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Posted: 6/15/2016 3:45:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: PursuitSS]
There are SEVERAL members here with a hell of a lot of knowledge on machining and machinery.
I know they have been a tremendous help to me, I first thought about listing them but I don't want to miss anyone. |
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Posted: 6/15/2016 3:53:00 PM EDT
[#1]
I have learned from a lot of guys on here and have now completed quite a bit of stuff on my equipment, so I will be happy to help anyone I can with their questions.
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Posted: 6/15/2016 7:10:41 PM EDT
[#2]
Same here. I'm around fairly regularly and reply in most of the 80% threads.
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Posted: 6/15/2016 8:42:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: AFCarbon15]
[#3]
I'm here WAY too much! Just ask my wallet. I'm happy to contribute. I truly enjoy it. I put out a lot of info and pics just hoping to repay a little of what I've learned from others. While they may not be sixtysixdeuce grade, I hope my projects inspire somebody!
ETA: it's been linked before, but so far this is my best contribution to offer 80% Milling Info |
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Posted: 6/15/2016 9:17:14 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AFCarbon15:
I'm here WAY too much! Just ask my wallet. I'm happy to contribute. I truly enjoy it. I put out a lot of info and pics just hoping to repay a little of what I've learned from others. While they may not be sixtysixdeuce grade, I hope my projects inspire somebody! ETA: it's been lineed before, but so far this is my best contribution to offer 80% Milling Info Skip me and ask this guy, I have read and learned from every single thread he has posted, this guy is good! |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/16/2016 12:08:19 PM EDT
[#5]
I've learned a lot from people on this forum! Lots of great technical info!
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/16/2016 2:35:10 PM EDT
[#6]
Want to thank you guys in advance for the questions I'll have for my upcoming build.
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Posted: 6/16/2016 5:47:41 PM EDT
[#7]
I'll be keeping an eye on this. Got a harbor freight mini mill a while back and need to find a little more tooling before I start on my 80's. Still need a vise that is affordable, some kind of edge finder, and it sounds like a longer end mill. I want to do a DRO, but I'm not sure I can squeeze it into my hobby budget currently.
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Posted: 6/16/2016 9:14:43 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Pudwak:
I'll be keeping an eye on this. Got a harbor freight mini mill a while back and need to find a little more tooling before I start on my 80's. Still need a vise that is affordable, some kind of edge finder, and it sounds like a longer end mill. I want to do a DRO, but I'm not sure I can squeeze it into my hobby budget currently. I picked up a set of HF end mills and for doing aluminum, they work fine, after doing several now, they still don't show any wear, every once in a while you can pick them up with the 20% coupon for about $59. Yes, they are inexpensive, yes, they are made in China but for working on aluminum they work fine to start out with. I have picked up some other ones from a couple of different places that are much higher quality, but I have not found doing the lowers that I really need them, I use them when I am doing steel items, I have the Grizzly model that is virtually the same as the HF mill. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-titanium-nitrade-coated-end-mill-set-5947.html |
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Posted: 6/16/2016 10:24:54 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaveP1: I picked up a set of HF end mills and for doing aluminum, they work fine, after doing several now, they still don't show any wear, every once in a while you can pick them up with the 20% coupon for about $59. Yes, they are inexpensive, yes, they are made in China but for working on aluminum they work fine to start out with. I have picked up some other ones from a couple of different places that are much higher quality, but I have not found doing the lowers that I really need them, I use them when I am doing steel items, I have the Grizzly model that is virtually the same as the HF mill. