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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 8/16/2003 9:45:18 AM EST
Does anybody here use this stuff? I was toying with the idea of making up a batch (without the lanolin, I think) to throw my bolt carrier group in. It is rumored that the Cylinder & Slide "Dunk-kit" contains Ed's Red or something very close.

Does it eat any of the plastic parts on an AR? My mag release button, trigger guard and obviously the stock are all "non-metalic." Any problems if you are a bit careless and some gets on these parts?

How about an EOTech/Bushnell holosight, any trouble there?

Tnx for all advice.
Link Posted: 8/16/2003 11:33:03 AM EST
I used the ED's red for a few years on my C&R's mostly as a cosmoline remover and for soaking pitted barrels. It works pretty good,but I dont feel that it out performs Hoppe's #9 as a bore cleaner.It is slightly cheaper though. If your going to use the Ed's red around plastic I would leave the acetone out of the mix as recommended in the directions. I also used turpentine rather than the mineral spirits. Raymond
Link Posted: 8/16/2003 12:11:19 PM EST
Echo what Blankwaffe said. IMHO nothing special about it. Hoppes works just as well if not better. Will eat plastic if acetone is to high. The only thing I really found it good for was soaking metal parts overnight. It was O.K for this, but again, nothing special.
Link Posted: 8/16/2003 1:04:04 PM EST
Based on what you two are saying I say "To hell with it!" It doesn't seem like it is really worth the trouble, as long as there are commercial products available which are as good or better. I guess since 1991 more and better things have appeared, so we don't have to use "home brew" stuff as often. Thanks ever so much, guys. Cheers!
Link Posted: 8/18/2003 7:56:30 AM EST
Ed's Red is great for guns that are really filthy, and require lots of solvent. The stuff is really pretty cheap. Mainly the attraction is for armorers or C&R collectors, who may buy 5 old cosmolene soaked rifles at a time. It isn't going to win any awards for cleaning, lubrication, or protectant, but it does all three well enough that many folks don't see a need for more specialized products. I've used it on everything at one time or another, and it doesn't really attack wood finishes or industrial polymer (ie Glock frames) if used as intended, though I wouldn't want to let it soak in for hours or days. Frankly now I use CLP for 70% of my gun cleaning duties, it is a far better protectant than E.R. There are times when I need the metal completely degreased, for which Slip 2000's 725 gun degreaser does a good job, and to really clean out the bore I use Sweet's 7.62 copper solvent, or Hoppe's Benchrest. But CLP is a good staple.
Link Posted: 8/23/2003 10:40:44 PM EST
put it an a spray bottle and spritz it into your AR upper.... and just watch all the carbon crud come running out! i usually mix it without the Acetone, but with the Mineral Spirits and Kero. no problems with plastic... i even store it in a plastic oil bottle, same bottle for over 5 years.
Link Posted: 8/24/2003 2:56:25 AM EST
I think it has good application for full auto shooters and you high volume AR-15'ers who pump a lot of rounds out of the rifle. seems to break up and loosen all the crud in the upper receiver areas as well as the barrel, etc. my .02...
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