor, empty case dribbles out). But, if I remove the magazine, then fire a round, it ejects fine tossing the empty about 3 feet away. The extractor holds a loaded round fine (I took the bolt out and hooked a loaded round under it).

Everything is RRA (upper, lower, guts, buffer and one-piece mag adapter).

Magazines are Colt w/plastic follower.

Getting to hate this 9mm hanks
barry

Quoted: Everything is RRA (upper, lower, guts, buffer and one-piece mag adapter). Magazines are Colt w/plastic follower. Getting to hate this 9mm

This picture is of all RRA parts -- the ejector can be see at about four o'clock. Is this how your ejector looks in the pocket?


This is a picture with the upper removed and colt mag in place -- notice the position of the ejector over the mag. Does this look like yours?


If everything looks good in your setup then the last possibility is the spent round is just hitting the magazine and being knocked out of the bolt before it hits the ejector -- check that there is a little gap between the top of the mag and the bottom of the ejector like the lower picture. Hope this is some help.

Quoted: joeblack, Thanks, bent the ejector a little using an adjustable wrench. Now fail to eject every other round instead of every round, (ejection still poor, empty case dribbles out). But, if I remove the magazine, then fire a round, it ejects fine tossing the empty about 3 feet away. The extractor holds a loaded round fine (I took the bolt out and hooked a loaded round under it). Everything is RRA (upper, lower, guts, buffer and one-piece mag adapter). Magazines are Colt w/plastic follower. Getting to hate this 9mm Thanks barry

wanna sell it?
but seriously, be patient there are good people here trying to help you and from the looks of it they are steering you in the right path.

Quoted: The extractor holds a loaded round fine (I took the bolt out and hooked a loaded round under it). barry

Just because the bolt holds the round doesn't mean the head space is correct.  The round still could be in the chamber too deep and the extractor isn't going into the case extraction groove.  Try the magic marker like stated above.

I bent the ejector so it looks like the pic and it clears the mag and rounds.

Just wondering why it would eject great if there is no mag inserted? Mag too high?

Thanks you guys, will try the headspace check.

Will keep you guys updated.

barry

any update on the problem?

Haven't gotten around to trying the headspace check yet but will do it this weekend. Also, looking at lowering the mag block a little, don't know if this will let the mag sit lower in the receiver since it ejects fine if there is no mag in the gun. Thanks for your guys help, will let you know.

barry

I believe this is an extractor issue.  My second guess would be mags with weak springs.

Did you check the extractor roll pin to see if it is in proper position?

If the extractor roll pin is in place and you are still having problems, punch the extractor roll pin out, and pull out the extractor.  Then, clean the back of the extractor.  Further, clean out the extractor hole in the bolt with a Q-tip.  Reassemble by putting the extractor back in and reseating the extractor roll pin.

Sometimes, crud builds up behind the extractor (especially in suppressed guns) and inhibits operation of the extractor.  More specifically, hot soft crud builds-up behind the extractor during firing that then cools into hard crud that prevents later operation.

Even if this does not work, you will have cleaner gun.

astrafire,

The extractor roll pin looks to be in proper position but will pull it out and do the cleaning as suggested along with the headspace check.

The mags are new Colt's with the plastic follower and feel like the have enough tension.

Haven't heard how bjgunner is doing with his gun as he started this thread and didn't mean to hijack it. Just having the same type of problem(s) with my gun hanksbarry

Bending the ejector is unnesssary and will cause more problems.  The slot in the bolt dictates where the ejector follows.  Bending it increases its 'width' causing the bolt to twist and drag.  The Hahn block was designed to have some floating lateral movement to compensate for different bolts and 'find' its way in the slot.  Now you have a bent ejector that is torqued within the adapter when the bolt moves.  As long as the ejector hits the casing....it will eject.  I have yet to see a bolt slot so far off to the side it misses the casing.  I have seen slots cut too shallow or with a dull tool with rounded edges.....causing it to rub the top of the ejector, rarely.

IF your bolt slot is that far off.....it's a manufacturing defect....get a new one.  If you can borrow a bolt known to work well drop it in and see what happens.

FTE issues you have sound it could be a weak.....poorly shaped.....indexed.......extractor problem.  Replace extractor and roll pin.  

The standard CAR buffer is too light......ALWAYS use the 9mm buffer, you can even use it in your 5.56mm.......it will work fine.

I'm still having the same problem.  Hand cycling works perfect, but the case still gets caught when actually firing with or without the mag inserted.  My best guess is the empty shell is hitting the edge of the ejection port and falling back in.  I haven't hand cycled with an empty casing to confirm.  
It ejected fine before I had the SD work done, so I'm not sure what the cause is.

OK try this take the upper off and take the block and a mag in the block insert it in the mag well then tighten the screw in place on the bottom of the RRA block. If that dont wrok send the upper back to RRA to have them fix it.