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-titanium-nitrade-coated-end-mill-set-5947.html Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaveP1: Originally Posted By Pudwak: I'll be keeping an eye on this. Got a harbor freight mini mill a while back and need to find a little more tooling before I start on my 80's. Still need a vise that is affordable, some kind of edge finder, and it sounds like a longer end mill. I want to do a DRO, but I'm not sure I can squeeze it into my hobby budget currently. I picked up a set of HF end mills and for doing aluminum, they work fine, after doing several now, they still don't show any wear, every once in a while you can pick them up with the 20% coupon for about $59. Yes, they are inexpensive, yes, they are made in China but for working on aluminum they work fine to start out with. I have picked up some other ones from a couple of different places that are much higher quality, but I have not found doing the lowers that I really need them, I use them when I am doing steel items, I have the Grizzly model that is virtually the same as the HF mill. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-titanium-nitrade-coated-end-mill-set-5947.html ....Or just get a coupon from HFQPDB.com. Only suckers pay full price at HF. |
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Posted: 6/16/2016 11:50:00 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By K1rodeoboater:
....Or just get a coupon from HFQPDB.com. Only suckers pay full price at HF. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By K1rodeoboater:
Originally Posted By DaveP1:
Originally Posted By Pudwak:
I'll be keeping an eye on this. Got a harbor freight mini mill a while back and need to find a little more tooling before I start on my 80's. Still need a vise that is affordable, some kind of edge finder, and it sounds like a longer end mill. I want to do a DRO, but I'm not sure I can squeeze it into my hobby budget currently. I picked up a set of HF end mills and for doing aluminum, they work fine, after doing several now, they still don't show any wear, every once in a while you can pick them up with the 20% coupon for about $59. Yes, they are inexpensive, yes, they are made in China but for working on aluminum they work fine to start out with. I have picked up some other ones from a couple of different places that are much higher quality, but I have not found doing the lowers that I really need them, I use them when I am doing steel items, I have the Grizzly model that is virtually the same as the HF mill. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-titanium-nitrade-coated-end-mill-set-5947.html ....Or just get a coupon from HFQPDB.com. Only suckers pay full price at HF. $59.00 is not full price that is $20.00 off full price, I don't pay full price for anything at HF, I just get their coupons in the mail every month in their sale book, you just have to enter the coupon code and you get the discount and most of the time they ship things for $6.99 through Fed Ex, no matter how much you buy, unless it is an oversized or extra weight product, like mills, lathes, table saws, etc. If you keep an eye out, every once in a while they will have a super coupon that gives you 25% off |
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Posted: 6/17/2016 12:01:07 AM EDT
[#11]
OST
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/17/2016 12:05:34 AM EDT
[#12]
Skip HF or Grizzly end mills... they are junk unless properly sharpened (no clue how to do that either).
I got a set of Grizzly end mills that would leave a rough finish in aluminum, and would generally struggle in the cut anyhow. Then I tried some US or Japan made carbide cutters, night and day difference. I also got some HSS cutters made in Korea, good quality. In fact one came with the Spectre 80 kit, I used it to mill aluminum for a 80% lower to good effect. It still cuts as well as carbide, maybe won't last as long but it's cheap. Just buy the cutters you need, or buy those cheap HF/Grizzly cutters and figure out a way to hone them... I did score a few 1" HSS end mills from the UT Austin's machine shop... it was broken at the shank but I used it in my ER collet and it works good as new. I sharpen them by rubbing the flutes on a diamond sharpening stone. Large end mills are easier to sharpen. |
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Posted: 6/17/2016 12:46:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: DaveP1]
[#13]
One thing I am looking for is a set of external jaws for my HF 7x10 mini mill, I will be darned if I can find them, the set I had some how disappeared so I need to pick up a new set, anybody know what other bands will interchange with the HF lathes?
That said, the HF and the Grizzly end mills can be hit or miss, if you pick up HF end mills open the package and check them, I had to go through 4 different boxes to find ones that felt sharp, in fact the set I picked up ended up cutting the tip of my finger! |
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Posted: 6/17/2016 12:50:55 AM EDT
[#14]
How difficult is it to macine an 80% lower with a lathe? I have a 12x36 lathe, I don't have a mill.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/17/2016 1:48:01 AM EDT
[#15]
You can chuck an end mill into the chuck, and clamp your lower into the cross slide and machine it that way.
