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Page AR-15 » Troubleshooting
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Posted: 8/11/2011 2:39:45 PM EDT
I looked at my ar taoday and noticed that the ejection port looked uneven.  Upon closer inspection I notice the ejection port hinge pin was all the way to one side, the right.  It is completely out of the left side and I can move it around.  

I looked at a close up of another AR's upper reciever from one of the picture threads, and I know mine is screwed up because it doesn't look like the other.

I read the trouble shooting check list and saw this line:  Make sure that the ā€œCā€ clip is on the ejection port cover hinge pin and that the ejection port cover spring is properly installed.
Could that be the problem?  What exactly is a "C" clip?  
For the life of me I can't find my copy of  "The Complete AR-15 Assembly Guide" by Walt Kuleck.  Tore the house apart searching for that book.

Here is a crappy pic.



Link Posted: 8/11/2011 2:54:16 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 3:08:30 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
http://www.biggerhammer.net/ar15/uppers/a2_bushmaster.jpg

Right above 5 on the ejection pin, there is a C clip that keeps the pin from coming out the back side (silver piece on your pin now forward of the front ear).  What should keep it from walking forward is the right tip of the pin against the Delta (about a 1/8" movement of the C clip off the ear, and in your case, the pin being able to move much forward than this).

Somehow on your unit, the back face of the delta  is to far forward, so the quick fix is to just install an additional C clip on the left hand side as well.  Granted cutting in the new needed groove in the pin is quick with a lathe, you can do the same thing with a drill and pair of wire cutters just as fast.  

Push the pin backwards toward the butt stock until the front C clip is snug up against  the front port tab/ear, mark the back side of the pin on the back side of the other tab/pin ear,


Then via removing the front C clip, remove the pin, chuck the cover pin up in a drill, then while spinning the pin in a drill, slightly clamp down on the pin at the mark you mad to add in another C pin groove to the pin. From there, reinstall the pin with spring and ejection cover, then snap in old and new C clips on both outer sides of the ears to hold the pin in place.


As for why the delta nut is not holding the pin from going too forward, don't have a clue (guessing that you have a float tube that is not seating back as far as needed towards the ejection port to all it to retain the pin correctly), but the double C clip trick is often needed on left hand receivers, so just carrying this fix over to your since it solves the problem quickly/permanently.


Thanks for the info.  
Yes I have a La Rue free float rail installed and there is a lot of room for it to walk forward.
I don't have a lathe and am not handy at all. I think I'll try making the groove with wire cutters.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 3:15:29 PM EDT
[#3]
Is the "C" clip also known as the Ejection Port Cover Hinge Pin SNAP RING?
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 3:35:53 PM EDT
[#4]
If you know how to remove the pin from the rear and reinstall it it is possible just to flare the end of the pin a little so it will not go all the way through the hole. It will always have to be removed from the rear after you flare it but the pin is cheap to replace later if needed.
If you do not know how to remove it towards the rear it is best not to try as you can scratch the upper and have a difficult time reinstalling the pin, spring, and cover.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 4:46:32 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
If you know how to remove the pin from the rear and reinstall it it is possible just to flare the end of the pin a little so it will not go all the way through the hole. It will always have to be removed from the rear after you flare it but the pin is cheap to replace later if needed.
If you do not know how to remove it towards the rear it is best not to try as you can scratch the upper and have a difficult time reinstalling the pin, spring, and cover.


I don't know how to remove the pin.  I would have to do it from the rear cause I definitely don't want to mess with the free float rails.
How do you "flare" the end of the pin?  
For me to remove the pin, how do I and how hard is it to get the original "C" ring off the pin?
Thank for bearing with me.  I'm not handy at all.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 4:48:36 PM EDT
[#6]
Call up Larue,and ask them how they overcome this issue when using their rail.
Link Posted: 8/11/2011 4:52:14 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Call up Larue,and ask them how they overcome this issue when using their rail.


+1. Best suggestion yet


Normally the pin should be stopped from moving to far forward on a standard AR by the back edge of the barrel nut.

Link Posted: 8/12/2011 7:42:18 PM EDT
[#8]
When I have this problem I install a grove and c clip on the back side of the pin also so youll have two c clips one close to the barrel and one close to the brass deflector
Link Posted: 8/13/2011 8:30:14 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
When I have this problem I install a grove and c clip on the back side of the pin also so youll have two c clips one close to the barrel and one close to the brass deflector


I think that is ultimately what I'm going to.  The only hard part for me is installing the groove.
Link Posted: 8/13/2011 10:48:12 AM EDT
[#10]
Its not hard to fatten the end that does not have the groove a little to keep it from going through. I tried it on a pin to see if it would work. I stuck a pin long ways in a smooth jawed vise with about a 1/4" of the not grooved end sticking out and gave it about 30 light wacks with  a regular hammer and it fatten it enough it would not go through the back hole when I installed it in an upper.

You might could just slip a rubber O ring or piece of rubber tubing on the end to keep it from going through . A piece of heat shrink tubing shrunk on it might work also and the pin would not have to be removed.
Link Posted: 8/14/2011 5:24:36 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Its not hard to fatten the end that does not have the groove a little to keep it from going through. I tried it on a pin to see if it would work. I stuck a pin long ways in a smooth jawed vise with about a 1/4" of the not grooved end sticking out and gave it about 30 light wacks with  a regular hammer and it fatten it enough it would not go through the back hole when I installed it in an upper.

You might could just slip a rubber O ring or piece of rubber tubing on the end to keep it from going through . A piece of heat shrink tubing shrunk on it might work also and the pin would not have to be removed.


That's not a bad idea.  Thanks for all the advice.
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