3/8" riser, cowitness above your irons. This way your eyes aren't confused by both sights in the exact same spot. You'll inadvertently try to line your sights up... and that slows down your holographic sight (that is best used for rapid engagements). The riser gets your dot up and out of the way so your eyes can focus on aligning the dot on your target, not dot - front sight - target.
Keep both eyes open when you shoot.
Zero at 50 yards and like Zak said, you stay pretty flat all the way out to 200. if you shoot at 300 you're gonna be low about 10 inches, which is really easy to remember...
If he's at 300 just aim at his shoulders or upper chest and you'll still hit center-mass. If you shoot center-mass because you forget to hold-off... you still hit him in the tops of his wheels or lower abdomen.
Set your sight as far back as possible. Short answer for why... it's to offset parallax. Likewise, I'd recommend using a cheek-stock-weld further back on the stock (rather than nose-to-charging-handle). Doing this will open your peripheral vision more and actually make you more accurate by increasing your sight radius.
With a close combat optic the rear sight for your sight radius is your eyes, so... increase the distance between the two and you'll receive a truer point of aim.
On an M4, I like to fully-extend the buttstock and rest my right side of my moustache on the lip at the front of the stock.
Oh, and use lithium AA's whenever you can.
ETA: As much as cheerleaders like to claim, EOTech's are not parallax-free... just "parallax-unnoticable" even Aimpoints have parallax... Yeah, I know what the website says.