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ARM
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Posted: 6/17/2016 3:01:34 AM EDT
[#16]
I started when the tannery cast lowers. Finished it with an 80 dollar Chinese drill press and a dremel. Those were the days.
I had no vise for holding it so my buddy would hold it down while I drilled the holes. 15 years later, I have my own mill and lathe. Make what I want when I want. If there's one place Id suggest you spend more time on than anything else, it's the forums at homegunsmith.com |
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Posted: 6/17/2016 9:05:02 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaveP1:
I picked up a set of HF end mills and for doing aluminum, they work fine, after doing several now, they still don't show any wear, every once in a while you can pick them up with the 20% coupon for about $59. Yes, they are inexpensive, yes, they are made in China but for working on aluminum they work fine to start out with. I have picked up some other ones from a couple of different places that are much higher quality, but I have not found doing the lowers that I really need them, I use them when I am doing steel items, I have the Grizzly model that is virtually the same as the HF mill. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-titanium-nitrade-coated-end-mill-set-5947.html Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaveP1:
Originally Posted By Pudwak:
I'll be keeping an eye on this. Got a harbor freight mini mill a while back and need to find a little more tooling before I start on my 80's. Still need a vise that is affordable, some kind of edge finder, and it sounds like a longer end mill. I want to do a DRO, but I'm not sure I can squeeze it into my hobby budget currently. I picked up a set of HF end mills and for doing aluminum, they work fine, after doing several now, they still don't show any wear, every once in a while you can pick them up with the 20% coupon for about $59. Yes, they are inexpensive, yes, they are made in China but for working on aluminum they work fine to start out with. I have picked up some other ones from a couple of different places that are much higher quality, but I have not found doing the lowers that I really need them, I use them when I am doing steel items, I have the Grizzly model that is virtually the same as the HF mill. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-titanium-nitrade-coated-end-mill-set-5947.html I picked up the HF end mills to start out. I haven't measured them yet so maybe they will be long enough. I figured as they wore out I would replace them with better ones. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/17/2016 10:04:57 AM EDT
[#18]
I remember the Tannery cast lowers... They were expensive and required expensive tooling (the buffer tube tap for example costs no less than 65 dollars) and it really put me off doing it. I actually like the new ATF requirement, because you can still do it with a drill press, and you don't need expensive tooling except for a 5/32" bit and a 3/8" bit. I remember the Tannery jigs were more complex and expensive too (if I remember correctly it was over 300 dollars for the jig, they had a rental but you waited years to rent one).
What happened to Tannery Shop? |
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Posted: 6/17/2016 10:13:15 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By taiwanluthiers: What happened to Tannery Shop? |
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Posted: 6/17/2016 10:53:12 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By taiwanluthiers:
You can chuck an end mill into the chuck, and clamp your lower into the cross slide and machine it that way. I've been thinking about that. Would have to make a special jig to hold receiver I think. Not much vertical control on a cross-slide. I keep thinking I'd like to have one of the old Palmgren milling fixtures if it could be set up on a g4003 lathe. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/17/2016 11:39:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: taiwanluthiers]
[#21]
I don't know, you would need a milling attachment. A lathe isn't really the best tool for milling anyhow.
So why did the Tannery Shop close down? ATF raids? |
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Posted: 6/17/2016 12:39:37 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By taiwanluthiers: So why did the Tannery Shop close down? ATF raids? No, I know the owner was guard or reserves and deployed in 2003...that's the last I heard of them. When I went to find them in 2010 they were gone |
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Posted: 6/17/2016 12:50:29 PM EDT
[#23]
I've milled a couple of cast lowers. Both seemed like junk. In consistent hardness throughout, but very soft over all.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/17/2016 1:00:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Back then I remember Tannery Shop had nearly total monopoly on the 80% market... Now it seems like everyone and their dog sells 80% lowers. Their cast lower were also the only option and frankly they were junk, which I think dissuaded people from doing 80% lowers since forged lower could be bought cheaper than the 80% cast lower back then. That home gunsmithing forum had a thing about doing 0% forgings and at the time that was the only way to get a homemade forged lower.
