Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 1/20/2006 5:00:37 AM EDT
I have been told I should have used it when installing my collapsible stock. I called Bushmaster. They only use it on the barrel threads. They do not use it on the buffer tube because it does not see significant heat.

Should I use it?
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 5:02:43 AM EDT
No.



- rem
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 5:06:03 AM EDT
Nope.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 5:22:03 AM EDT
only use that stuff on the barrel threads and install my buffer tubes dry
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 5:36:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/20/2006 5:36:51 AM EDT by Forward_Assist]
If you do it will make an unnecessary mess. You can use grease sparingly on the spring and it will give you a noticeable smoothness and stop the twang. The mill spec crowd will warn you against it but if used sparingly, it does no harm. The mill spec issue is if the rifle was submerged, an excessive amount of grease could trap water from draining out the drain hole. Others have said the grease attracts dirt and grit and will cause wear, not true. I use super lube on the springs in all my match rifles and thousands of rounds later have never seen wear. Try it for your self and see. Just don't overdo it as the carrier passes inside the tube and will pick up excessive grease on it.

The Moly is overkill here and will make a mess.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 5:46:48 AM EDT
Get an Enidine or MGI buffer
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 7:04:13 AM EDT
Just to clarify, I was refering to moly lube on the buffer tube threads. Not the spring. I appreciate all the responses so far. It looks like moly lube on the tube threads is not necessary.

I was told the aluminum to steel interface on the threads could seize and be hard to remove after several years. This makes sense for areas that see heat. But, the buffer does not.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 7:07:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By CopM4:
Get an Enidine or MGI buffer




and this pertains to the thread how?
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 7:09:18 AM EDT
I just put a couple drops of oil on the threads. I only use anti seize on my suppressor threads due to the heat. The buffer tube threads are not going to see any heating.

Link Posted: 1/20/2006 7:10:37 AM EDT
if you feel the need why not just put a light layer of it on the beginning threads of the buffer tube? i personally have not seen any problems with not using any.

with greasing the spring i wouldnt, attracts dirt if you actually use your rifle for other than paper punching or shoot in a dusty area.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 7:13:23 AM EDT

Originally Posted By eklikwhoa:

Originally Posted By CopM4:
Get an Enidine or MGI buffer




and this pertains to the thread how?



Exactly what I was just wondering!!
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 7:32:08 AM EDT
I use a NGL NO. 2 grease any will work mine is just pl-10. If you have the molly grease go and use it on the threads.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 7:42:37 AM EDT
I guess I am the exception here because I have always used a small dab of anti-seize on my receiver extentions.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 7:48:35 AM EDT

Originally Posted By dave3006:
Should I use it?



Yes, provdining it's a RIFLE receiver extension.

At least the worlds largest (and oldest) user of the AR-15 seems to think so (the US Army, oh and the USMC and the USAF).

Please consult TM9-1005-319-23&P on Page 3-81

BTW I have tried to remove receiver extensions that were not lubricated - sometimes they get really locked and can be near impossible to remove w/o damage to the receiver extension.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 8:14:31 AM EDT
problem with most anti-seize is that a lot of then can be 50% graphite. graphite has no place near Al parts.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 8:43:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/20/2006 8:51:28 AM EDT by MonkeyGrip]
I used it. A small amount, per the Military manual. I then used loctite on the castle nut. I'm stretching here since it's been a long time since I did it but I believe I found it in the Military manual for the collapsable stock where it's called out. You might want to search the manual for it to make sure it's called for for the collapsable stock carbine, but I seem to recall that it was and I followed those pages. The manual is on this forum somewhere.

I was just careful to keep it off the part of the threads where I wanted the loctite to setup since I did not stake, which means I think I put it on the receiver and not the tube threads or at least only on the forward threads to keep the rear threads clean for the loctite.

For those that are responding about putting it inside your tube or on the buffer , get a clue. How many times do I see idiots ranting about something here even though they've missed the whole issue.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 3:40:45 PM EDT
I used it on all of mine so far. Sparingly, so as not to make a mess. Just like the manual says.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 6:51:45 PM EDT
I don't use antiseize, but I do lube the threads with CLP before I install the receiver extension.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 8:29:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/20/2006 8:31:20 PM EDT by A_Free_Man]
Do not use anything containing graphite or powdered aluminum, copper, or zinc (NeverSeize or other copper or silver colored grease) on your AR-15. That stuff is made for steel to steel contact. If used for steel to aluminum (such as barrel nut) it will drive the metal particles into the soft aluminum. It is quite gritty and will not allow smooth alignment of the barrel nut.

A MolyDisulfide grease (usually brown or gray in color) is good for the barrel nut threads, but not necessary. Ordinary grease will work fine there. I use wheel bearing grease for installing barrels.

For the buffer tube there is a greater problem of them coming loose during ordinary use than there is of removing them after years of use.

I assemble them dry, both the receiver and the extension (which I also call a "buffer tube"). I put one drop of BLUE (removable) or Purple ("service removable") LockTite on the thread where it screws into the receiver, and one drop where the "castle nut" will tighten. I tighten by hand with the regular little CAR stock wrench. No other "staking" is done. I have not had one come apart in use, and I have not had trouble removing one years later.
Link Posted: 1/21/2006 3:33:05 PM EDT
Not about the buffer but about using moly-type anti-seize on trigger mechanism. The instructions for JP springs state to use a moly-type anti-seize grease. Where can I find some? I went to automotvie and gunshops everywhere. No one knew what I was talking about. From JP it cost only $3.99 for 1 oz., but $7.50 to ship! I have copper-based anti-seize for spark plugs but was leery on using it.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 5:23:04 PM EDT
NO, do NOT use the copper filled anti-seize on your trigger unless you want a gritty trigger.

This is easy... get a can of WHEEL BEARING grease and read the label. There you go.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 5:27:11 PM EDT

Originally Posted By dave3006:
I have been told I should have used it when installing my collapsible stock. I called Bushmaster. They only use it on the barrel threads. They do not use it on the buffer tube because it does not see significant heat.

Should I use it?


NO!
Top Top