I'm really glad that things are much better today. By the way has anyone done 10/22 receivers? |
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Posted: 6/17/2016 1:26:43 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AFCarbon15:
I've milled a couple of cast lowers. Both seemed like junk. In consistent hardness throughout, but very soft over all. Yeah, you can't cast 7075 or 6061. IIRC The Tannery Shop used A356 alloy. There is at least one company selling a cast "80%" lower today.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/17/2016 3:54:08 PM EDT
[#26]
I hope he didn't become a casulty of war...
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Posted: 6/21/2016 1:27:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: AFCarbon15]
[#27]
In case any of you have extra $ and want to start an 80% Glock project.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/21/2016 3:11:44 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AFCarbon15:
In case any of you have extra $ and want to start an 80% Glock project. I already did one and I have a 2nd Polymer 80 Spectre PF940 frame waiting to be finished. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/21/2016 4:24:16 PM EDT
[#29]
I finished one, got it during the preorder.
It works great, maybe not all that accurate (probably more me than the gun) but it won't jam unless you limp wrist it. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/21/2016 5:02:01 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By taiwanluthiers:
I finished one, got it during the preorder. It works great, maybe not all that accurate (probably more me than the gun) but it won't jam unless you limp wrist it. What slide and barrel did you use? How does the accuracy compare to a stock Glock? |
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Posted: 6/21/2016 6:01:11 PM EDT
[#31]
One issue I've noticed with the Spectre frame is you drill the pin holes with a U.S, Standard size but the original pins are metric. This results in WAY too tight of pins.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/21/2016 6:12:45 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PursuitSS:
One issue I've noticed with the Spectre frame is you drill the pin holes with a U.S, Standard size but the original pins are metric. This results in WAY too tight of pins. I used the bits that were included. All my major drill bit sets are SAE, I don't think I have very many metric bits. |
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Posted: 6/21/2016 6:25:11 PM EDT
[#33]
I have two sets of bits, they are both 129 piece kits, one is metric and one is SAE..
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/21/2016 6:44:59 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaveP1:
I have two sets of bits, they are both 129 piece kits, one is metric and one is SAE.. I never bought the metric sets I guess because most of my stuff is SAE. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/21/2016 10:11:06 PM EDT
[#35]
I used stock glock parts, nothing special. The trigger is actually pretty good, not too much weight but not hair trigger either. It's not meant to be accurate as long as it's accurate enough to hit what I'm aiming at, it's supposed to be reliable.
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Posted: 6/21/2016 10:42:28 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
I never bought the metric sets I guess because most of my stuff is SAE. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Originally Posted By DaveP1:
I have two sets of bits, they are both 129 piece kits, one is metric and one is SAE.. I never bought the metric sets I guess because most of my stuff is SAE. Normally these days, when I have to pick up tools I always buy the SAE and the metric, I live to far away from town and any tool stores to want to keep running back and forth all the time, has saved my rear on numerous jobs! |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/21/2016 10:44:59 PM EDT
[#37]
Yes I can attest the pins are a VERY tight fit on the 80% glocks. I do not know if this is intentional. I had to press it in with my milling machine.
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Posted: 6/21/2016 10:59:48 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
I already did one and I have a 2nd Polymer 80 Spectre PF940 frame waiting to be finished. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Originally Posted By AFCarbon15:
In case any of you have extra $ and want to start an 80% Glock project. I already did one and I have a 2nd Polymer 80 Spectre PF940 frame waiting to be finished.  . I'd love to do one myself...
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Posted: 6/21/2016 11:02:35 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AFCarbon15:
In case any of you have extra $ and want to start an 80% Glock project. Anyone know of an anodized forged 9mm Glock AR 80%? I'm not having any luck... |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 5:54:22 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RIP-Yataski:
Anyone know of an anodized forged 9mm Glock AR 80%? I'm not having any luck... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RIP-Yataski:
Originally Posted By AFCarbon15:
In case any of you have extra $ and want to start an 80% Glock project. Anyone know of an anodized forged 9mm Glock AR 80%? I'm not having any luck... I ordered one of the raw ones from Daytona tactical. I haven't seen any anodized, but I haven't really been looking either. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 5:57:22 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DaveP1:
One thing I am looking for is a set of external jaws for my HF 7x10 mini mill, I will be darned if I can find them, the set I had some how disappeared so I need to pick up a new set, anybody know what other bands will interchange with the HF lathes?
That said, the HF and the Grizzly end mills can be hit or miss, if you pick up HF end mills open the package and check them, I had to go through 4 different boxes to find ones that felt sharp, in fact the set I picked up ended up cutting the tip of my finger! I think I'm going to sell my 7x10, if I forget to give the new owner the second set of jaws I'll let you know. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:47:53 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By taiwanluthiers:
I used stock glock parts, nothing special. The trigger is actually pretty good, not too much weight but not hair trigger either. It's not meant to be accurate as long as it's accurate enough to hit what I'm aiming at, it's supposed to be reliable. My Spectre doesn't have a single factory Glock part in it. All the parts other than the Spectre kit came from Lone Wolf Distributors. I have their upgraded trigger. transfer bar & firing pin spring, firing pin, extended takedown, extended mag release, extended slide lock, Lone Wolf 40/357 slide (22/31 size) with enlarged ejection port and forward serrations, stainless guide rod & spring set and their .357 Sig barrel. I even have a couple of 3rd party mags... |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/23/2016 12:46:36 AM EDT
[#43]
I'm not trying to build an expensive gun, just a service weapon. It's a glock. If it digests ammo without stoppage I'm good.
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Posted: 6/23/2016 4:02:21 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Pudwak:
I think I'm going to sell my 7x10, if I forget to give the new owner the second set of jaws I'll let you know. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Pudwak:
Originally Posted By DaveP1:
One thing I am looking for is a set of external jaws for my HF 7x10 mini mill, I will be darned if I can find them, the set I had some how disappeared so I need to pick up a new set, anybody know what other bands will interchange with the HF lathes?
That said, the HF and the Grizzly end mills can be hit or miss, if you pick up HF end mills open the package and check them, I had to go through 4 different boxes to find ones that felt sharp, in fact the set I picked up ended up cutting the tip of my finger! I think I'm going to sell my 7x10, if I forget to give the new owner the second set of jaws I'll let you know. Well if you do, please let me know! |
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Posted: 6/23/2016 7:59:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: AFCarbon15]
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
My Spectre doesn't have a single factory Glock part in it. All the parts other than the Spectre kit came from Lone Wolf Distributors. I have their upgraded trigger. transfer bar & firing pin spring, firing pin, extended takedown, extended mag release, extended slide lock, Lone Wolf 40/357 slide (22/31 size) with enlarged ejection port and forward serrations, stainless guide rod & spring set and their .357 Sig barrel. I even have a couple of 3rd party mags... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Originally Posted By taiwanluthiers:
I used stock glock parts, nothing special. The trigger is actually pretty good, not too much weight but not hair trigger either. It's not meant to be accurate as long as it's accurate enough to hit what I'm aiming at, it's supposed to be reliable. My Spectre doesn't have a single factory Glock part in it. All the parts other than the Spectre kit came from Lone Wolf Distributors. I have their upgraded trigger. transfer bar & firing pin spring, firing pin, extended takedown, extended mag release, extended slide lock, Lone Wolf 40/357 slide (22/31 size) with enlarged ejection port and forward serrations, stainless guide rod & spring set and their .357 Sig barrel. I even have a couple of 3rd party mags... I know prices can vary, but if you don't mind me asking, how much do you have wrapped up in a package like that? I thought about building a complete lower with aftermarket parts, then just swapping my OEM G17 slide to it. (For now) ETA: I've already model the OEM frame, but like the idea of starting a little "pre" modded. Next time I am cerakoting something else, I'm going to mill forward slide serrations. |
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USA
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Posted: 6/23/2016 8:00:28 AM EDT
[#46]
Anyone who is doing more than 1 80% receiver needs a blasting cabinet.
The reason I say more than 1 receiver is that those same people will be interested in refinishing other AR's, pistols, etc. A blasting cabinet is indispensable for making the inside of your receiver look good after milling (a minor consideration), but there are so many things you'll use it for (rusty tools, prepping metal for paint, etc.) that you'll wonder why you never had one before. I have the HF version, and make sure you silicone caulk it when you assemble it (it leaks dust otherwise). Really great tool to have. G. P.S. Put casters/wheels on it when you assemble it. Very worth the effort so you can move it around |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/23/2016 11:00:37 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AFCarbon15:
I know prices can vary, but if you don't mind me asking, how much do you have wrapped up in a package like that? I thought about building a complete lower with aftermarket parts, then just swapping my OEM G17 slide to it. (For now) ETA: I've already model the OEM frame, but like the idea of starting a little "pre" modded. Next time I am cerakoting something else, I'm going to mill forward slide serrations. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AFCarbon15:
Originally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Originally Posted By taiwanluthiers:
I used stock glock parts, nothing special. The trigger is actually pretty good, not too much weight but not hair trigger either. It's not meant to be accurate as long as it's accurate enough to hit what I'm aiming at, it's supposed to be reliable. My Spectre doesn't have a single factory Glock part in it. All the parts other than the Spectre kit came from Lone Wolf Distributors. I have their upgraded trigger. transfer bar & firing pin spring, firing pin, extended takedown, extended mag release, extended slide lock, Lone Wolf 40/357 slide (22/31 size) with enlarged ejection port and forward serrations, stainless guide rod & spring set and their .357 Sig barrel. I even have a couple of 3rd party mags... I know prices can vary, but if you don't mind me asking, how much do you have wrapped up in a package like that? I thought about building a complete lower with aftermarket parts, then just swapping my OEM G17 slide to it. (For now) ETA: I've already model the OEM frame, but like the idea of starting a little "pre" modded. Next time I am cerakoting something else, I'm going to mill forward slide serrations. Doing 80% thinking you are going to save money is pretty much a fallacy most of the time... I've probably got around $725 into it, but on the other hand, It is completely upgraded. If someone bought a factory Glock 31 which typically sell new in the $500-$550 range and then did everything to it that is on this one they'd probably have more in it. |
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Posted: 6/23/2016 11:15:27 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SoftwareJanitor:
Doing 80% thinking you are going to save money is pretty much a fallacy most of the time... I've probably got around $725 into it, but on the other hand, It is completely upgraded. If someone bought a factory Glock 31 which typically sell new in the $500-$550 range and then did everything to it that is on this one they'd probably have more in it. Oh I am well aware of the fictitious cost saving of 80%'ers. I just haven't gone all out modifying my glock with aftermarket parts. Hadn't even priced many options. Just curious where you landed $ wise. $700-800 is completely reasonable. If you told me $1200, I'd sooner stick with what I have. Somebody should start a thread on the glock frame. I'd like to see more real world experience with it. Like, it doesn't have steel slide rails right? Seems crazy. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/23/2016 12:07:11 PM EDT
[#49]
The Polymer80's frame has a long locking block that provides steel rails, the back part is plastic but it doesn't seem to affect function at all.
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Posted: 6/23/2016 1:46:57 PM EDT
[#50]
I haven't had a chance to shoot mine yet, but as was pointed out the front rails are steel and LONG!
In addition, the locking block is better secured than a factory Glock unit. I was very concerned about the rear plastic rails until I looked over their design. There are people reporting over 2,000 rounds through theirs. I don't care for the feel of the frame but that being said I probably will get at least one more. I wish they had one for the baby Glocks (26, 27, 33) |
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